Your advice ?

[MossRoad]

Trailer pictures....

Far away.
Loaded with rocks.
Unloading limestone.
Sure betas a wheelbarrow.
Two mowers, two buckets, pallet forks and tractor.

 

[Barryh]

Moss,

I'm pretty sure that is the exact same trailer I am looking at (very nice). Only difference it has a heavy wooden bed instead of steel. I'm looking at two, one is a landscape trailer pretty much the same thing only it has a 2000 pound rated on ramp, with built up sides a little lighter frame.

The other is a car trailer with car ramps and stake sides, just like yours, is that a 16ft? And yes especially back here where I am located, the roads are narrow, very hilly and twisty. It’s hard to pass even with out a trailer. This will take some practice. Good idea, checking the routes when giving estimates.

 

[Barryh]

OK Moss,

I am driving 3 hours from here on Sat to pick up my new trailer. I was considering going with the equipment trailer over the car trailer which had the same 7,000 pound rating, except it had the rails and 2000 pound max, 4 ft ramp instead of car ramps.

I have decided to go with the car trailer like yours because I plan to use it for landscaping and may be loading a lot of rocks along with my equipment. I like the idea you can load the PT from the side without the railing in the way. It also has stake sides if I want to make my own wood rails.

It comes with dual brakes / axles, car ramps, safety chains; brake box will be installed while I wait. What else might I need? With dual axles and 15 inch tires, if I were to have a flat / blow out. I think I would be fine to get it to a gas station or for repair still riding on one good tire.

Did you buy the spare tire and rack for your trailer? Also someone mentioned buy D- rings to secure the PT with. I think that’s a good idea. Any other basic's I might be leaving out? Anyone?

 

[MossRoad]

Mine has D rings in the front and I use the stake pockets on the sides of the trailer rearward of the fenders for chains. I only put wood 12" sides on the front and sides forwards of the fenders. I could use a few more D rings here and there and may add them some day.

I have two 12' chains for tie downs. I tried straps, but they catch on stuff too easily adn get damaged. I wish I had not bought them. What I usually do is back the PT onto the trailer until I see the weight transfer onto the tow vehicle. Then I attach a chain to the front D rings and through the rear hitch of the PT. I then pull forward to put some pressure on it and set the brake. Then I attach the second chain to the sides of the rear of the trailer and through a tow hook that I installed on the front of the PT. I then take off the brake and use a load binder to tighten it down. Set the brake again and I'm good to go.

My bolt pattern is the same on the trailer and the van, and I have a spare on my van(usually). That was just good luck.

Do you have a brake controller?

 

[Barryh]

Mine has D rings in the front and I use the stake pockets on the sides of the trailer rearward of the fenders for chains. I only put wood 12" sides on the front and sides forwards of the fenders. I could use a few more D rings here and there and may add them some day.

I have two 12' chains for tie downs. I tried straps, but they catch on stuff too easily adn get damaged. I wish I had not bought them. What I usually do is back the PT onto the trailer until I see the weight transfer onto the tow vehicle. Then I attach a chain to the front D rings and through the rear hitch of the PT. I then pull forward to put some pressure on it and set the brake. Then I attach the second chain to the sides of the rear of the trailer and through a tow hook that I installed on the front of the PT. I then take off the brake and use a load binder to tighten it down. Set the brake again and I'm good to go.

My bolt pattern is the same on the trailer and the van, and I have a spare on my van(usually). That was just good luck.

Do you have a brake controller?

Well that should certainly simplify things, I appreciate it, your method sounds well though out. So I should get at least 4 D-rings along with chains instead of straps. Yes it will have a brake controller.

I know there are locks you can put over the hitch housing or coupler to deter theft. If I were to have to leave this somewhere on a temporary basis. Given the weight how hard do you think it would it be to steal? Thanks

 

[MossRoad]

Well that should certainly simplify things, I appreciate it, your method sounds well though out. So I should get at least 4 D-rings along with chains instead of straps. Yes it will have a brake controller.

I know there are locks you can put over the hitch housing or coupler to deter theft. If I were to have to leave this somewhere on a temporary basis. Given the weight how hard do you think it would it be to steal? Thanks

I have a bull dog type hitch with a pin lock that prevents the hitch from being opened. However, nothing you put over the hitch will prevent a determined thief from just chaining it to a ball hitch, cranking up the tongue and dragging it away. Even if you chained the thing to the ground they's jsut cut the chain. If you left it hooked up to your truck, they'd steal the truck. For that reason, I never leave my tractor on my trailer overnight because it is just so easy with the quick attach to just unload all the implements and take them in the garage. After a long day of work, I just back into my driveway, unchain the PT and all implements, pop on the ramps, take the spare gas can in the garage, fire up the PT and unload all the implements into the garage, then park and unhook the trailer from the van. From the time I get into the driveway until the time I'm washing up for dinner it usually takes me about 20 minutes.

... which brings up another plug for a pickup truck, a trailer and a Power Trac.

Let's say you're a contractor with one conventional tractor...
You need your FEL to move some material. CHECK
You need your BOX blade to level that material. CHECK
You need your tiller to prep a seed bed. CRUD, have to switch 3pt implements.
You need your brush hog to clear some overgrowth. CRUD.
You need your forks. Maybe they'll fit on the FEL.
You need your trencher. CRUD!!
You need your backhoe to dig out a drain. CRUD again!!!
You need your post hole digger to put in a flagpole. CRUD! CRUD! CRUD!

No one in their right mind would attempt all those implement changes on a 3pt hitch tractor in one day. They just wouldn't do it. PERIOD!

Bring in the Power Trac....
FEL with two buckets, one being a grapple or four in one. CHECK!
Box blade. CHECK!
Tiller. CHECK!
Brush hog. CHECK!
Forks. CHECK!
Trencher. CHECK!
Backhoe. Mini hoe will do fine. CHECK!
Post hole digger. CHECK!

9 implements, any of which could be changed in 30 seconds or less. Even if it took a minute, that's less than 10 minutes to change 9 implements. And you can switch back and forth all day, at any time you need with no fear of bashing knuckles, straining your back, etc...

I would think PT on a trailer loaded up with implemetns would be a landscape contractors dream.

 

[MossRoad]

I forgot to mention...
I have a cross-bed pickup truck tool box mounted on the tongue area of the trailer, out in front of the actual trailer bed.

This is the exact model that I have, although I bought it cheaper somewhere else. I keep my tie down chains, tensioners, grease gun, spray grease, some extra lynch pins, a few hand tools, hand shovels (yes, I need one once in a while, even with a PT ), broom, pry bar, axe, saw, chainsaw, bar oil and usually my lunch in there. It takes away no room from the trailer bed and is a great addition. I was worried about the plastic box warping in the sun, but it is of some foam-type construction and has been fine for three years, stored outside. A great addition for anyone with a work trailer.

 

[Barryh]

I have a bull dog type hitch with a pin lock that prevents the hitch from being opened. However, nothing you put over the hitch will prevent a determined thief from just chaining it to a ball hitch, cranking up the tongue and dragging it away. Even if you chained the thing to the ground they's jsut cut the chain. If you left it hooked up to your truck, they'd steal the truck. For that reason, I never leave my tractor on my trailer overnight because it is just so easy with the quick attach to just unload all the implements and take them in the garage. After a long day of work, I just back into my driveway, unchain the PT and all implements, pop on the ramps, take the spare gas can in the garage, fire up the PT and unload all the implements into the garage, then park and unhook the trailer from the van. From the time I get into the driveway until the time I'm washing up for dinner it usually takes me about 20 minutes.

... which brings up another plug for a pickup truck, a trailer and a Power Trac.

Let's say you're a contractor with one conventional tractor...
You need your FEL to move some material. CHECK
You need your BOX blade to level that material. CHECK
You need your tiller to prep a seed bed. CRUD, have to switch 3pt implements.
You need your brush hog to clear some overgrowth. CRUD.
You need your forks. Maybe they'll fit on the FEL.
You need your trencher. CRUD!!
You need your backhoe to dig out a drain. CRUD again!!!
You need your post hole digger to put in a flagpole. CRUD! CRUD! CRUD!

No one in their right mind would attempt all those implement changes on a 3pt hitch tractor in one day. They just wouldn't do it. PERIOD!

Bring in the Power Trac....
FEL with two buckets, one being a grapple or four in one. CHECK!
Box blade. CHECK!
Tiller. CHECK!
Brush hog. CHECK!
Forks. CHECK!
Trencher. CHECK!
Backhoe. Mini hoe will do fine. CHECK!
Post hole digger. CHECK!

9 implements, any of which could be changed in 30 seconds or less. Even if it took a minute, that's less than 10 minutes to change 9 implements. And you can switch back and forth all day, at any time you need with no fear of bashing knuckles, straining your back, etc...

I would think PT on a trailer loaded up with implemetns would be a landscape contractors dream.

You’ve got that right, my thoughts exactly. I have it so, I may as well put it to good use. Even though it’s not really meant for commercial use. I feel the 180 is very tough and greatly underestimated.

If I don’t constantly over heat or abused it, I feel it will hold up pretty well. My thoughts are when I get the business built up enough, move up to a 425 keeping the 180 as a back up.

My dream falls a little short with the Mini Hoe option, but I have been eyeballing a ride on trencher/ back hoe. I know you've all seen them at Harbor Freight, and Northern Tools.

I know central machinery, and Harbor Freight equipment tends to be crap most of the time. Not sure about this particular unit though, it looks pretty well built has a Robin 9 HP on it so I can’t go wrong there at least.

I may add at a later date. I know it will be hard to control just hitched to the PT. I think their could be a method to the madness, with lots of practice I should be able to master it like fine surgical instrument.

The too box is a great idea and I’m sure it will be needed, as for leaving it somewhere. I was thinking really short term as in an hour or two, but I think even that would be risky and I sure wouldn’t leave it with the PT on board, there’s just no way.

I am concerned about leaving here at my house when I am out doing other things I plan to park it around back out of view and maybe put some kind of alarm on it, so it would wake me up at night if someone tries to move it. No room in the garage for a trailer.

 

[MossRoad]

Alarms are easy and cheap insurance.

 

[Barryh]

Alarms are easy and cheap insurance.

You bet.

 

[Rivco]

This site might be of interest to you - regarding worksite and mobile equipment security/alarm systems. DEWALT Portable Alarms

 

[Barryh]

Very interesting thanks...

 

[KentT]

Barry,

Here's a pic of my PT-425 on my 14x6.5 ft tandem trailer. It hauls the tractor and most attachments just fine -- however it is too short for the tractor and my 1-ton Country Manufacturing cart. I cannot close the tailgates/ramps -- I'm about 2" off -- so I have to chain those up when I haul the cart. As shown here, I'm using straps just to cinch up and hold the tailgate while I put the chains on, then I remove the straps. I need to get more load binders...

My space to part the trailer itself is very tight -- I have to turn it 90 degrees to park it behind my house -- so I chose to go with a 14' instead of the 16'. Overall, I do not regret that, even if it is a pain to haul the cart along. I typically haul the minihoe and a couple of buckets in addition to the PT, or the PT with the 48" rough-cut mower attached, and it works great in those circumstances.

The 6.5x14 seems to also be a good fit for v8 Dodge Dakota. It tracks behind the truck well, with just enough fender sticking out on each side to be quite visible in the mirrors. Whatever size you decide on, I strongly recommend you get a weight-distributing hitch -- it makes a world of difference in handling and is MUCH, MUCH safer.

 

[Barryh]

Barry,

Here's a pic of my PT-425 on my 14x6.5 ft tandem trailer. It hauls the tractor and most attachments just fine -- however it is too short for the tractor and my 1-ton Country Manufacturing cart. I cannot close the tailgates/ramps -- I'm about 2" off -- so I have to chain those up when I haul the cart. As shown here, I'm using straps just to cinch up and hold the tailgate while I put the chains on, then I remove the straps. I need to get more load binders...

My space to part the trailer itself is very tight -- I have to turn it 90 degrees to park it behind my house -- so I chose to go with a 14' instead of the 16'. Overall, I do not regret that, even if it is a pain to haul the cart along. I typically haul the minihoe and a couple of buckets in addition to the PT, or the PT with the 48" rough-cut mower attached, and it works great in those circumstances.

The 6.5x14 seems to also be a good fit for v8 Dodge Dakota. It tracks behind the truck well, with just enough fender sticking out on each side to be quite visible in the mirrors. Whatever size you decide on, I strongly recommend you get a weight-distributing hitch -- it makes a world of difference in handling and is MUCH, MUCH safer.

Hey Kent,

I’m looking at two trailers. One is just like MR's the other is just like yours, only in a 16 Ft. I think I may need 16 Ft doing lawns and landscaping.

In some cases hauling the PT with the lawn equipment. I was going with the car trailer, but now I am leaning toward the equipment trailer for my needs. Both are very nice trailers rated at 7,000 pounds. I think that they are really the same, except for the added rail and ramp like on yours. It is possible the channel frame on the car trailer may be a slightly heavier I will be checking that out. Thanks for the pictures, and input. Nice trailer! will take your advice on the hitch.

 

[bbabineau]

Barry,


Whatever size you decide on, I strongly recommend you get a weight-distributing hitch -- it makes a world of difference in handling and is MUCH, MUCH safer.

Wlile a weight distributing hitch may be nice, it is a lot of effort if you don't need it. I have an 18 ft car trailer (10k) and haul a 6k car with no distributing hitch. It tows great behind my F150. With my PT 1430 I hardly know it is there. Suggest you try it first without the weight hitch and do it if you feel insecure or get too much sway or rear drop on the truck.

 

[Barryh]

Wlile a weight distributing hitch may be nice, it is a lot of effort if you don't need it. I have an 18 ft car trailer (10k) and haul a 6k car with no distributing hitch. It tows great behind my F150. With my PT 1430 I hardly know it is there. Suggest you try it first without the weight hitch and do it if you feel insecure or get too much sway or rear drop on the truck.

Well that's what I will be towing with, an F-150 short bed. Talking to another F-150 owner today. He has a 18ft also, and said the the same thing the truck and trialer track really nice togther even on ice. I'll test it and see thanks.

 

[SpringHollow]

I bought a Blue Ox weight distributing hitch (WDH) for my 20' long car hauler. It is a very nice weight distributing hitch with anti-sway built into it. I picked this one because once you do the initial setup, it only takes a couple of minutes at most to add the weight distributing setup and hook it up. It was easier to hook up than the Reese which is why I got it. Without the WDH, my truck was not rated for the load. I must say it works extremely well. The truck is level when the trailer is loaded and everything goes down the road very nice.

Ken

 

[KentT]

I bought a Blue Ox weight distributing hitch (WDH) for my 20' long car hauler. It is a very nice weight distributing hitch with anti-sway built into it. I picked this one because once you do the initial setup, it only takes a couple of minutes at most to add the weight distributing setup and hook it up. It was easier to hook up than the Reese which is why I got it. Without the WDH, my truck was not rated for the load. I must say it works extremely well. The truck is level when the trailer is loaded and everything goes down the road very nice.

Ken

Yep, I never knew the difference a WDH hitch could make until a friend of mine and I took his 16ft trailer to Illinois a few years ago to pick up 3 garden tractors. I pulled it with my Dodge Ram that I had...

Even though I didn't need it for the weight, I found several positive benefits, including:

1. The trailer tracked beautifully with zero swaying, even though the hitch did not have the optional anti-sway shock absorbers. The tension between the truck and trailer seemed to cancel out any tendency to sway, even when passing or being passed by semis, or when encountering strong gusts of wind, etc.

2. There was NO rocking or up-and-down motion of the truck as the truck and trailer went over bumps, expansion joints, bridge ramps, etc. The trailer and truck respond almost like one vehicle with an extremely long wheelbase.

3. There was reduced tendency or indications of the trailer trying to push the truck as you went around curves, etc. The combination actually feels far more stable on sharp curves (such as cloverleaf entrance/exit ramps) than the truck without a trailer behind it...

To make a long story short, I bought one for my new tandem trailer when I bought it (I upgraded from a single-axle 3500 lb trailer), and it is one of the best investments I've ever made. I use it even when I have nothing loaded on the trailer -- when the trailer is empty -- because it improves the handling of the package so well.

I now cruise comfortably (and relatively safely) down the freeway at 65-70 MPH -- something I NEVER would've considered without this hitch... If you've never used one, try it -- you won't go back, and you'll likely find yourself using it all the time....

 

[Barryh]

Well ended up buying the 16 Ft Car trailer. I drove it home today. Here's a few pic's along with my Very Dirty Truck, from all of the mud around here. It was very tight getting it back here.

I know I'm really going to have a hard time if I meet a large truck coming the other way. Seems the problem is going around corners the back end is still out in the road until I can straighten it out. I barley get past the cars. I don't think buying the 14 ft would have made to much difference.

I had no tracking problems even at 70 miles and hour with wheel hop or sway, but the real test will be with a load onboard. So I'll have to wait until I can load up and test it out. I May end up taking Kent’s advise always better safe than sorry. Kent what might we be talking about price wise for the Weight distributing hitch?

 

[KentT]

Barry,

That's a nice looking trailer. With 12" sideboards, it should be very versatile for you, and haul everything you need to haul.

A decent weight-distributing hitch should cost you no more than $300-350... There's more expensive ones out there, but I bought the 8000 lb version of this hitch (Hidden Hitch brand, American made in Michigan) when it was on sale for $249.95 with free shipping.

Hidden Hitch WEIGHT-DISTRIBUTING SYSTEMS : JC Whitney: Auto Parts & Accessories