TRUCK AND TRAILER TEAM.

   / TRUCK AND TRAILER TEAM.
  • Thread Starter
#91  
1*your small toy TRUCKS can easily be towed with a half ton truck and a 7,000 lb car hauler type trailer.
2*As far money goes paying someone to haul a building, how many are you planning on buying?
My inlaws are moving and having a 10x20 shed they had built last year moved 45 miles for $200.
3*By the time you jump the cost of the truck and trailer to the point it can handle this, I bet you could pay them to move a build 30 - 40 times.
4*Of course, it is your money, what makes sense to you doesn't necessarily make sense to me.
5*BTW, I just bought a 16+2 car/utility trailer rated at 7k
to haul my NH - closer to 4,000 lbs w/ loader, loaded tires, and attachments. I wouldn't be afraid to put my Silverado (1/2 ton ECSB 5,500 lbs) on this trailer and tow it with my Suburban. But I probably wouldn't put my Suburban (6500 lbs) on it.
1*I'm leaning toward a 7,000 lb car hauler type trailer;
But A little more truck than a 1/2 ton as I want to be able to haul 2 to 4 thousand pounds in the bed of the truck an I'm not sure a 1/2 would be up to that.
Also would prefer a tilt bed trailer.
2-3*Agreed if the money jump was to very much more it would not be worth it just to maybe haul a smal build occasionally.
4*What you said makes much sense to me.
5* Is that 16' long with a 2 foot dove tail?
Thanks for the reply.

LB,
1*we are trying to help you.
2*I agree with you, LB just needs and a car hauler and1/2 Ton truck
3*If the weight isn't too much for a 1/2 Ton.
4*You won't be hauling a building everyday, unless that's the business you are wanting to do.
1*That's good cause I need all I can get.
2*I Think the 7000 pound car hauler is just what I need.
3*I think a 1/2 ton would handle towing the trailer.
But I don't think it can handle hauling 2 to 4 thousands pounds in the bed.
4*Not getting into that business.
Thanks for your input.
 
   / TRUCK AND TRAILER TEAM. #92  
Never too late to pile on.

I've found 3/4 ton to be perfect for me.

Current truck is an 1986 F250 with 351 gas and 3:55 rears. I've not yet hauled with it.

Last truck was 1993 GMC K2500 with 350 Gas and 4:10's. I pulled (please don't anyone pile on, I've been yelled at on other posts) over 15000lbs without the need to use low range. Pulled like a mother, had the 4 speed overdrive auto. I put a flat bed on it and she easily carried 3000+lbs of palleted block, did not know it was there and brakes were unafected.

Both with plows.

I highly recommed building a flat bed for the pick up, easy to load and unload, cost me $200 in metal to build, purchased used palet racking, cut up and welded up. Another plus, rusty bed trucks are short money, toss bed and replace with flat bed and you are ahead of the game in more than one way.

Trailer.
I paid $600 for an 18 foot 9 ton deck-over tri-axle tilt-bed dove tail trailer with ramps. I spent about $600 on parts and rebuilt the suspension and electric brakes. She handles a 12000 pound machine like it is not even there. Handles my 5000lb Kioti like popcorn.

I have a 14 foot single axle 7 foot wide utility trailer for the little stuff.

Summary, 3/4 ton can haul and pull anything I've run into. Love simplicity of Gas motor, junk yard full of them.
The bigger the trailer you can tollerate, the less chance you'll run into something that would not fit.

Joel
 
   / TRUCK AND TRAILER TEAM.
  • Thread Starter
#93  
Never too late to pile on.

I've found 3/4 ton to be perfect for me.

Current truck is an 1986 F250 with 351 gas and 3:55 rears. I've not yet hauled with it.

Last truck was 1993 GMC K2500 with 350 Gas and 4:10's. I pulled (please don't anyone pile on, I've been yelled at on other posts) over 15000lbs without the need to use low range. Pulled like a mother, had the 4 speed overdrive auto. I put a flat bed on it and she easily carried 3000+lbs of palleted block, did not know it was there and brakes were unafected.

Both with plows.

I highly recommed building a flat bed for the pick up, easy to load and unload, cost me $200 in metal to build, purchased used palet racking, cut up and welded up. Another plus, rusty bed trucks are short money, toss bed and replace with flat bed and you are ahead of the game in more than one way.

Trailer.
I paid $600 for an 18 foot 9 ton deck-over tri-axle tilt-bed dove tail trailer with ramps. I spent about $600 on parts and rebuilt the suspension and electric brakes. She handles a 12000 pound machine like it is not even there. Handles my 5000lb Kioti like popcorn.

I have a 14 foot single axle 7 foot wide utility trailer for the little stuff.

Summary, 3/4 ton can haul and pull anything I've run into. Love simplicity of Gas motor, junk yard full of them.
The bigger the trailer you can tollerate, the less chance you'll run into something that would not fit.

Joel
Good informative post.
 
   / TRUCK AND TRAILER TEAM.
  • Thread Starter
#94  
1*Never too late to pile on.
2*Current truck is an 1986 F250 with 351 gas and 3:55 rears. I've not yet hauled with it.
I put a flat bed on it and she easily carried 3000+lbs of palleted block, did not know it was there and brakes were unafected.
3*I highly recommed building a flat bed for the pick up, easy to load and unload.
4*Another plus, rusty bed trucks are short money, toss bed and replace with flat bed and
5* you are ahead of the game in more than one way.
~~~~~~~`Trailer.~~~~~~~~~~
6**I paid $600 for an 18 foot 9 ton deck-over tri-axle tilt-bed dove tail trailer with ramps.

Summary, 3/4 ton can haul and pull anything I've run into. Love simplicity of Gas motor, junk yard full of them.
The bigger the trailer you can tollerate, the less chance you'll run into something that would not fit.
Joel

1*True and glad you chimed in.
2*Got any pictures of this truck?
3*Any others reason for the recommendation?
4* and 5*What other ways are you ahead of the game?
6*sounds about like what I have in mind.
It would be nice to see pictures of the trailer.
 
   / TRUCK AND TRAILER TEAM. #95  
Here is a picture of the trailer loaded with Kioti.

And here is a picture of the GMC.
 

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   / TRUCK AND TRAILER TEAM. #96  
here is the f250

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...94-got-new-kioti-hauler-last.html#post1523707

buying a rusty bed truck is usally short money, people are intimidated by the rust on the bed, but if the frame, gas tank mounts, spring hangers and the like are solid, then no worries, replace with flat bed and you are good.

I think a flatbed with stake sides (super easy to weld up with angle iron, one size bigger for the pockets and the smaller size for the stakes and rails) is easier to load and unload, sweep snow and off, etc.

Not to mention, pull the wood off of the flat bed and you can get to everything (brake lines, fuel tank and lines, etc.) much easier than with bed on.

I paid less than 2000 for the GMC and less than 2000 for the ford, both with plow set ups.

I put about 1500 into the GMC over the couple of years I owned it and about the same for the ford so far (new tires, new upper and lower ball joints, front axle universal joints). With the number of miles I put on my big truck (daily driver is a 2x4 2002 ford ranger) which are very little (2-5 thousand at most per year) I can not justify paying much more than I do for them. I sold my GMC for about 2000 (the frame had started to rust bad and all the fuel lines were going bad, particulalry with the frame rot I was too nervous to haul with it anymore). So once you get the first one, moving from one to the next is not a total loss and does not cost a whole lot to go onto the next. Where I live, anything that runs with a plow is worth at least something.

Another nice thing about the older trucks is the availability of parts, you can find complete parts trucks, in some cases running for 500 or so.

Joel
 
   / TRUCK AND TRAILER TEAM.
  • Thread Starter
#97  
122080d1235216516t-truck-trailer-team-truck-two.jpg

1*picture of the GMC.


2*picture of the trailer
1*I like the truck if only the bed would dump.
How hard would it be to convert it to dump?
2*Nice trailer but I only need a 2 axle.
I think a 16 or 18 foot tilt bed deck over or between the wheels bed trailer would be about rite for my needs.
How hard would it be to convert a manual tilt to a
hydraulic tilt?
Thanks for the post & pictures: It's been very helpful.
 
   / TRUCK AND TRAILER TEAM.
  • Thread Starter
#98  
buying a rusty bed truck is usally short money, people are intimidated by the rust on the bed, but if the frame, gas tank mounts, spring hangers and the like are solid, then no worries, replace with flat bed and you are good.

I think a flatbed with stake sides (super easy to weld up with angle iron, one size bigger for the pockets and the smaller size for the stakes and rails) is
*easier to load and unload, and sweep snow off, etc.
*How would you unload 3 or 4 thousand pounds of dirt sand or gravel off of it?
 
   / TRUCK AND TRAILER TEAM.
  • Thread Starter
#99  
1*LB, I think you need to break up your looking into two separate parts to reduce the variables. First, decide on the maximum weight and size you will need to haul on the trailer, and then find a trailer that will meet your needs. If you want a deckover, comcentrate on available deckovers. When you find one, find out how much it weighs and what its GVWR is.

2*Next, figure out how much weight you want to put on the truck: 10-15% of the combined weight of the trailer and the load, for tongue weight; actual load in the bed; driver, passengers, tools, equipment, and hitch. You will then be able to decide on a truck, which must carry the total load (differnece between GVWR and unloaded weight), and must be able to tow the trailer (GCWR minus GVWR). You should be able to determine unladen weight, GVWR, and GCWR from the sticker on the door pillar of the truck.

By the way, on your '71 F-250, the max GVWR was 7500, and the truck probably weighed in excess of 4500. Sof if your loads exceeded 3000 including driver, fluids, etc., then you were overloaded. I had a '67 IH 1200A Campermobile, GVW was 7300, and weight empty was 4660 (had to weigh for Calif. tags). I put about 4500 of sand on it one day; it sure handled squirrely. Bever did that again!!

Good luck shopping.

3*P.S. Allow a reserve of at least 10%, don't try to actually reach the max.
1*&2* that's pretty much the trail I'm on now.
3*The heaviest thing I will be hauling is my 2910 pound Dodge D 50 pick up.
Looks like a 7000 pound trailer would be more than enough even adding another 1000 pounds to the pick up for gas myself and other miscellaneous variables.
 
   / TRUCK AND TRAILER TEAM. #100  
*How would you unload 3 or 4 thousand pounds of dirt sand or gravel off of it?

You could mount a conversion hoist. Venco makes several models for pickups and for platforms on pickup chassis, with a capacity of 6000 pounds. Their website is Venco Pickup Hoists. There are others as well. You would also need to factor in the extra weight of the hoist in your truck GVRW.
 

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