JD 3005 full cage ROPS/FOPS build

[dieselcrawler]

I have been wanting to build a full cage ROPS since I got my tractor about 2.5 years ago. My farm is 100% hillside, and I push my tractor to the limits regularly. I've added wheel spacers to add a total of 9" width in the rear, which made a huge difference in stability, but I want the protection of a full cage.

Spring of 2014, I made a quick canopy out of plywood and boards, to both give me shade and rain protection, as well as get used to an object over my head during egress and regular use. Though it looks tacky, it has served me well.





Last weekend I started cutting some metal. 2x2x1/8" box tube will be what is used for most of the construction, with gusseted corners, and 1/4" angle and flat plate at the mounting points. My goal is no modification to the factory ROPS or loader mounts, while still being mounted solidly.

I was able to get the roof section cut out, with ends mitered to fit, 36"x48". Slightly wider than top of factory ROPS, and 4" longer than current plywood canopy.





This will be a 'few minutes here, and hour there' project, and updates will be posted accordingly, as I make progress.

 

[Green Power]

Looking forward to this, looks like a great start.

 

[crashz]

Interested.

BTW - I have a home-made Cab/Rops thing on my 770 from the previous owner. The 770 is the predecessor to the 790, which is the predecessor of the 3005. With unloaded turfs, its very tippy on all but flat ground. The extra weight makes a difference. As I shed my cab, piece by piece, it makes a dramatic difference in feel.

Mine has been on its side once as far as I know (other operators run it more than me) and they "forget" to tell me.

 

[dieselcrawler]

Crashz: be interested in seeing what you have on your tractor.

Center of gravity concerns is why I will be using 1/8" wall, not 3/16", for weight savings. I think the strength will be adequate due to the short spans and gussets. Triangulation is key!

With rear wheels wider than the wheelbase is long, and all 4 tires loaded, as it sits now it's quite stable. Will handle side hills better than my pucker-factor can... but...

Did some brush hogging tonight, and got into a quite tippy situation, was actually teetering with the right rear tire bobbing off the ground. Really makes me want a cage around me. Need to pick up some cutoff disks, hope to make some progress this weekend.

 

[gladehound]

Can't wait to see the rest of the build. I'm in the woods a lot and am a big fan of FOPS and cages over 2 point ROPS. I also think your choice of 2x2 1/8" will work fine. My cage is probably over built with the main rails 2x3x1/4" stock. But my side shields are 2x2x1/8" stock and have taken some big hits without issue. They are stronger than I thought they would be and in retrospect, a well designed cage of 2x2x1/8" is probably all you need - especially with the gussets and such as you mentioned. Keep posting pictures!

 

[dieselcrawler]

Due to weather conditions, I was able to spend a good portion of the day working on this project.

I started by welding the top hoop. Leveled it up, squared, made sure there was no 'taco' to it, then tacked and burned in all the joints.


The thing I was having the hardest time wrapping my head around was the attachment to the upper corners of the factory ROPS. I wanted to utilize the bolts that hold the corner brackets, but with them on the inside, and my top being wider than the ROPS, I just couldn't "see" it. This is what I came up with.

I started by drilling holes in some plates that would match the bolt spacing. I insist on oiling my metal drill bits, and rigged up an oil can spout and catch pan that I scrape shavings into, and it let's me catch and reuse the oil, and dispose of the shavings.



A piece along the back and side, and I came up with this...











Gonna get some dinner, will continue shortly

 

[dieselcrawler]

I got the corner brackets in place, and the top hoop sitting on top. I cut the front post that will attach to the loader mounts, and have it all sitting there. Still needs welded together, after I get the mounting at the loader bracket figured out.

 

[sixdogs]

That is looking really good.

 

[dieselcrawler]

No real progress today, but I did come up with a plan for the lower mounting points at the loader bracket. The loader bracket is 3" square tube, I plan to surround that with 2 pieces of angle bolted together.







I will need to weld flanges on each edge of each half, after I have holes drilled to bolt them together. They will be 1"x1/4" flat bar, gusseted perpendicular to the flat bars back to the angle pieces.

 

[arrow]

I'm following up to the last pic. Not getting it as an additional step. Why couldn't the one piece of angle that the forward supports will be welded to suffice and just bolt the angle to the loader support? (unless you did not want to drill and tap into the loader support). Very nice project btw.

 

[dieselcrawler]

(unless you did not want to drill and tap into the loader support). Very nice project btw.

Exactly. Totally bolt on, but strong, no modification to factory brackets or ROPS.

And thanks... I like to share.

 

[crashz]

Looks good Greg. Mine does not look nearly as good as yours, its been weather and branch beaten to death, but here it is. I have some custom mounting arms that bolts in a similar manner to your mounting system at the ROPS.

I didn't realize your tires were loaded too. You must have some steep slopes!

 

[dieselcrawler]

Leo, thanks for the picture. Any chance you have any of the mounting at the ROPS?

Yes, I have some slopes... 117 ac, and the only flat spots are where the house and barn were built! Alot of steep areas too, I attempt to claw my way up as much as I can, some I can only come down. I will have to get the wife to get a picture of me in action to illustrate the angle of the grade.

All tires loaded, front end loader, 5' piece of railroad track bolted in the bucket, and rear wheels 9" wider than stock widest setting... and I'm still thinking of a belly pan made of 1" steel to add low weight!

 

[redman135]

If you are going to run wheels that wide, why not run dual wheels? You will have a similar or greater width/ stability, AND the extra rubber makes a significant increase in traction. You can stick to a sidling much easier and in volcanic ash/ sand country you can climb a much steeper hill without digging holes than you think.

 

[dieselcrawler]

Redman: duals would be awesome. But with quite a price tag. I was able to make my spacers with metal I already had on hand, leftovers from other projects, all I had to buy was the bolts. Same is true for my cage project, the 2" box tube has black paint, because it was a ladder rack on my dually for the past dozen years! I found a better ladder rack, and reuse materials any chance I get.

But I have to agree, the extra traction from duals would be amazing.

 

[crashz]

Greg - next time I'm up there, I'll take a picture of the brackets. It won't be for a week or so though.

I've never seen wheels that far out before. Wow!

 

[Gordon Gould]

Great project Greg. I enjoy watching thing develop. Thanks for posting your ideas

gg

 

[sixdogs]

Duals don't have to be all that expensive. Just find used tires and wheels. Duals give more traction, yes, but their primary use around here is for flotation. The spacer arrangement is OK but I wonder about stress on the axle and shafts?

 

[dieselcrawler]

I factored in the added stress on the axles and bearings, then balanced that against operator stress and wife stress. I figured I could replace a few sets of wheel bearings more easily than my wife and kids could replace me.

Wife still tells me that if I roll it and live, she's gonna come out to make sure I'm ok, then kill me herself!

 

[dieselcrawler]

Having no 1-1/4" flat bar, I used a piece of 2-1/4" and cut 16 pieces at 1-1/4" long, thru which I drilled holes in a jig I clamped to the drill press table. These I will weld end to end, to make 1-1/4" x 4-1/2" with 3/8" holes. Few minutes Saturday, few on Sunday, not much, but progress.