brush hogging problems

[greenmule]

Well well,looks like the helps arrived!

no my grass is not in an orchard,gets plenty of sun,looks like a meadow[well maybe not a meadow in fl.] but its thick/tall.Blue grass is not always in ky. either.

And as far as kk not building something that you can do what book says,yeah,maybe they did!!

You can set it the way book says,its just I don't want to cause [like said] front will dig into dirt easy,don't want that,but the main reason I don't use it that way is cause I don't have to,get it,it cuts fine level[plus front don't dig into dirt every time I go over a dip.

You don't have to set rear up 3-4 inches higher like book says,don't care who says you do,nor do I care what kk's book says,just care how it works for me.

The guy was asking how to set up a brush hog,he's got an idea now,the book way might work best for him,my way might just work fine for him as well,but he'll know nothings set in stone here and thats good info for a newbie.

He also oughta use a chain for top link,makes rear wheel stay on ground more better.Any thoughts on that??

 

[SPYDERLK]

Most have an articulated link that gives several inches of slack in the top setup so the hog can float on the lift arms with the back end able to move up and down freely several inches. A chain can allow more. Are your lift arms extended with a QA?
larry

 

[greenmule]

No no quick attach,yeah this one came with a u shaped piece of steel that was supposed to serve that pupose,but it didn't work the way you would need it to,tried it several times and ways,but no.

Solid top link serves a few puposes,and its a trade off using chain,but if you know your land,and are just cutting grass/weeds and are not transporting it raised down the road,chain serves my purpose,it lets rear float over dips,you can adjust it for more or less give,it keeps your pto drive line together[keeping rear from going to far down],and can even raise rear wheel a few inches off ground with the way its set.

Just don't run over stuff where front will catch and rear come up and don't back up into something thats going to raise rear up to much and jam drive line,so theres some trade off's like said.

But high grass spots and the rear wheel banging into ground wasn't working for me.

 

[eastexan]

Yeah well we both know what we're talking about than cause so do I,I been hoging on a tractor for 30 some years off and on,so..

On a kk [like I've said but will say it once more],if you set tail wheel to its highest postion and you want front to be 3-4 inches lower[yeah know how three point works,but thanks],your front will be about touching ground,least on the one I got now.Than when you mow on unlevel dippy ground,your fronts going to dig in,alot.

I also know what the books say.

Plus,like I said,no reason to worry about this at all, my ck30 goes through 4 ft tall thick,damp orchard grass,lays it down behind me in one piece,doesn't lug motor a bit,so,just make it easy on your self and set it about level all around. Maybe a finish mower[which I ain't got] yeah,front lower than rear,maybe if your hog was to big for your tractor,yeah,but on my 5ft hog with ck30,no.

I'll have to go with FarmWithJunk on this one. If you keep your mower deck exactly level then maybe it would cut the grass only once. And if it works for you, great. I can see how it might make the grass a bit smoother since the blades would be touching the grass evenly all the way around. That may work fine for you with orchard grass.

But for the OP, if you have the rear of the deck even a little lower than the front, then as you pass over the grass, the blades will cut it at the front of the deck. And then as the rear of the deck passes over, the blades being closer to the ground at the rear, will cut it again.

By having the rear of the deck slightly higher, then the grass gets cut only once, at the front of the deck. This also lets the grass and debris exit easily out the back. (BTW FarmWithJunk said 1"-2", not 3"-4")

It's also safer. With the kind of heavy mowing that I do, I use the brush cutter for what it was designed to do, heavy brush, sprouts, tough weeds & grass, etc.
I have been surprised different times while mowing with hidden fallen branches, rocks, or other debris. And having the rear of the mower slightly higher than the front allows the chunks of wood or rocks more likely to be thrown out the back of the deck, than toward the operator.

The mowing height is a matter of personal preference. I prefer the deck at the front to be about 3" off the ground, but that's just my preference.

MF180, at first I thought maybe your problem was not enough HP for the 6' brush cutter, but if your name implies that you have a Massey 180, then it has plenty of HP for the cutter.

Just to guess, I would suggest what others have. They had good suggestions. You might try putting your tractor in a lower gear, and make sure your RPM level is correct (probably 540rpm). And since you just bought your used cutter, it would be good to make sure it's ready for service by checking for loose bolts, etc., check the sharpness of the blades, and check the gear oil, if you haven't done that already. And raise your deck at the tail wheel slightly higher than the front, so your blades will be only cutting the grass once.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Yeah well we both know what we're talking about than cause so do I,I been hoging on a tractor for 30 some years off and on,so..

On a kk [like I've said but will say it once more],if you set tail wheel to its highest postion[rear of mower being at highest postion] and you want front to be 3-4 inches lower[yeah know how three point works,but thanks],your front will be about touching ground,least on the one I got now.Than when you mow on unlevel dippy ground,your fronts going to dig in,alot.

I also know what the books say.

Plus,like I said,no reason to worry about this at all, my ck30 goes through 4 ft tall thick,damp orchard grass,lays it down behind me in one piece,doesn't lug motor a bit,so,just make it easy on your self and set it about level all around. Maybe a finish mower[which I ain't got] yeah,front lower than rear,maybe if your hog was to big for your tractor,yeah,but on my 5ft hog with ck30,no.

Just 30 years? I have a son who's way past that, and grandson who's not far behind you.....

My "history" with tractors and bush hogs goes back a bit further.... (Closer to 50 of my 62 years)

Sounds like you've got a botched up mess of a set-up if you can't run that mower without it digging in on the corners unless it's set up wrong. Might be time to ease up on the "I know everything I need to know" and listen to a few folks who've spent more time bush hogging ONE SUMMER than you've logged in a lifetime. You might wanna take a listen to the folks who design and build the best mowers money can buy too.

It's not about if the motor lugs or not.

Your reading comprehension is a little suspect too. NO ONE (with the exception of you) mentioned 3" to 4" lower in the front. As I said, the CORRECT way is 1" to 2". We won't even go into the issue of how a mower set at the desired height in front would suddenly be LOWER if the rear was set to the correct height. Not buyin' that claim at all......

But then again, what would I know???? I just make a living with these things.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Well well,looks like the helps arrived!

no my grass is not in an orchard,gets plenty of sun,looks like a meadow[well maybe not a meadow in fl.] but its thick/tall.Blue grass is not always in ky. either.

And as far as kk not building something that you can do what book says,yeah,maybe they did!!

You can set it the way book says,its just I don't want to cause [like said] front will dig into dirt easy,don't want that,but the main reason I don't use it that way is cause I don't have to,get it,it cuts fine level[plus front don't dig into dirt every time I go over a dip.

You don't have to set rear up 3-4 inches higher like book says,don't care who says you do,nor do I care what kk's book says,just care how it works for me.

The guy was asking how to set up a brush hog,he's got an idea now,the book way might work best for him,my way might just work fine for him as well,but he'll know nothings set in stone here and thats good info for a newbie.

He also oughta use a chain for top link,makes rear wheel stay on ground more better.Any thoughts on that??

So let's get this straight.....We're answering a question posed by a relatively inexperienced (ie impressionable) person who admittedly knows little about how to set up a bush hog. So YOU seem to think instructing him to do so in a manner contradictory to everything that every major manufacturer says, contradictory to what most all users, and even contradictory to the opinion of someone who owns and operates mowers as a profession, logging more hours (personally) in an average summer than most people do in a LIFETIME.......is sound advice? Alrighty now.......! That speaks volumes.......



Also, for the record, Orchardgrass is a species of grass, not grass in an orchard.

And while we're at it, there is actually very little "Bluegrass" in the Bluegrass State. Most of what we're cutting here is a mix of Fescues, Brome, Johnsongrass and weeds.

 

[greenmule]

Think book says about 3 inches,you was quoting books were you not?

Thing I'm trying to say here is,you can set your hog up differently than you and still cut grass just fine,just got done cutting about 10 acres and the way I say works just fine,your way works just fine for you.

Also saying if you set my cutter up like you say,front will be too low for me,I could make a little welding/cutting chango in about an hour and be able to do as you say with front being up to my liking,but can't figure out why I would want to do that seeing mine cuts fine.

And you keep saying about all your years of experience and the fact that you cut grass for a living,alright,I got that,you don't have to convince me,but seeing as we have never met or talked and are just internet buddies,will do it my own way,but thank you.

Nothing wrong with disagreeing,no need to get mad about it,is there?

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Think book says about 3 inches,you was quoting books were you not?

Thing I'm trying to say here is,you can set your hog up differently than you and still cut grass just fine,just got done cutting about 10 acres and the way I say works just fine,your way works just fine for you.

Also saying if you set my cutter up like you say,front will be too low for me,I could make a little welding/cutting chango in about an hour and be able to do as you say with front being up to my liking,but can't figure out why I would want to do that seeing mine cuts fine.

And you keep saying about all your years of experience and the fact that you cut grass for a living,alright,I got that,you don't have to convince me,but seeing as we have never met or talked and are just internet buddies,will do it my own way,but thank you.

Nothing wrong with disagreeing,no need to get mad about it,is there?

I'm not getting mad.....Why? ARE YOU? In fact, I'm starting to laugh at some of what I'm reading.

You say setting the mower (correctly) "my way" makes the front end too low.... Not sure why you'd say that, as it can be set at ANY height you so desire, from dragging the ground to all the way raised. Once again, your mowing height is determined by 3-point hitch and set at height needed. THEN the rear of the mower is set 1" to 2" higher, gauged by the tailwheel(s). It's not rocket science.

Not sure what "book" you're referring to (Possibly MAD Magazine???? ) I'm referring to owners manuals and tech service bulletins from Bush Hog, Alamo Group (Shulte/Rhino/Alamo) Woods, Landpride, ect...... As well as the commonly accepted (and often posted) successful methods of MOST end users of bush hog type cutters.

What I find so strange is, I know probably 20 people (Locally and on TBN) who own a KK 5' mower. NONE, NOT ONE of them relates any simular set-up problems you're having.

 

[NSBound]

Jeez, guys, time to take yer "anti-ornery pills" and take a break !

 

[greenmule]

I know orchard grass is a species of grass,[somebody else didn't],read my post again if you doubt it.:

Again,every situation is different,I was telling the man the way I do it[which works well by the way,lets not forget that],wasn't telling him what you said was wrong,you're the one thats been saying people is wrong.[me]

The way you do it is the way the book says to do it,I agree there,its just that way ain't the only way and just cause thats the way,don't mean its written in stone. He ain't going to hurt his self doing it my way or his equipement you do know that right?

Their is more than one way to skin a cat,now he knows two ways,maybe he'll come up with third way that works for him.

Now I would suggest to the op that if he's got a nice kinda level area thats just grass,that he take top link off and try it,he'll learn something else, he might learn why chain might work better for you than solid top link.

Thats probably against established rules too?