Any tips for 1 man implement hook-up?

[nybirdman]

One thing not mentioned heren PTO implements;after 3pt.hook-up is completed...........raise up and Then hook up your PTO shaft..with the weight off you can rotate the shaft for line-up much easier.This works for me with my roto-tiller and brush hog.

 

[brandoro]

I used the FEL bucket edge in the ground trick to connect attachements on the B7610 but now with the extendable links on the B3030 that isn't a problem. Even if I am not quite square I back one side up to the right place and use the extension on the other side to line up to the pin.
Don't think jogging the HST would work too good on mine, if the pedal is engaged in either direction without an operator in the seat the safety switch will shut the engine off. I'm reminded of this function from time to time when I raise up off the seat a little to see something close to the bucket.
I do like setting things on pallets to keep them off he ground.

 

[Sackett2]

I also use the method of pressing on the hst to move it back a wee bit more; but hadn't thought of using the fel as a stop.
This post has been filled with info...

 

[jimmer2880]

I bought a cat 1 Pats quick hitch system with the telescoping rod. I used it three weeks and its for sale.
.....

I sent you a PM.

 

[adirondacktrac]

I have been following the thread here about hydraulic top links. Does anyone know whhther these are adaptable to older John Deere CUT's? I have a '94 JD855 FEL and confess I know nothing about hydraulics. Any advice would be appreciated. Is the unit for sale at Burden supply something I should keep in mind. I have a brush hog, back blade and landscape rake at this point. Thanks

 

[Reg]

I have been following the thread here about hydraulic top links. Does anyone know whhther these are adaptable to older John Deere CUT's? I have a '94 JD855 FEL and confess I know nothing about hydraulics. Any advice would be appreciated. Is the unit for sale at Burden supply something I should keep in mind. I have a brush hog, back blade and landscape rake at this point. Thanks

Cat 1 is Cat 1 is Cat 1 is variable (-:
Just be careful NOT TO assume that any old cylinder of the right length, stroke and diameter will do.
You need clearances at both the tractor end and the implement end.
Usually the implement end isn't much of an issue, but at extreme angles of tilt the cylinder MIGHT interfere with it's mount point.

HAVING a hydraulic top link does tempt one to use it.
ONE example was rototilling well into an embankment, without a hydraulic top link I couldn't have tipped the tiller up as I raised it as I backed into the banking.
With it I could, so I did.

Point is don't just assume that you will only use a hydraulic top link through the same range as your existing turnbuckle link.
You will almost certainly find opportunities to use the full range of it, in real time, and wish for more (-:

 

[Nitro-Fish]

I agree. My PHD was a real hand full. This is my solution. I store it standing against a post. The pin that attaches it to the lift arm serves as a safety just in case the nylon strap rots or breaks. I just mount the lift arm on the tractor, back up to the PHD, pull the pin out of the wood bracket and slide it into place.

Does anyone know who makes this post hole digger?

 

[dangerdoc]

I am a new member, and new to tractors.

I seem to struggle when hooking up implements to my Ford 3230, since the draft links are free floating, and the spacing is not fixed.

For example, when hooking up my disc, which has clevis hitches, I find myself climbing on and off the tractor several times to align the draft links to the hitches. I may be an Ignoramous (coined by Cracker Barrel), but I welcome any advice to making this process easier.

I keep a 6 ft railroad bar in the barn, I get close with the tractor and then can nudge the impliment with the bar. I usualy don't need more than 10 minutes hooking something up. I have also been known to make fine adjustments with a sledge hammer.

 

[jenkinsph]

I keep a 6 ft railroad bar in the barn, I get close with the tractor and then can nudge the impliment with the bar. I usualy don't need more than 10 minutes hooking something up. I have also been known to make fine adjustments with a sledge hammer.

In ten minutes with IMatch I can pick up (move over to mow beneath) 4 ot 5 implements without getting off the tractor.

 

[Soundguy]

does it hookup the pto shaft for ya?

deriously though, whatever works, and every lil bit helps.

( speaking of auto pto shaft hookup... havn't I read that deer has something like that in limited release? )

soundguy

 

[Ken45101]

In ten minutes with IMatch I can pick up (move over to mow beneath) 4 ot 5 implements without getting off the tractor.

Are they all JD implements? Does the Imatch spacing work with other brand implements? I have Woods and Bush Hog attachments.

Ken

 

[jenkinsph]

does it hookup the pto shaft for ya?

deriously though, whatever works, and every lil bit helps.

( speaking of auto pto shaft hookup... havn't I read that deer has something like that in limited release? )

soundguy

I haven't added the auto shaft portion to my IMatch but it is available for my implements. I did try it at the dealer and it works pretty slick, for someone starting out with a clean slate (no existing equipment) I think it is a good way to go.

When I am moving my implements to mow beneath them I don't need to hookup the pto anyway. I have fixed link, telescopic link and IMatch and the latter is much easier to use by myself.

 

[jenkinsph]

Are they all JD implements? Does the Imatch spacing work with other brand implements? I have Woods and Bush Hog attachments.

Ken

Ken,
The IMatch will work with most Cat 1 implements though some need modifying. There are a few that would require major changes to work. Once you have them setup though the IMatch is a joy to use.

Having the IMatch and knowing what it needs to work I am aware and pay attention to this when buying future implements. I have a variety of brands of implements and most have needed only simple modifications to make them work.

 

[Specop_007]

My only tip is to make sure the wife or kids arent around. Dont want them to hear you cussing. :thumbsup:

 

[hrcarver]

Good boots(as hammers):thumbsup:

 

[DanielVT]

42 oz. deadblow mallet.

 

[MESSMAKER]

42 oz. deadblow mallet.

That and a good pry bar can make things a lot easier. Park your stuff on pallets with wheels on them if they are on concrete.

 

[studor]

That and a good pry bar can make things a lot easier. Park your stuff on pallets with wheels on them if they are on concrete.

+1 on the mallet and prybar -- I have a six foot "railroad pry bar" that I always use when attaching implements -- I have a quick hitch but find it kinda a waste of time

 

[jenkinsph]

+1 on the mallet and prybar -- I have a six foot "railroad pry bar" that I always use when attaching implements -- I have a quick hitch but find it kinda a waste of time

How do you find it a waste of time?



I find the brute force method to be a waste of time, growing up we didn't have I Match and had to use the brute force method. If you take the time once to make the quick hitch work it saves a great deal of time. I find that the quick hitch combined with top n tilt makes a good combination.

When I build implements I make sure they are compatible too. Usually a few simple modifications and most implements can be quick hitch ready. Guess it helps to have some welding equipment but with what I know now I would pay a welder to do the work if necessary.

 

[beenthere]

After getting the iMatch, I don't need any of the bars or heavy boots or heavy mauls to hook-up. It is a real pleasure compared to the sweating that I used to do. Now I will admit to a tilt a time or two, just because the implement shifted or I approached at a different angle, and admit that the hyd. top arm is a real blessing as well. But no sweat now. :thumbsup: :cool2: