John Deere 4300 complete rebuild

[woodlandfarms]

I am intrigued in your gauge fix. Want to hear how it lasts. I have heard armor all off gasses, and wonder if that will cloud the glass.

 

[3RRL]

Hi Dave,
Just wanted to comment on your massive project.
I just finished reading up to date and man, I am impressed with your will power and tenacity. Better yet is the thorough documentation and loads of photos showing your progress. It just blows my mind that you're doing all this and then are going to sell the tractor. If I did that, it would never leave my ranch!
Your rebuild is excellent!!

 

[Johndeere3720]

I just got a rare simplicity 9518 tractor yesterday to restore. So far im looking online for a new air filter since the old one is shot. I will be keeping it and possibly bringing it to the tractor shows. I cant wait to start working on it. This is one of the threads that inspired me to take on this project.

 

[dfkrug]

[
I've got two clips that go in from the bottom which hold everything in place.

Very interesting, Wayne. I see how yours works to hold the door by its
hinge pin. But that leaves no place for spring(s) to hold it closed, like
Kenny has. And if you use Kenny's setup, there is no way to fit that
black plastic clip. I see the plastic clip in my parts book (19B), but I had
no idea that I needed it. I suspect the dual springs approach may be a
newer attempt at a solution to hold the door closed and not rattle. I
imagine that yours rattles like Matt's does. So I wonder why my latest
model hood can work with only one spring....

I guess I will make something that works like your black plastic piece, but
with a hole so the spring can be used, too.

Thanks for the pix....they were quite helpful.

 

[dfkrug]

I am intrigued in your gauge fix. Want to hear how it lasts. I have heard armor all off gasses, and wonder if that will cloud the glass.

I was concerned about the Armorall fix, too. I kick myself for not having
a 'before' photo of the instrument panel. It was just horrible. I think the
replacement was something like $300 and the hour meter would be new
(and wrong). I passed up an oppy to buy a used cluster on eBay last
spring....I think it sold for only $50-75, if I recall.

Here is what I did: I cleaned all of the black backing with rubbing alcohol,
being very careful around the tach, fuel, and temp needles. I let it sit
for a few days. Then I used the Armorall on it, letting it sit for a day
between 2 coats. I kept it open for a week or two in a dust-free area.
Then and only then did I put the new lens and rubber gasket on. I set
it aside in the packing box to see how it aged. That was back in about
June or July. It has held up extremely well. The new lens and gasket
were reasonably priced.

 

[dfkrug]

It just blows my mind that you're doing all this and then are going to sell the tractor.

Hey, Rob, thx! If my workshop was as big as yours, I would prob keep it
longer. If it had AG tires, I would have an extra hard time selling it. You
never know when I will get my Kioti stuck in the mud... I am intrigued with
how well the JD will work with a backhoe, too.

Anyway, I have to fund the next project, right?

 

[Wayne_H]

Yea, my fuel lid hinge does not rattle at all, although only gravity is holding it in place. I'd think the springs would be something else to break. The only time I've seen my fuel lid lifted is when I trailered it.

Good luck

Waynd

 

[mjncad]

WayneH beat me to the punch with the fuel door photos. His is the same setup as mine. Gravity holds the door closed and the two rubber bumpers keep it from rattling. I've had it blow open if a strong wind catches it just right.

I'll post the photos since I shot them this afternoon; but Wayne's fuel cap is cleaner than mine.

 

[mjncad]

GDO (garage door opener) Remote.

That's an interesting place to hide it. I have mine in a baggie in the fender glove box.

 

[dfkrug]

...Wayne's fuel cap is cleaner than mine.

Well, tractors are made to get dirty. Thx for posting. Here is my
solution. I am not using the clips or spring, and I am certainly not going
to order that last plastic bit. I tossed the hinge pin, and dug up a longer
piece of 3/16 rod. I drilled thru the hood to accommodate a longer hinge
pin....this kept the door secure. Then I dug up a torsion spring (I have a
lot of crap around here, some of it useful) and re-bent the ends (with
heat) so they fit into the existing spring holes. Works great!