Your last generator Maintenance Run

[daugen]

A good habit is to check the oil before use and when refueling
100 hours OCI or annual is pretty standard for air cooled splash lube engines.
Engines with pressure/filtered lube systems and liquid cooling can easily go 200…

100 hours is a lot for most of us on small gens.
I think if oil change was annual or 100 hours would be safe
with one exception
I would not go 100 hours on first oil change. I usually change at 15-25 hours for
new engines.
but due to low hours and using high quality full synthetic oil, I've been changing oil every two years.
It still looks like new. Gen has less than 50 hours on it.
Since mine just ran 22 hours this last week, it earned its next oil change.
so easy to do, why not.

 

[3930dave]

Now that I'm thinking about it again, I should go look at that label and make sure I read it correctly.

Nope, I didn't. It says CHECK oil every 8 hours, not CHANGE oil every 8 hours. I pulled out the manual to confirm and it says 6 months/100 hours for oil change. Oops.

Oh well, I have been changing it once per season anyway so I'm good.

Thanks for the update.

Rgds, D.

 

[3930dave]

All i know is…i see alot of damage repair over the years caused by predator generators. These were a few years ago, maybe they have gotten better.

You'd think that a basic AVR shouldn't be that hard to bolt into a gen, but maybe they had an issue with their older stuff ?

I haven't owned a Predator, but have followed them for a bit (which means nothing more than, I can click a mouse ! ).... I first took note of the Reviews of people using them as replacement engines (tillers, power washers etc). As I understand it, Predator is a Honda clone, that's been produced for quite a while. They seem to have the mechanical bits sorted, with good support from HFreight if anything does come up.

Both Champion and Predator have moved into Inverter gens some time back, so hopefully their electron knowledge has been stepped-up accordingly..... haven't seen massive reports of failures in those lines, OTOH, I haven't been actively looking . Inverter gens have some advantages, and modern packaging and usually good muffler performance.... though the (electronic) hardware geek in me, isn't totally happy adding all that complexity to a critical tool...... yep, even Honda inverter boards fail.....

The big Predator inverters appear to be popular for food-trucks these days, so they will be piling up hours on that duty..... There's that old Budget Thing..... if you have the coin, Honda and Yamaha are top-tier choices. If I was funding a scratch-build for a food-truck, budget wise I'd probably be taking a serious look @ Predator, and Champion, for quiet cost-effective inverter options.

First coffee done (I work a weird shift).... back to regular 3930 programming !

Rgds, D.

 

[3930dave]

anyone know why they changed from a poly gas tank to an all steel tank ?
I have an older Generac (B&S) engine, and it has the poly gas tank, which in my opinion is better than the steel tanks . No rust to ever worry about .

I like the looks of the Predator, I'm just not sure about long term use.
I've has this old Generac since about 1995

Guessing - just cost, but unless quality tank resin has gone through the roof, I would have thought a finished tank would be cheaper in plastic. (I've heard of cheap plastic tanks going porous over time tho...).

Hmmm..... wondering now, if anybody is 3D printing tanks ? Suitable material cost, likely high, but that could help on special-projects.....

Even a well constructed steel tank, sitting empty, is not going to like the condensation that accrues (at least where I am) , as many an old MC, or other equipment restorer knows.....

Rgds, D.

 

[kenmac]

Guessing - just cost, but unless quality tank resin has gone through the roof, I would have thought a finished tank would be cheaper in plastic. (I've heard of cheap plastic tanks going porous over time tho...).

Would be no more porous than the plastic (poly) containers we use

 

[Fallon]

Guessing - just cost, but unless quality tank resin has gone through the roof, I would have thought a finished tank would be cheaper in plastic. (I've heard of cheap plastic tanks going porous over time tho...).

Hmmm..... wondering now, if anybody is 3D printing tanks ? Suitable material cost, likely high, but that could help on special-projects.....

Even a well constructed steel tank, sitting empty, is not going to like the condensation that accrues (at least where I am) , as many an old MC, or other equipment restorer knows.....

Rgds, D.

3d printing, at least in the consumer space means filament printing. Filament printing is not waterproof. Some filaments are better than others, but intrinsically many many layers means many joints & cracks.

Resin printers can produce water tight prints. But they aren't big enough for any useful fuel tanks. Resin prints tend to be brittle as well. Not sure on resistance to fuel for any of the resin or filament types offhand either.

I've got 2 3d printers, Prusa i3 Mk 3.9 & a 5 head XL. Tried some printed cups or containers a while back & they had a bit of liquid coming through, albeit extremely slowly. Probably PLA, may have been PETG, I forget.

 

[3930dave]

3d printing, at least in the consumer space means filament printing. Filament printing is not waterproof. Some filaments are better than others, but intrinsically many many layers means many joints & cracks.

Resin printers can produce water tight prints. But they aren't big enough for any useful fuel tanks. Resin prints tend to be brittle as well. Not sure on resistance to fuel for any of the resin or filament types offhand either.

I've got 2 3d printers, Prusa i3 Mk 3.9 & a 5 head XL. Tried some printed cups or containers a while back & they had a bit of liquid coming through, albeit extremely slowly. Probably PLA, may have been PETG, I forget.

Interesting 411, thanks.

Haven't gone the printer ownership route, yet. Wanted to try the process, so grabbed a file and printed a mast anchor-ring @ the local library - great option, for many custom parts.

My direct-experience with plastic/gas issues was an approved (UL etc) gas "can". Bought new, stored in the trunk of an old Chev of mine, never left outdoors, and not really used much. After 10+ years or so, found it "sweating" a small amount of gas through the sides when filled. I was the only one using it, so it didn't have a rough life compared to many.

Not common ^, and might have been nothing more than a contaminated-batch..... even Toyota has production problems (spun crank-bearings, recent truck motors).

Rgds, D.

 

[LittleBill21]

3d printing, at least in the consumer space means filament printing. Filament printing is not waterproof. Some filaments are better than others, but intrinsically many many layers means many joints & cracks.

I routinely print water proof containers out of PETG, pla leaks. I even hold gas with PETG for weeks without leaks.

I was able to get to about 40psi water pressure as well,but it was just a test, not sure on the longevity

 

[3930dave]

I routinely print water proof containers out of PETG, pla leaks. I even hold gas with PETG for weeks without leaks.

I was able to get to about 40psi water pressure as well,but it was just a test, not sure on the longevity

Interesting 411.

Rgds,D

 

[nikdfish]

Straightened out a "won't start" inverter generator today. It's a generator we bought specifically to loan out to the wife's sister. She is dependent on an oxygen contentrator, which means a power outage can become a big deal & there was no generator at her place.

We bought it a few years back when an ice storm had power out county wide. It is small enough for portability (49 lb.) but big enough to run her equipment (2K starting 1.6K running).

I recently heard that the last few times they tried to use it, it wouldn't run. Pretty sure they had ignored my suggestions for regular exercise. No knowledge of when it was last fueled or what was used. A couple of folks there said they would look at it, but nothing came of it.

I finally asked the wife bring it home after her next visit. First thing I did was to pump out the old gas. The gallon jug in the pic is what I pumped out.

I added a few ounces of marine grade Sea Foam to the pumped empty tank & pulled the starter a half dozen times, which actually got it to fire. I then added few onces of my fresh treated gas to probably get to a 50/50 mix. At this point it starts & runs, but does not appear to be "full throttle" even with "eco mode" off.

At this point it would not take a load without dying. I let it sit, then run a bit, then repeat.

After a bit more run time I started gradually introducing a load. I'd use the switch on a hot air gun to add a 750w load, but remove it before the engine died, then repeat. Did that until it would not die under the load. I did the same thing with the 1500w setting until it could carry that.

I think the load based throttle linkage was just sticky until it was exercized a bit. Eventually it got to where it could go from no-load "eco mode" to a 1500w load without dying.

I added a bit more gas and let it run an hour carrying 1500w, then removed the load & shut off the fuel valve to let it run out the fuel bowl contents. Once cool I filled it with my treated gas.

It should be good to go back.