Winter traction.....

   / Winter traction..... #1  

sms0000

Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2009
Messages
46
Location
Ontario, Canada
Tractor
Kubota B3200
Anybody ever try studs (screw type) in their tires for snow/icy conditions? Silly question maybe but I've seen guys put studs in the big lugs of their atv tires.....why wouldn't it work for tractors? You could remove them after the snow's gone. I've got R4 industrial tires big deep lugs or is chains the way to go? I'll be clearing the cottage roads hilly/icy in some sections.
 
   / Winter traction..... #2  
I bet studded tires would make a world of difference compared to no studs. Studs in a truck or car sure do. Chains would be easier to install and take back off every year though. And they would work better too for the conditions you describe.
 
   / Winter traction..... #3  
Around here lots of snow contractors use truck studs on tractor tires.
(however in some regions vehicle weight limits stud use)

El Cheepo version is to use hardened self tapping sheetmetal screws that you simply screw into the big lugs (lots of debth to accept them). Works great on ice surfaces.
Simply predrill a small pilot hole and drive them in.
My buddy did that last winter and really likes the results, however he never drives on paved roads so they really lasted him well.
 
   / Winter traction..... #4  
I have R4's and they are like having racing slicks in snow/ice.

My 2210 had Turf tires on it, and they did more than these R4's on my 2520 do.
Its sad. I love them in the summer, but HATE them in the winter. I have a huge set of v bar chains that I use on the rears so I can move. I also use over 1,000lbs of rear ballast.
 
   / Winter traction..... #6  
;)Get Ags
4Get Chain's:)
__________________

Yes, learn how to sit in one spot for hours one end when the the wet snow falls and Ice prevails.:D
 
   / Winter traction..... #7  
I know I am going to get bashed for this but R4's are not much good on a tractor. I have had used them and hated them. I can not see why they are so popular? I guess they do look good but thats about it. R1's out perform them in every way when it comes to working in dirt, mud, snow, ect. Ice is ice and nothing but stud or chains are going to improve the situation. I would try some R1's first then if needed do something else.

Chris
 
   / Winter traction.....
  • Thread Starter
#8  
I don't think AG's are any better on ice than R4's .........as said above "ice is ice". I think I'm gonna try studs this winter instead of chains. I have mudlite tires on my atv (essentialy ags for atv's) and they aren't worth nothin' on ice.
 
   / Winter traction..... #9  
Nothing Cooler Looking than R4's but I had them for a while and went back to AG Lugs. The R4's would spin and not do much damage. The AG Tires would dig down to the Frame in no time.. Its where you use them that matters. I like Ice Studs but Chains are easy to remove in the Spring. Both make you safer.
 
   / Winter traction..... #10  
In winter, I have installed tire-studs continously from opening time until night.

Thank goodness my state finally outlawed their use on highways.

That being said, ask around tire-shops for any no-longer-needed air-operated stud-guns and any left over ice-studs.

Genuine tire-studs are soft metal outside with a carbide pin/core that will get sharp as a needle.

For an un-pinned application, you would have to drill a 1/4 to 3/8 deep hole, about 5/32 size, for every stud.

Dip the stud-gun fingers in some kind of lubricant and shoot the stud into the hole.

This is tedious and time-consuming, let alone causing blisters through three pairs of gloves.

You would be well advised to just sit by the stove and let someone else be out in the cold.;)
 
   / Winter traction..... #11  
Not quite sure how this system works: I drive the screws into the lugs, and then the lugs go where? Onto a chain? Into the tire?
thx

Around here lots of snow contractors use truck studs on tractor tires.
(however in some regions vehicle weight limits stud use)

El Cheepo version is to use hardened self tapping sheetmetal screws that you simply screw into the big lugs (lots of debth to accept them). Works great on ice surfaces.
Simply predrill a small pilot hole and drive them in.
My buddy did that last winter and really likes the results, however he never drives on paved roads so they really lasted him well.
 
   / Winter traction..... #13  
I think the poker rules for tires on ICE are as follows:rolleyes::rolleyes:
Studs in any type of tire beat any type of tire alone. Chains on any type of tire beats any type of tire alone. Chains on any type of tire beat studs in any type of tire. Chains on a two wheel drive will beat most unchained four wheel drive tires. Chains on a four wheel drive beat chains on a two wheel drive ---- get a set of chains -- why put holes in the treads of your tire? Once you get a slick set up for taking on and off the chains you will wonder why you did not do it before -- JMHO based on a long driveway with a hill in the middle that faces east west and is partially shaded:eek: (funny it seems to get icy)
Machold -- the studs or screws just screw into the lugs -- the rubber holds them very well
 
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   / Winter traction..... #14  
any tire is worthless on pack snow and ice, including ags. I put chains on a pair of spare turf tires that are loaded, those are my winter tires for the tractor, normal size garden tractor chains and ags dont work as well as many of the chain sections fall down between the lugs and do nothing. I can see where studs would work well in an area with lots of icy conditions, but I would want them on a dedicated set of winter tires, the work to install and uninstall would get old fast. Chains you just take off and hang on the wall till next season.
 
   / Winter traction..... #15  
Get a pair of double ring chains. Unbeatable traction in snow, ice and mud. They do make for a rough ride if you have to drive far to do the snow removal. I'll do the immediate neighbors, but will not go more than a 1/4 mile on the road with chains, it's just too rough a ride.
 
   / Winter traction..... #16  
I won't go on the road EVER, because the salt eats everything.
 
   / Winter traction..... #17  
I won't go on the road EVER, because the salt eats everything.


AGREED.


I wish they would outlaw salt usage on highways and make people learn how to drive with some sense.

Around my area, we might get 1/2-inch of snow, once a winter, and it is gone by mid-morning; but, they will use enough salt to thaw out Chicago.

They salt the roads heavily whenever a light frost is predicted; and, by mid-December, big piles of loose salt are wind-rowed at every intersection; I'd rather drive on solid ice.:cool:
 
   / Winter traction..... #18  
I never understood why they can't use sand. Its cheap, gets heat from the sun, and is gritty.
 
   / Winter traction..... #19  
I think studs are effective on ice but not nearly as effective in snow; you would be better off doing it right and getting chains. You could chain your fronts - less expensive and you have good steering (if 4x4). You would also have to be careful not to overload your front axle.
 
   / Winter traction..... #20  
I think studs are effective on ice but not nearly as effective in snow; you would be better off doing it right and getting chains. You could chain your fronts - less expensive and you have good steering (if 4x4). You would also have to be careful not to overload your front axle.

When you say overload the front axle, what do you mean? Torque loads?

I have a paved 1/4 mile drop on a slope that is hard to walk up. With ice it is a charmer with a 100 foot drop to one side and a mountain providing shade on the other. I need to plow it and I can with 4x4 and 8-10 inches of snow. The snow is my brake. But an inch of ice and I am not going there. So I was planning to run chains on the front only. The install is easy by lifting the front with the loader. I realize that this could create bind conditions since the fronts are not the same running circumference as the rears when in 4x4, but on traction surfaces I would go to 2WD and in the ice or mud, it is self policing. The fronts are cheaper and while I have a locker in the rear, I don't on the front axle.

But overload, I don't follow that. Any other thoughts on why my approach might be flawed?

Thanks.
 

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