To rebuild or not to rebuild this old engine?

   / To rebuild or not to rebuild this old engine? #61  
Nice... yet another example.

soundguy
 
   / To rebuild or not to rebuild this old engine?
  • Thread Starter
#62  
Any good suggestions for internet sites that sell reasonably priced engine parts for a 172 ci diesel engine?

I've checked out Phil's Tractor & Supply and Walt's tractors and I can pick up most of my shopping list, is there somewhere else you guys trust that I should check out??

My Shopping list:
1. Complete engine gasket set.
2. 0.02 sized piston - complete ring set
3. Main bearings (probably 0.001 undersized)
4. Rod Bearings (probably 0.001 undersized)

Thanks
Pete

PS Might be a few weeks. My wife side-swiped a (stationary) telephone pole last weekend :eek: and we have a $500 deductible. . . ugh.
 
   / To rebuild or not to rebuild this old engine? #63  
   / To rebuild or not to rebuild this old engine? #64  
I bought a cheap gasket set. It was worthless trash. The holes were punched in the wrong places, gaskets stretched too big, etc. I'd go to a NAPA and buy local. Buy junk, get junk.

Have you plastigaged the bearings? They may be fine...

jb


Oh, I know it's being a stickler, but bearing are OVERSIZE not undersized. The crank is ground down smaller, so the bearings have to be larger to keep the clearance the same. When I see "undersize" bearings, it's like fingernails on a chalk board for me. (Sorry!)
 
   / To rebuild or not to rebuild this old engine? #65  
I think pistons are oversized (unless you resleeve the cylinders), but technically speaking crank bearings would be undersized because the OD of the bearing shells stays the same but the ID is actually smaller than stock to compensate for the material removed from the crank journals. If they were "oversized", the clearance would be way out of spec, right?
 
   / To rebuild or not to rebuild this old engine?
  • Thread Starter
#66  
I think pistons are oversized (unless you resleeve the cylinders), but technically speaking crank bearings would be undersized because the OD of the bearing shells stays the same but the ID is actually smaller than stock to compensate for the material removed from the crank journals. If they were "oversized", the clearance would be way out of spec, right?

Yup. This engine's cyls were rebored for 0.02 oversized pistons (unsleeved block), so I will be buying a 0.02 oversized ring set. As I understand it for the bearing shells, your explanation seems correct. Seemed strange at first, shells only coming in undersizes, but when you think about it, it does make sense. I've looked at the shells and they seem to have a 001 stamped on them.
Pete
 
   / To rebuild or not to rebuild this old engine?
  • Thread Starter
#67  
I bought a cheap gasket set. It was worthless trash. The holes were punched in the wrong places, gaskets stretched too big, etc. I'd go to a NAPA and buy local. Buy junk, get junk.

So, do you think that these gasket sets that are being sold by Walt's and several others are junk? My worry is that there are soooo many little gaskets that I won't be able to find them at NAPA. Perhaps I need to take a trip to my local New Holland dealer?

Have you plastigaged the bearings? They may be fine...
I have not - on the list. There does appear to be some "minor" wear on the inner surface of the shells - at least as it compares to the pics in the ford shop manual. If I have to cut corners here I might just buy a set of rod bearings and reuse the main set.

Oh, I know it's being a stickler, but bearing are OVERSIZE not undersized. The crank is ground down smaller, so the bearings have to be larger to keep the clearance the same. When I see "undersize" bearings, it's like fingernails on a chalk board for me. (Sorry!)

Hmmmm. . . . everywhere I look bearings (both main and rod) seem to be advertised as either STD or "undersizes" of 0.001-0.002; 0.01-0.03. I guess I just figured that if you grind down the crankshaft, this would result in a smaller shaft OD. Consequently, a STD bearing shell would now have an ID that is larger than the OD of the shaft, creating a larger than spec gap between shell and shaft. To compensate you would use an "undersized" shell that has a smaller ID to match the smaller OD of the crankshaft. I would also expect that the stock material would have to be slightly thicker to keep the bearing OD the same. Am I wrong here? You may be right, but I'm having trouble picturing it. . . .sorry.
Pete
 
   / To rebuild or not to rebuild this old engine? #68  
Bearing sheels are so cheap.. If I cut corners i'd throw all the shells in.. same size as they came out, and not turn the crank / cam unless I saw gouges in the journals or bearing surfaces.. not really saving money by not putting new shells in.. of course.. you can plastigauge them and see how close to spec they are.. might be close enough to not mess with if oil pressure was good .. etc.

soundguy
 
   / To rebuild or not to rebuild this old engine? #69  
I think pistons are oversized (unless you resleeve the cylinders), but technically speaking crank bearings would be undersized because the OD of the bearing shells stays the same but the ID is actually smaller than stock to compensate for the material removed from the crank journals. If they were "oversized", the clearance would be way out of spec, right?

correct, shell bearings are sized to the crank, not the rod. If I recall from my former trade, pistons will have a + on them and the bearings will have a - on them.

Of course don't forget cam bearings and such. Easy to replace...if you have the right tool.
 
   / To rebuild or not to rebuild this old engine?
  • Thread Starter
#70  
Bearing sheels are so cheap.. If I cut corners i'd throw all the shells in.. same size as they came out, and not turn the crank / cam unless I saw gouges in the journals or bearing surfaces.. not really saving money by not putting new shells in.. of course.. you can plastigauge them and see how close to spec they are.. might be close enough to not mess with if oil pressure was good .. etc.

soundguy
Well, I'm definitely NOT going to turn the crank. The journals look spotless and there are no detectable gouges. I'm looking at about $70 for main and rod bearings, which isn't "cheap", but probably worth the investment at this point.

RobJ -
I haven't looked at the cam bearings, but plan to do so. I suspect like the other replaceable bearings, they're also in decent shape, and I can most likely get away without replacements. Moreover, depending on what you mean by the "right" tool, I suspect I don't have it. . . . :D. Good suggestion nonetheless. . . .

Haven't seen any + or - markings on pistons/bearings, but that doesn't mean they're not hidden. . . . the top of pistons are clearly marked .02 and backside of bearings have a part # and a 001 stamped on them. I'm guessing this means they're 0.001 undersized, but I haven't spec'd 'em with a plastigage yet.
-Pete
 

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