Yet another log splitter build question thread...

   / Yet another log splitter build question thread... #1  

Jeff K

New member
Joined
Jun 12, 2012
Messages
9
Location
Polk City, Fl
Tractor
Cub GT 1554
I'm working on collecting the parts to build a splitter. I have some design questions.

I currently have a
6' piece of 12" x 6.6" (12-26) wide flange beam
4' of 6" x 8" box tube I was thinking about using for an axle/oil tank
a New 2 stage 16 gpm HALDEX BARNES pump
9 hp B&S Vanguard motor

Still need a
4" x 24" 2" rod cylinder
Control valves

Lots more steel

Questions

Pros and cons of wedge on the ram vs wedge on the beam?

Living in Florida heat, how much oil reserve is enough?

I'll have more questions I'm sure...
 
   / Yet another log splitter build question thread... #2  
I have had both types of wedges on splitters and much prefer the wedge on the ram. I only split dry oak and sometimes the knots do not split completely and having the wedge on the ram allows it to pull the partly split chunk free without any effort on my part. my 2 cents worth .
 
   / Yet another log splitter build question thread... #3  
If I'm not mistaken, the standard for the oil resevoir is double the running gpm.
 
   / Yet another log splitter build question thread... #4  
With a 16 gpm pump commercial splitter manufacturers use a 8- 10 gallon reservoir. What is more important than tank capacity is the overall design of the hydraulic system. Heat in a hydraulic splitter is mainly caused by friction in the hoses and restriction in the fittings. The I.D. of hydraulic fittings varies greatly with brand and fitting type, often only half the diameter.
 
   / Yet another log splitter build question thread... #5  
I've made both, pros of ram wedge-don't have to chase big chunks and bring them back for another split, grab the piece as it splits and toss it directly into pickup bed or tractor bucket, can leave splitter hitched to pickup or tractor without piling up in front of splitter, stuck pieces easier to get off, easier to mount a lift cradle and use it as a staging area. Cons- more power needed, in gnarly wood it has to force it's way through the grain. A 5 inch cylinder works a lot better. I'm going to stick with the ram wedge.
 
   / Yet another log splitter build question thread... #6  
I think you might run short of Hbeam considering your chosen length of cylinder. A 24" stroke cylinder retracted length is about 35inches. Add to that your stroke, you are at 59inches. You will need room on the hbeam to make mounting points for cylinder at the rear and also more room for either the wedge or the pusher block, depending on which design you go with. If the wedge is 6" long, you are now at 65 inches, not counting the thickness of the material. That leaves you about 7inches to play with. You will have to design your mounting points for the cylinder carefully or you could end up running short of Hbeam. Since you havent found a cylinder yet, you might look for one with trunnion mounts on the side of the cylinder which would allow you to use a much shorter hbeam

Oil tank capacity is usually at least equal to pump capacity, 1gal of oil for one gal of flow. Thin tall tanks work better than short fat tanks for keeping the oil cool. 2 stage pumps are low flow at high pressure and low pressure at high flow, the 8 or 10 gal capacity tank suggested should work fine, for homeowner splitting since the machine isnt being pushed hard day after day, but if you plan on doing a lot of splitting, go with a larger tank, it will save you long term in wear on the pump and valves.

You also need to plan on a return oil filter, I suggest a 10micron 25gpm filter, but some folks think a 25micron is all you need. I also like using a suction filter just to keep dirt and trash out of the pump. Some say since the return oil is being filtered, suction filter isnt necessary, but I like clean oil running thru my pumps, not clean oil after the pump

If you are thinking about adding a log lift to your splitter, consider purchasing a multi spool valve for the splitting and lifting functions. Most log splitting valves donot have a power beyond feature which is something you must have if you plan on adding or using another control valve for other functions, ie. the log lift. You can get around the power beyond, but it would mean finding a selector valve to switch between functions, more hoses, fitting, and will probably cost more than just buying a 2 spool valve, not to mention the aggravation of having to always switch the selector valve when you want to split or lift.
 
   / Yet another log splitter build question thread... #7  
With a short beam you can consider converting a tie-rod cylinder to a front mount by replacing the existing rods with longer rods. Even welded cylinders can be converted to front mount.
 

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   / Yet another log splitter build question thread... #8  
Here s the one I built for my tractor that the beam is 67 inches long. With the 4 x 24 cylinder there is no room extra, fully extended the plate is just short of the wedge. 100_3096.jpg
 
   / Yet another log splitter build question thread... #9  
I prefer having the wedge fastened to the beam with an out feed table to catch the splits. This design also allows you to add a log lift which makes a handy staging table when not needed to lift the large pieces.

If you were to make a wedge on the beam style splitter, it would have been cheaper to just buy one.

The attached files shows several different styles of splitters & components used to build a hydraulic splitter & covers some of the pros & cons.
View attachment Parts Needed for Building a Log.pdf
View attachment Choosing, Designing, & Building a Hydraulic Log Splitter - Part 1 of 2.pdf
View attachment Choosing, Designing, & Building a Hydraulic Wood Splitter - Part 2 of 2.pdf

Hope these help.
 
 
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