YM240 smokes heavily, lacks power
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normde2001
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"
I tried setting the valve clearance a couple different times, and spinning the engine through to recheck, but I'll be more careful this time. I will count threads in the morning; that was a good catch noticing the difference (if any) in thread counts on the adjuster. I didn't even think to compare them.
Don't worry about the thread count. It "is what it is" when properly adjusted. I have been adjusting valves for 55 years by cranking the engine with one hand on the pushrod. when it begins to spin, rock until max. clearance and nail it. Common sense says to re-check it.
I tried setting the valve clearance a couple different times, and spinning the engine through to recheck, but I'll be more careful this time. I will count threads in the morning; that was a good catch noticing the difference (if any) in thread counts on the adjuster. I didn't even think to compare them.
Don't worry about the thread count. It "is what it is" when properly adjusted. I have been adjusting valves for 55 years by cranking the engine with one hand on the pushrod. when it begins to spin, rock until max. clearance and nail it. Common sense says to re-check it.
OP
284 International
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- Tractor
- International Harvester 284
Bowinelk, thanks for the pictures! Now I have something to use as a guide, as well as work toward. Yours looks great!
Winston1, I drove about 270 miles to get the tractor. I asked if there were any other parts, but the previous owner said no. He had everything together in bags and coffee cans, but he really was in the process of moving. I'll find out if there were any other parts he's since discovered.
Norm, your method sounds exactly like what I do. Since it's worked for me on everything from jet boat motors to muscle cars and dirtbikes, I figured it would be acceptable here, too. Since it sounds like the procedure is reasonable, I feel like the problem is the retainers for the rocker arms. I'll definitely reset the clearances once I get something to keep the rocker arms on their shafts. It isn't really that tricky or time consuming of a procedure. This is a LOT easier, faster, and cheaper than the shim under bucket designs a lot of high performance motorcycles have. It's identical to my KTM. It makes valve adjustments so much simpler to do.
California, it's good to hear that it seems I got a reasonable deal. I was leery of borrowing somebody else's problems in taking on this project, but so far it appears to have come out acceptably. There are a myriad of other issues, some of which I knew and were obvious beforehand (old, cracked hoses on the loader valve setup, no functioning Thermostart) and some that I didn't, like a boogered and seemingly idiotic "repair" to the spindle on the front axle, where the spindle is welded the steering arm rather than being properly retained by a Woodruff key and nut.
This is actually a safety hazard, and will be my next project. It's potentially EXTREMELY dangerous. The tractor doesn't have a full range of steering motion, but there's some slop in the linkages from worn ball joints, I think. I'm not going to drive it anymore until I get it resolved, though. It's too dangerous.
The help shown to me by the forum members here is really amazing. Thank you all. I'll share my progress on the engine as it happens.
Winston1, I drove about 270 miles to get the tractor. I asked if there were any other parts, but the previous owner said no. He had everything together in bags and coffee cans, but he really was in the process of moving. I'll find out if there were any other parts he's since discovered.
Norm, your method sounds exactly like what I do. Since it's worked for me on everything from jet boat motors to muscle cars and dirtbikes, I figured it would be acceptable here, too. Since it sounds like the procedure is reasonable, I feel like the problem is the retainers for the rocker arms. I'll definitely reset the clearances once I get something to keep the rocker arms on their shafts. It isn't really that tricky or time consuming of a procedure. This is a LOT easier, faster, and cheaper than the shim under bucket designs a lot of high performance motorcycles have. It's identical to my KTM. It makes valve adjustments so much simpler to do.
California, it's good to hear that it seems I got a reasonable deal. I was leery of borrowing somebody else's problems in taking on this project, but so far it appears to have come out acceptably. There are a myriad of other issues, some of which I knew and were obvious beforehand (old, cracked hoses on the loader valve setup, no functioning Thermostart) and some that I didn't, like a boogered and seemingly idiotic "repair" to the spindle on the front axle, where the spindle is welded the steering arm rather than being properly retained by a Woodruff key and nut.
This is actually a safety hazard, and will be my next project. It's potentially EXTREMELY dangerous. The tractor doesn't have a full range of steering motion, but there's some slop in the linkages from worn ball joints, I think. I'm not going to drive it anymore until I get it resolved, though. It's too dangerous.
The help shown to me by the forum members here is really amazing. Thank you all. I'll share my progress on the engine as it happens.
clemsonfor
Super Member
from what i understand there is no thermostat on these tractors. I may be wron, it wont be the first time.
Gary Sweat
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Appears on some models it was an option. If the head has a plug between the injectors, you can add the TS. Pretty simple to do.
normde2001
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As California said, this is what you need "#124450-11290 - Retainer, rocker arm 2 pcs". I doubt that anyone will have them new, but Hoye, Danny Parker, Len Sheaffer, or any of the dealers may have used ones.
The valve spring pressure sounds ok to me. I just had my 3810 head off a few weeks ago and ground the valves and seats and the springs are ridiculously weak compared to most Ive encountered.
So yes a finger or 2 is all that's necessary to push them down.. I also have lash caps on my valve tips and I am not seeing any on this engines pictures so that may be another thing missing?
This engine may not use them not that would matter in this problem just it may be a necessary piece that's missing just pointing that out. My service manual doesn't show them being used on my engine either even though they are there fwtw.
So yes a finger or 2 is all that's necessary to push them down.. I also have lash caps on my valve tips and I am not seeing any on this engines pictures so that may be another thing missing?
This engine may not use them not that would matter in this problem just it may be a necessary piece that's missing just pointing that out. My service manual doesn't show them being used on my engine either even though they are there fwtw.
bowinelk
Member
Thats Funny Cali :laughing: Thats only one spot on the tractor, your 240 is shiny and pretty compared to mine. I wont even take a picture of it yet, its so ugly. One of its eyes droop it has acne all over, possibly close to cancer. two different color shoes on the back. Its front feet are like tennis shoes and he is 4wd. He is missing part of his tail, and his smile is crooked.. But he must have been a heck of a worker at one time. hopefully again soon.
As far as the valve springs, when I pulled the old head off I could push the valve springs down pretty easy with my fingers. I too was concerned about that. So I asked the guy at Farmland Tractor here in town that got me the new head and did the machining on it. He said he would check them and replace if needed. Whether he did or not I'm not sure but they still push down with one thumb or 2 fingers. I guess the compression inside the cylinder holds it up tight to the seat
As far as the valve springs, when I pulled the old head off I could push the valve springs down pretty easy with my fingers. I too was concerned about that. So I asked the guy at Farmland Tractor here in town that got me the new head and did the machining on it. He said he would check them and replace if needed. Whether he did or not I'm not sure but they still push down with one thumb or 2 fingers. I guess the compression inside the cylinder holds it up tight to the seat
clemsonfor
Super Member
Yep i got you, i read thermoSTAT, no thermoSTART. Yes i do know the difference and that the latter was an option. I did the same thing someother guy did awhile back with the wrong item, difference is he thought it was a typo, i just read what i wanted to.
Gary Sweat
Platinum Member
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- May 9, 2010
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Yea, I went back and read it again.
What I see and what I hear are sometimes not the same.