YM336D - Started knocking loud while tilling

[kenmac]

Don't know what's wrong. But, something is. It takes too long to start ( longer than mine). The knock never seems to go away. Mine will knock when I first it & leave it at low idle. Once it warms up or I idle it up the knock goes away. There also seems to be a good amount of smoke comming from somewhere ( can't tell from the vid. where it's comming from). I.m sorry to say but, I think your going to have to go back in. you have done alot of work already. Bummer

 

[Domush]

It takes too long to start ( longer than mine).

The injection lines were still empty, so it had to fill them. I don't think that part was abnormal, as it has happened before when I removed the fuel lines.

The knock never seems to go away. Mine will knock when I first [start] it & leave it at low idle. Once it warms up or I idle it up the knock goes away.

I'm beginning to wonder if the knock and stall is from the fuel injection being too far advanced. Now that the engine has better compression, I wonder if advanced ignition is stopping the pistons, stalling the engine. That would also explain the knock. After all, that knock was there before it got bad enough to rebuild. I wonder if retarding the timing is the fix for all of this.

There also seems to be a good amount of smoke coming from somewhere

I've never had new rings and cylinders, so I wasn't sure if that was simply the rings letting oil passed until they seal up fully. The initial smoke at start is likely from the oil I lubed the cylinder walls with when installing the pistons.

Either way, I bought some plastigauge today and will plastigauge the rod bearings seeing as I have it open. I really am starting to think it may be advanced timing. I'll check the lines for flow tomorrow

 

[Domush]

Thats a lot if you ask me!! Is the bearing bad, does it come out of the weep hole, i guess not as thats easy?

Yeah, it just recently starting leaking that much (while running only). When I first got it I thought it was because the gasket was bad, but I made a new gasket and it just kept leaking and out of two different pces, which now leads me to think the pressure is up in that area.

 

[kenmac]

I wonder if retarding the timing is the fix for all of this

Never fooled with timing on a diesel. I thought the only way to adjust is shims at the injector pump

 

[Domush]

Never fooled with timing on a diesel. I thought the only way to adjust is shims at the injector pump

It is. When I bought the tractor, one of the injector shims was crimped, which means it was removed at some point. I wonder if it is missing a shim from before I got it. I can't take anything on this tractor for granted, obviously the PO didn't care if it lived or not.

 

[5030]

Injector pump timing can be adjusted a number of ways, internal shims, by physically rotating the pump (common with rotary type pumps) or by gear train under the front cover.

Usually, the gear train will have reference marks that line up when everything (camshaft, crankshaft, pto and fuel pump) is in correct relationship to each other...........

Some pump input shafts are splined and the spline mates to another spline cut in the fear that resides under the front cover.....

A shop manual with drawings/exploded views would be helpful.....

 

[winston1]

Not meaning to imply timing is your problem. Just sharing some specs. I believe your injector should pop at 25 degrees before top dead center. 1 shim equals 1 degree. If mark has gone by pointer-remove shims. If mark has not reached pointer-add shims. Domush, I commend you, you are a man of patience. :thumbsup:

 

[Car Doc]

I am still wondering how much fuel is coming out of #2 at the injector?

I would definitely do a compression test (remember the hitch?) and dont worry if the pan is off there is plenty of oil on everything. Do this before plastigage if there is no side movement in that tight rod otherwise there wont be enough oil plastigage needs dry crank/bearing so make sure to oil it after checking it.

And you are 100 thousand % sure the caps are on right.

That way you can make an educated decision as to what the next logical step is. I hope my methods are soaking in there is something to my madness.

All things considered I almost never miss on my diagnosis when its hands on this is fairly difficult online. But as long as steps are taken in order I do this every day year after year on very complicated vehicles this tractor is simple as pie. good luck hope that helps :thumbsup:

The timing is and I have not done one yet just researched it because I am 95% my timing is fast also. Anyway put a short fuel line on the #1 plunger installed like a "J" pointed upwards. And you slowly turn the crank and watch the fuel just start to pour over the top of the tube and at that point you look at the timing mark on the front cover/crank pulley. (and I believe Winston is right on w/25 deg from my memory anyway ) hth also

 

[Garybake]

Domush, My apologies for not being back online for you sooner. (Yesterday was a Crdiologist Visit From H3ll. Then Primary care and then Hospital) I tried to read all posts and found mind wandering on my issues but realize all the great intelligent help you have gotten. Now she is built up it sounds fine. (Not new)... My experience tells me you have one piston skirt that when cold is stiff and slightly collapsed/oblong cymetrically. Once warmed it will expand and not be such an issue Noise/blowby/little smoke. It takes time to warm to expansion. I hope you had your cyl head milled flat as I suspect it was severly overheated before you owned and distorted. This is also why coolant pump shaft seal started leaking as easy escape of compresion stroke cyl pressure in water jacket. On intake stroke hot pressurized water jacket fed cyl (discolor of exhaust port on 2.) You did a great job and had great help. I think you are worried and need a confidence boost to just go work that thing and get some breakin hours. It sounded great and was getting quiter towards end of clip. Did seem like awfully long crank time so fuel delivery may need tweaking.
Pat yourself on the back and run the snot out of it watching that temp gauge and then change oil/filter. Will run hot breaking in so use a coolant (not water) to prevent steam pockets. Sorry I was not more help.
You have a lot of great intelligent support just do not doubt your work you did good, it will run fine give in some breakin time.:thumbsup:

Go to VID on post 36
Listen to 50 second mark of video and then 2:30 Mark and switch between them.

 

[Garybake]

Nice Work Domush! Saw all your improvent pictures:thumbsup: You do good work. And Fast!!! Nice post with pics/ makes it visual for us all.