Any tips for 1 man implement hook-up?

[Ken45101]

Only for the seruoisly minded wanting a quick hitch 3 point hitch | 3 point quick hitch | 3 point tractor hitch | The Deltahook

Wow! Now that does look nice, although expensive

Has anyone here actually used one?

Ken

 

[Gem99ultra]

Only for the seruoisly minded wanting a quick hitch 3 point hitch | 3 point quick hitch | 3 point tractor hitch | The Deltahook

Very nice quick hitch! Do you use this system?

Thanks for the link; Delta QH will definitely be on my wish list.

Jim

 

[The Dougster]

I just checked the web site for carter's EZ Hitch system.... I looks like it will accomplish the same things as Pat's and way cheaper... Think I'll order some next week... Thanks for the tip.

 

[flINTLOCK]

I like dollies for my inside stored implements. Those outside are easy with telescoping lift arms on NH TC40 DA and CCM hydraulic top link. Definitely best on level ground. If not level, hook lower pin first then raise the 3-pt to level out the pins.

 

[Tom_H]

All of my implements are on homemade custom dollies. They are inexpensive to make (and fun, LOL). I take the cars out of the garage, move the tractor from its single bay to the double bay where the cars were, and roll the chosen implement to the 3ph. Good casters make it possible to allign pins and arms easily and quickly, pulling or pushing the implement with one hand while adjusting the 3ph arm with the other.

 

[Steve C]

You can buy all kinds of stuff to make it easier, but if you just get mean with the hardware and push it around it will go on and off very quickly. I find it helps if I lower my 3 point to the elevation of the lowest pin and start there, put the boots to it if I have to. Then I go to the other side and raise the arm with my hand to line it up. Sometimes I grab the lugs on the tractor tire and roll it back and forth to help line things up. If that doesn't work I grab the end of the implement and just horse it around a little. Half an implement is a lot easer to push around than the entire thing. The box blade and tiller are the worse ones, they just seem to weld themselves to the ground.

I just got back from the barn after putting my finish mower away for the winter. I had to get my 7 foot rear blade out in preperation for the coming snow season. It was behind my 6 foot tiller so I had to move that and get it out of the way. I don't know what kind of dumb a** would have put it there, the friggin tiller is heavy! Oh thats right, that would be me...

I dropped the 72 inch mower in the east end of my silver barn, then I went and got the tiller out of the lean to and put it in the east end of the silver barn next to the mower. Then I connected my 7 foot grader blade and put it in the east end of the red barn against the wall dropped it there and went out in the field where I had left my 5 foot box blade and dirt scoop out in the weather. I hooked up the box blade and dropped it in the lean to where the tiller used to be and then I went and got the dirt scoop and put it next to the box blade. I did this in about 45 minutes of messing around (I did a little grading with the 7 foot blade before I dropped it in the red barn). All it takes is a little practice and a good pair of boots to help adjust things. If you don't like jerking around on 400-500# implements get a good long steel pry bar and take it with you. You can move the world with a 36" Stanley Fat Max and a little 6 inch square of plywood to stop it from sinking into the ground, all without breaking a sweat. Or if you are on a budget and have no further need for a good wrecking bar then a 4 or 5 foot length of 2x4 will work also.

 

[jenkinsph]

I think the dollies to move the equipment around for inside storage are a good way to go. Would certainly enable you to store your implements in less space.


Kicking around my 1250 lb boxblade though is not an option. Leaving the seat without the brakes set is not an option either. With an I Match neither is necessary.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I use the dolly for everything I have. Harbor Freight had Furniture Dollys that were 24x36 or 12x18 on sale a year ago for $10 each. I wish I would have bought 20 of them but like a dumb A___ I only got 4 of each. I actually used them this summer to move a car up against the wall putting one under each tire.

You can not by 4 casters for $10 to make your own. I actually took apart a few of them to make a dolly for my Bush Hog and one of my 2 bottom plow because I needed something larger.

Chris

 

[jenkinsph]

I use the dolly for everything I have. Harbor Freight had Furniture Dollys that were 24x36 or 12x18 on sale a year ago for $10 each. I wish I would have bought 20 of them but like a dumb A___ I only got 4 of each. I actually used them this summer to move a car up against the wall putting one under each tire.

You can not by 4 casters for $10 to make your own. I actually took apart a few of them to make a dolly for my Bush Hog and one of my 2 bottom plow because I needed something larger.

Chris

You are right that you can't buy 4 casters for $10 but luckily for me I have built service trucks for my business that use rollaway tool chest to make up the bodies. Since I have purchased about 30 rollaway tool carts I have at least 24 sets of heavy duty casters at my disposal. Here is a night shot of one of my trucks.

 

[bigdad]

I use Pat's easy change and a hydraulic top link. I need to make the pvc pipe for a few implements though. JC

I made one out of a long 1/2 inch turnbuckle. Kept the reverse thread side...heated and bent a right angle out of the eye. Bought a piece of 1/2 inch threaded stock for the right hand side and bent a right in the end of it. The right angle ends fit right in Pat's receivers.

I just screw the turnbuckle in and out to adjust. Works great!

 

[patrick_g]

I use the Harbor Freight quick-hitch with a lot of success. The only stuff that I can't use it with are inexpensive implements from China that don't provide enough clearance for the top hook. The HF hitch is identical to brand name QHs for a fraction of the cost. I'm not a big guy, so it's a real time and $%^*& saver.

In previous years I was 6'2" and 263 lbs. I broke several 2x6 boards used to pry implements. before getting Pat's EZ hitch system. I have also built caster wheeled dolly for a few implements. They help.

Now weighing in at 200 lbs I find I appreciate Pat's system even more as I don't get as much levering action as I did previously.

I don't care how big or strong you are, 3ph implements can be a PITA to swap. Anything you can do to make it easier is a good thing. I find that systems that accommodate varying width implements with little or no fuss are way better than the ones that don't. Pat's system is one that I use and really like. It is quite robust. I abuse it but it it just works. I broke an arm in half but the Pat's accessory was not harmed. The arm was welded and reinforced and lives on with Pat's attachment still attached. There may be others that do as well but I don't see how one could be much better.

Pat (but not THAT Pat)

 

[Rebel]

mburke121 sometimes I use a spud bar to carefully nudge attachments into position. I use to strong arm everything but now regard leverage as my best friend. It's not quite 6' long...very handy pioneer tool around the farm.

When you absolutely positively have to move a 500lb item 1" or 1 foot...time for Mr spud bar.

X2! Very handy to to have around

 

[Steve C]

X2! Very handy to to have around

Our local Harbor Freight (65 miles away) had those on sale a couple of weeks ago, they ran out before I got over there. I have some poles that I need to replace next year and those things work great for that also.

 

[gumshu]

In previous years I was 6'2" and 263 lbs. I broke several 2x6 boards used to pry implements. before getting Pat's EZ hitch system. I have also built caster wheeled dolly for a few implements. They help.

Now weighing in at 200 lbs I find I appreciate Pat's system even more as I don't get as much levering action as I did previously.

I don't care how big or strong you are, 3ph implements can be a PITA to swap. Anything you can do to make it easier is a good thing. I find that systems that accommodate varying width implements with little or no fuss are way better than the ones that don't. Pat's system is one that I use and really like. It is quite robust. I abuse it but it it just works. I broke an arm in half but the Pat's accessory was not harmed. The arm was welded and reinforced and lives on with Pat's attachment still attached. There may be others that do as well but I don't see how one could be much better.

Pat (but not THAT Pat)

Yeap!. I have two Pat's systems and furniture dollies I bought from Harbor Freight to set implements on and move around. Works great.

 

[bobsphotos]

I use Pat's and C&C hyd top link- easy enough to do alone now.

I use the Pat's system and am thinking about adding the hyd. top link. Do you find it hard to get the top link moved to the correct length when you hook up? My control lever for my power beyond is up towards the front of the seat.

 

[DaveOmak]

Mike, I got plenty tired of wrestling with my roto-tiller. Got so tired of it winning I hung it. Works pretty darn good. Hope this gave you some ideas. Dave

 

[jenkinsph]

Mike, I got plenty tired of wrestling with my roto-tiller. Got so tired of it winning I hung it. Works pretty darn good. Hope this gave you some ideas. Dave

Wow that really makes me appreciate having the I Match. I still have to get off to hook up the pto and raise the parking stand though.

 

[DaveOmak]

Steve,
You are not enjoying the back breaking stuff. You have to outsmart the attachments. My '53 Jubilee has NO CREATURE COMFORTS. I love it.
I had to borrow a timing light from my neighbor. Mine went in a garage sale 30years ago. I can set the float in the carb. Adjust the points. Oil the distributor shaft. It takes me back to when things were "simple"? If all else fails, if I had a hand crand I wouldn't need a starter, just a compression release.
I'm not serious here. I like old stuff. Dave

 

[jenkinsph]

Dave
Probably not much anymore, but here is a picture of what I had for a first tractor but it is nowhere near as nice as this one pictured on tractordata this is a Case SC with the Eagle Claw hitch dang nice tractor in its day.
Still have my 820 though.

 

[Sackett2]

I use the Pat's system and am thinking about adding the hyd. top link. Do you find it hard to get the top link moved to the correct length when you hook up? My control lever for my power beyond is up towards the front of the seat.

My control lever is also by the ft of the seat, but i can lean over and watch it move- If I had a cab it might be more difficult.
My 3point swapping story:
yesterday, I needed to swap the box blade for the rear blade. It was setting upright in the flatbed trailer (It stores quite nice like that) I used one tooth on the bucket and lifted it out, flopped it into position on the ground. Removed the box blade, and realized the kick stand for the rear blade is still at my dad's house. So I lifted the end of the blade up and used the 3 point trailer hitch to hold it up. Hmm almost to high. But i was able to back Pats EC into the attach points and lift it off the trailer hitch, then lowered it until the right side closed, but due to some dirt the left wouldn't lock. I also think I need to tweak the angle of the EC. Anyway, used the hyd top link and sulled it out, top pin in and within a few bounced I saw the ec had latched.

The BIG advantage to the hyd top link is that after you have it hooked up, you now can adj the angle of the attachment. one thing worse than cranking the top-link full out to hook up, is having to crank it back to adj the attachment.

One piece of advise, add in the extra length of the EC when ordering a hyd top link