YM336D - Started knocking loud while tilling

Car Doc · Apr 13, 2012

California said:
??? do you mean the pre-chamber is pointed, the part he was talking about grinding down?

The injector itself is blunt on the end. Here is my photo that corresponds to that Hoye diagram.

Mine had points on them right in the center the injectors did that is.

Spray oil is your friend as I said about 270 posts ago hahaha by now they would fall out on their own or just a bit of persuasion that and get the crud out from around them with a wire and air etc just my suggestion.

Domush · Apr 13, 2012

Well, I put it all back together and I could swear it blew another head gasket! I made a long video of it running. It sounds like it blew again somewhere around the 1 minute mark.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OkYcMEP_n2Y]Tractor rebuild startup - Third time's the charm.. hopefully - YouTube[/ame]

I'm at a loss as to what more I can do. Unless the valves are not opening when they should, I don't see anything else which even could be wrong with it.

dusty3030 · Apr 13, 2012

I make a motion that you name that tractor Job.

Good luck.

Pete Judd · Apr 14, 2012

Domush, think it may be to early to blame a head gasket. I always expect a new engine to smoke a little, until the rings set. I would look for bubbles in the radiator or foaming in the oil. You might have gotten a little bad fuel that caused it to smoke at 1 min. Watched the whole vid, and looked like you where running at about 12-1500 rpm for the most part. Sounds normal for a 3 cyl.

winston1 · Apr 14, 2012

I too, watched the whole video and agree with Pete. Before the one minute mark you were getting smoke, at the one minute mark there was an extra puff and change in sound, but it quickly went back to how it was before the one minute mark. Never saw any movement in the overflow bottle. I know you have lots of fans rooting for you. :thumbsup:

rmully · Apr 14, 2012

Sounds like my ym2020 I think you fixed it! I would put some sea foam in it and get some good seat time just tooling around and put a few hours on it. I think the smoke may be from residual oil from the gasket replacement :thumbsup:

5030 · Apr 14, 2012

Sounds perfectly normal for a naturally aspirated diesel engine and I too believe the puff at a minute or so was some oil or solvent in a combustion chamber being combusted.

I would run it unladen (no work, just the tractor itself) around for a couple hours and then pull the valve cover and check the valve lash and do an oil/filter change and then use it.

All naturally aspirated diesels smoke a bit, a nature of the engine.... Nothing to get concerned about and I really don't see the exhaust as oil smoking, just diesel smoke.....

Domush · Apr 14, 2012

As usual, you guys are right. I started it up today and drove it around for about fifteen minutes and it sounds nice and smooth. The exhaust has a nice low growl to it. It still smokes about half as much as before the rebuild, but the difference in engine sound is night and day. The hard knocking I heard yesterday is gone today and, for the first time ever, it reached a high enough temp for the thermostat to open. The engine and exhaust finally get hot, now. Before the rebuild I could lay my hand on the exhaust even when it was running! Now I don't dare touch it, as I can feel the heat coming off it.

Once it cools of for a few hours I'll check the head bolts again and check the valve clearances. I'm cautiously optimistic, but I think I might be okay!

As always, thank you all for your advice, encouragement and kind words. You make a tractor rebuild just another day on the farm

5030 · Apr 14, 2012

Smoke is a good thing. No smoke, no fire. No fire no power.

Just keep a check on the dipstick and it will use a bit until the rings seat in and some thereafter, Anyone who says their engine don't use any oil is FOS. They all do

Some engines are particular about oil level as well, Caterpillar in particular. Fill a Cat to the full mark and a few hours later, it's down a couple quarts.

With a diesel, if it don't rattle a bit, something is wrong, but I'd still check the overhead after a few hours. Far as headbolts are concerned, we never check those after a rebuild. We progressive torque to factory specification and leave them alone. Remember, when you torque head bolts, you stretch them a tiny bit so we never retorque.

Go run it around your place for a while, change the oil and filter and go back to what you were doing when it puked. Just don't flog it. Remember all the sweat you put into it.