Any tips for 1 man implement hook-up?

[patrick_g]

I use the Harbor Freight quick-hitch with a lot of success. The only stuff that I can't use it with are inexpensive implements from China that don't provide enough clearance for the top hook. The HF hitch is identical to brand name QHs for a fraction of the cost. I'm not a big guy, so it's a real time and $%^*& saver.

In previous years I was 6'2" and 263 lbs. I broke several 2x6 boards used to pry implements. before getting Pat's EZ hitch system. I have also built caster wheeled dolly for a few implements. They help.

Now weighing in at 200 lbs I find I appreciate Pat's system even more as I don't get as much levering action as I did previously.

I don't care how big or strong you are, 3ph implements can be a PITA to swap. Anything you can do to make it easier is a good thing. I find that systems that accommodate varying width implements with little or no fuss are way better than the ones that don't. Pat's system is one that I use and really like. It is quite robust. I abuse it but it it just works. I broke an arm in half but the Pat's accessory was not harmed. The arm was welded and reinforced and lives on with Pat's attachment still attached. There may be others that do as well but I don't see how one could be much better.

Pat (but not THAT Pat)

 

[Rebel]

mburke121 sometimes I use a spud bar to carefully nudge attachments into position. I use to strong arm everything but now regard leverage as my best friend. It's not quite 6' long...very handy pioneer tool around the farm.

When you absolutely positively have to move a 500lb item 1" or 1 foot...time for Mr spud bar.

X2! Very handy to to have around

 

[Steve C]

X2! Very handy to to have around

Our local Harbor Freight (65 miles away) had those on sale a couple of weeks ago, they ran out before I got over there. I have some poles that I need to replace next year and those things work great for that also.

 

[gumshu]

In previous years I was 6'2" and 263 lbs. I broke several 2x6 boards used to pry implements. before getting Pat's EZ hitch system. I have also built caster wheeled dolly for a few implements. They help.

Now weighing in at 200 lbs I find I appreciate Pat's system even more as I don't get as much levering action as I did previously.

I don't care how big or strong you are, 3ph implements can be a PITA to swap. Anything you can do to make it easier is a good thing. I find that systems that accommodate varying width implements with little or no fuss are way better than the ones that don't. Pat's system is one that I use and really like. It is quite robust. I abuse it but it it just works. I broke an arm in half but the Pat's accessory was not harmed. The arm was welded and reinforced and lives on with Pat's attachment still attached. There may be others that do as well but I don't see how one could be much better.

Pat (but not THAT Pat)

Yeap!. I have two Pat's systems and furniture dollies I bought from Harbor Freight to set implements on and move around. Works great.

 

[bobsphotos]

I use Pat's and C&C hyd top link- easy enough to do alone now.

I use the Pat's system and am thinking about adding the hyd. top link. Do you find it hard to get the top link moved to the correct length when you hook up? My control lever for my power beyond is up towards the front of the seat.

 

[DaveOmak]

Mike, I got plenty tired of wrestling with my roto-tiller. Got so tired of it winning I hung it. Works pretty darn good. Hope this gave you some ideas. Dave

 

[jenkinsph]

Mike, I got plenty tired of wrestling with my roto-tiller. Got so tired of it winning I hung it. Works pretty darn good. Hope this gave you some ideas. Dave

Wow that really makes me appreciate having the I Match. I still have to get off to hook up the pto and raise the parking stand though.

 

[DaveOmak]

Steve,
You are not enjoying the back breaking stuff. You have to outsmart the attachments. My '53 Jubilee has NO CREATURE COMFORTS. I love it.
I had to borrow a timing light from my neighbor. Mine went in a garage sale 30years ago. I can set the float in the carb. Adjust the points. Oil the distributor shaft. It takes me back to when things were "simple"? If all else fails, if I had a hand crand I wouldn't need a starter, just a compression release.
I'm not serious here. I like old stuff. Dave

 

[jenkinsph]

Dave
Probably not much anymore, but here is a picture of what I had for a first tractor but it is nowhere near as nice as this one pictured on tractordata this is a Case SC with the Eagle Claw hitch dang nice tractor in its day.
Still have my 820 though.

 

[Sackett2]

I use the Pat's system and am thinking about adding the hyd. top link. Do you find it hard to get the top link moved to the correct length when you hook up? My control lever for my power beyond is up towards the front of the seat.

My control lever is also by the ft of the seat, but i can lean over and watch it move- If I had a cab it might be more difficult.
My 3point swapping story:
yesterday, I needed to swap the box blade for the rear blade. It was setting upright in the flatbed trailer (It stores quite nice like that) I used one tooth on the bucket and lifted it out, flopped it into position on the ground. Removed the box blade, and realized the kick stand for the rear blade is still at my dad's house. So I lifted the end of the blade up and used the 3 point trailer hitch to hold it up. Hmm almost to high. But i was able to back Pats EC into the attach points and lift it off the trailer hitch, then lowered it until the right side closed, but due to some dirt the left wouldn't lock. I also think I need to tweak the angle of the EC. Anyway, used the hyd top link and sulled it out, top pin in and within a few bounced I saw the ec had latched.

The BIG advantage to the hyd top link is that after you have it hooked up, you now can adj the angle of the attachment. one thing worse than cranking the top-link full out to hook up, is having to crank it back to adj the attachment.

One piece of advise, add in the extra length of the EC when ordering a hyd top link