Any tips for 1 man implement hook-up?

[bobsphotos]

My plan before ordering the hyd top link will be to attatch all my implements and document the shortest and longest top length needed and go from there.

 

[patrick_g]

My control lever is also by the ft of the seat, but i can lean over and watch it move- If I had a cab it might be more difficult.


One piece of advise, add in the extra length of the EC when ordering a hyd top link

I have a cab but the controls for the top and tilt and the aux rear hydraulics are beside the seat on the right side and accessible through the back hatch/window due to my good reach. (I span over 6 ft 4 finger tip to finger tip.) I find it really easy to stand on a lower arm and reach the controls. If I were severely height/reach challenged or the controls were misplaced too far forward I would just make a little stick with a notch in it to work the controls.

Having both hydraulic topping and hydraulic tilt make for easier hitching. It is good to be able to adjust the relative heights of the lower arms to accommodate any tilt of the implement. Not everyone always has a perfectly level place to hitch up. I sometimes take a second rear implement out with me, carrying it with the FEL and swapping rear implements whenever and wherever. That eliminates dollies, hanging arrangements, and other nifty stationery adjuncts to smooth implement changes and lets the hydraulic top and tilt really shine as a superior approach.

As I had the hydraulic top and tilt installed at the time of the tractor purchase but added Pat's system later there was a mismatch in top link length. I fixed that with a couple pieces of metal drilled for two pins to make an extension. Pat read about it on the site here and offered me a professionally built version for free. All my PTO driven implements had enough extra reach on the PTO shaft so that didn't cause a problem.

Pat

 

[bobsphotos]

Patrick,
Could you post a pic of the extension you made for the top cylinder?
Thanks

 

[patrick_g]

Patrick,
Could you post a pic of the extension you made for the top cylinder?
Thanks

Sure thing, be glad to as soon as I get out to the tractor.

Meantime...Consider a rectangular piece of steel 2-3 inches by 5-6 inches with a hole drilled about an inch from each end on the centerline of the long dimension.

The holes are clearance holes for top link pins. Make two of these pieces. Pin one end of each to the hydraulic cylinder, one on either side of the hole at the end of the rod using a standard pin and keeper. Do the same at the other end to connect to the implement. This extends the reach by the distance between the holes you drilled. I use washers on both sides at both ends. This will extend your reach but it won't let you apply down pressure to the implement by extending the top link. This limitation (if it actually is one) doesn't bother me. I probably didn't need to do that as I sure don't miss being able to do it.

Pix later.

Pat

 

[GeneD14]

For Cat 1 implements I found Pat's to work good with little effort. When I bought my bigger tractor last year I tried using Carter's EZ hitch because it was so cheap. It was a Cat 2 and hitched up ok but pulling my box blade tore them apart after about 20 minutes of use. They just weren't made heavy duty enough for a 95 hp tractor. I then went out and bought a heavy duty Speedco quick hitch. I had to modify my box blades pins to line up. But now I can back up to an implement, raise the hitch and it locks onto the pins without me even getting out of the cab! It has a big hook that secures the top link while the hitch is raising. Hands down this is one of the easiest and most reliable systems that I've seen. I bought it for $249 on sale at Rural King.

 

[jenkinsph]

For Cat 1 implements I found Pat's to work good with little effort. When I bought my bigger tractor last year I tried using Carter's EZ hitch because it was so cheap. It was a Cat 2 and hitched up ok but pulling my box blade tore them apart after about 20 minutes of use. They just weren't made heavy duty enough for a 95 hp tractor. I then went out and bought a heavy duty Speedco quick hitch. I had to modify my box blades pins to line up. But now I can back up to an implement, raise the hitch and it locks onto the pins without me even getting out of the cab! It has a big hook that secures the top link while the hitch is raising. Hands down this is one of the easiest and most reliable systems that I've seen. I bought it for $249 on sale at Rural King.

I use the IMatch

Good Luck convincing these guys that your hitch is easier to use than their Pats where it is necessary to dismount to connect the top link. Enjoy your Speedco hitch.

 

[RalphVa]

I use dollies for most of my implements that are stored inside on concrete flooring. On the back blade stored outside, I have it on some 1 by boards that make it easy to slide around on.

I've sometimes gone through about 3 implements within an hours' time. Easy with dollies.

Ralph

 

[patrick_g]

Bobsphotos, here are some pix as promised.

They show 2 slightly bent/rusty pieces of flat bar steel with holes near each end. These are pinned to a slot in the top link connection of my brush hog at one end and at the other end to the hydraulic top link. Pretty low tech but works well in all respects except if you wanted to use the top link to put down pressure on the brush hog. Noting the slot in the top link hookup you really can't put on effective down pressure anyway (don't know why I'd want to.)

The first three pix show the adapter. The fourth? Well... I like Clint Eastwood and I thought the AARP thing was a hoot. So there!

Pat

 

[Ken45101]

Thanks for the pictures of your extension.

That's the best AARP I've seen

Ken

 

[JIGBUILDER]

I bought a cat 2 Pats quick hitch system with the telescoping rod. I used it three weeks and its for sale.

I have 7-8 different implements that range for 24" out to 37 " lower arm width so the Pats just don't work for me.

I found setting each implement on something that allows a bit of movement worked better. Less up and down off the tractors seat. I'm 68 years old and don't mind the lifting/leveraging but the up and down the tractor is gettin' harder.

edit; added cat 2 Pats

 

[jenkinsph]

I bought a cat 1 Pats quick hitch system with the telescoping rod. I used it three weeks and its for sale.

I have 7-8 different implements that range for 24" out to 37 " lower arm width so the Pats just don't work for me.

I found setting each implement on something that allows a bit of movement worked better. Less up and down off the tractors seat. I'm 68 years old and don't mind the lifting/leveraging but the up and down the tractor is gettin' harder.

You know having implements with lower link spacings that range from 24" to
37 " is like having randomly spaced studs in a wall and trying to nail up sheetgoods. At 68 years young and out working with your tractor I would hope you could have implements with standard dimensions, an IMatch and topntilt. This is worth it, since you don't have to get out of the seat for most most implements, meaning you can do what you want longer with more independence.

 

[Ken45101]

You know having implements with lower link spacings that range from 24" to
37 " is like having randomly spaced studs in a wall and trying to nail up sheetgoods. At 68 years young and out working with your tractor I would hope you could have implements with standard dimensions, an IMatch and topntilt. This is worth it, since you don't have to get out of the seat for most most implements, meaning you can do what you want longer with more independence.

There are "standard" dimensions? Not AFAIK unless you stick with everything from one vendor and stay in the same class size.

Actually my "top and tilt" has made things harder since it's very difficult to reach the controls from behind the tractor.

I really don't see "staying in the seat to hook up" as possible for my equipment since two of the three most used implements need the PTO (bush hog, post hole digger and box blade).

The landscape rake and tiller go on the smaller tractor (B2710). Again, one of them is PTO powered.

Ken

 

[jenkinsph]

There are "standard" dimensions? Not AFAIK unless you stick with everything from one vendor and stay in the same class size.

Actually my "top and tilt" has made things harder since it's very difficult to reach the controls from behind the tractor.

I really don't see "staying in the seat to hook up" as possible for my equipment since two of the three most used implements need the PTO (bush hog, post hole digger and box blade).

The landscape rake and tiller go on the smaller tractor (B2710). Again, one of them is PTO powered.

Ken

Ken all of the 3 pt equipment in my signature will work with the IMatch system except the old phd. The subsoiler by design doesn't have two legs to stand on but I do have IMatch bushings on it so the IMatch does not need removing. Most implements can be customized to fit, I pay attention to that whenever I am buying. Most of the time the conversion is simple and once done I am through fighting it, this saves a lot of time for me.

AutoHitch is available for the pto shafts I might add so it is possible to stay in the tractor seat even with a pto to hook up. In most cases (not all) you can modify existing equipment to work with it, after all the location of modern tractors with pto location is pretty standard. I did have a Case SC 1940's with the pto output shaft that was where the top link is now which wouldn't work.

More importantly though is to be able to get on your tractor and be able to use it when your eighty years old without having to depend on others' help.



Edit; I do have parking stands on the landscape rake and rear blade that I have to get off the tractor to pin in the up or down position, but I can't complain about that.

 

[FLHayman]

"I do have one question. My Kioti CK30 has the telescoping arms. What is the process for that method to help?[/QUOTE]"

I read the replies after this, and don't think anybody answered this. By pushing down on the spring loaded lever on the top of the lift arm end, it allows you to pull the end out a couple of inches, plus it acts like it is attached with a lot of slop, and you can push it up or down to meet the pin. After everything's attached, you can just back up a little and they will latch back into place solidly. Best technique for me is to stop just a little bit short of where you think the perfect spot would be, then telescope the ends as you swing the arms in. The Kioti system of pinning the stabilizers will allow you to quickly make that adjustment, too.

My older tractors don't have any of that stuff, and you learn to live with what you have. But, I have never seen anything easier than those telescoping arms and the sway stabilizers that have so many varied pin holes that you always have one that is perfectly lined up. I had a set up similar to the Pat's system on my Montana 5740, but took it off, since it didn't suit me. I do love the idea of a a truly stay-in-your seat hookup for all implements, including PTO......anybody have pics of that?

 

[Old Hap]

I use a quick attach similar to the Pat's system. I have a piece of two pieces of PVC pipe, one slides into the other, on which I've marked the correct arm distances for each of my implements. I drilled a hole at each measurement so I can drop in a pin to hold the arms where they need to be.

Set the arm width, back up to the implement, raise the hitch, set the top link, and away you go.

We have Pat's Easy change system and have been happy with it, but free floating draft links can still be an occasional issue. Before we got the easy change we just hung a rope out the back of the cab window (it opens at the bottom) which was attached to each arm. Pulling on the rope will pull the link arms closer (handy sometimes even with the easy change system).

It's not a perfect solution but it helps quite a bit sometimes and it's cheap. I like the PVC idea as well. Thanks for sharing that.

 

[cfair]

This is probably going to raise some eyebrows, but I line up under the attachment as best I can and then drop the blade of my FEL bucket vertically into the ground. Then with the tractor in neutral, I do all the things everyone else mentioned, 'cept when I have to move something, I move the tractor by curling the bucket. Since the blade is stuck in the ground, curling the bucket moves the tractor back and forth. I suck at moving the implements.

I know, you should always have the brake set when you get off the tractor, but I do this on level ground where I keep all my implements.

 

[Steve C]

I am a new member, and new to tractors.

I seem to struggle when hooking up implements to my Ford 3230, since the draft links are free floating, and the spacing is not fixed.

For example, when hooking up my disc, which has clevis hitches, I find myself climbing on and off the tractor several times to align the draft links to the hitches. I may be an Ignoramous (coined by Cracker Barrel), but I welcome any advice to making this process easier.

I have read all the replys. Just man up and practice. With a lever you can move the world if you have a place to stand. There are a lot of devices that can make it easier, but with a little practice and a good pry bar life is good.

If you have the money and want to spend it, extendible links are great but even they have their limits. The more times you change implements the easier it becomes. I find it very satisfying to force these things into submission with nothing more than a big stick and determinination.

It is all easier than riding a 525cc dirt bike 50 miles in the snow after being soaked from then waist down! But that is just me! Perhaps I am not exactly "right" in the head. but hey I am 60 years old so I have an excuse

 

[patrick_g]

The salesman who helped me with my tractor purchase worked his way through a two year college course of study by brush hogging so he had actual experience. He demonstrated several things to me. Among these was hitching 3PH implements.

On level or nearly level ground he set the parking brake hard enough to keep the tractor from rolling but not so hard that you couldn't reach into the cab from outside and jog the tractor a little forward or back with the hydrostat pedal. This helped a bunch but unfortunately I found that jogging the tractor a couple inches was sometimes difficult as it would "relax" back into its original position.

Putting the FEL bucket (cutting edge near vertical downward) in firm contact with the ground, as a previous poster mentioned, allows for very precise fore and aft movement and is relatively safe as the tractor is not going to roll away easily with the FEL bucket engaging the ground.

I have a "digger bar" and know how to use it BUT if the soil is wet or soft it does not supply a good fulcrum and you can't use it to any particular advantage. (Given a lever long enough and a place to stand and I can bend the lever. Take that, Archimedes!)

Taking the time to standardize the implements so that a single quick hitch system will work easily will pay great dividends over time, especially for those of us with more than a little grey in our beards.

I have sometimes wondered (but not sufficiently to propel me into legitimate searches) about automatic PTO connecting and disconnecting and would love to hear about any actual experience with same.

Pat

 

[Ken45101]

On level or nearly level ground he set the parking brake hard enough to keep the tractor from rolling but not so hard that you couldn't reach into the cab from outside and jog the tractor a little forward or back with the hydrostat pedal.

Ah! Good data for the usual HST vs. gear debates The tractor where I have the heavy implements is gear shift But it does have a loader, I'll have to consider that idea.

Ken

 

[Reg]

I am a new member, and new to tractors.

I seem to struggle when hooking up implements to my Ford 3230, since the draft links are free floating, and the spacing is not fixed.

For example, when hooking up my disc, which has clevis hitches, I find myself climbing on and off the tractor several times to align the draft links to the hitches. I may be an Ignoramous (coined by Cracker Barrel), but I welcome any advice to making this process easier.

ONE thing that takes some practice is coming back SQUARELY !
To help come back to where you want to left/right it can help to have the lift arms pulled in, e.g. with a bungie cord.
Extendable lower lift arms also help, just get within about 3 inches.
Safety police HATE this one, but if you don't have extendable lift arms it is POSSIBLE to use the bucket curl/dump to adjust the tractor's position the 1/2 inch or so you need.
Just be sure you are standing BESIDE the rear wheel as you use the loader joy stick.
Hook up the lower side first, then bump the lift a bit to get level to the other one.

What else ?

Ahh, how you LEAVE the implement;
If you have a problem backing the tractor precisely it MIGHT be worth laying down markers just before you unhook.
Tack off-cut bits of 2x4 to the ground maybe ?, say one against the right rear tire and one behind it ?
Pallets; not only keep the implement off wet soil, they can also help keep them from sinking sideways and becoming difficult to re-hook.
Put shims between the pallet and implement to level it, more or less, no need for great precision.

and of course PRACTICE (-: