Using a generator to power a water well pump

anojones · Dec 22, 2009

I really appreciate the info. The pump is submersible, the control box is mounted in the garage next to the pressure tank- it's 1 HP 230V, and I know which breaker runs it. A ten foot cord could go out the door to a generator. I've thought about investing in a transfer switch, but our electricity has been very reliable- never down more than a few hours. Given that this would be only used rarely it seems powering the pressure switch as described, and running a couple of extension cords for a portable heater and a light or two is all I would need. Although our electrical cooperative has been reliable, we've had a couple of ice storms and one is bound to put us out for awhile.

charlz · Dec 22, 2009

TheGoose said:
Service: Franklin AIM: Page 5 - Americas Water Systems - Franklin Electric

I have question about the check valve info on that page. My well pump runs periodically because the water apparently is draining back into the well. I have done some isolation testing etc. and either I have a leak between the well and the pressure tank (about 75 feet apart) or the check valve(s) are leaking. I have dug up at the well and there is a check valve installed there but no union

It would not be a small project to replace that check valve. I have about 12" or so of straight copper pipe near the pressure tank on the well side. I was thinking of putting a union and check valve there as it would be much easier than digging and working in a hole at the well end. My pressure switch runs about 35-60 psi so there is always some pressure in the line between the well and the tank. If I installed a check valve at the tank end am I going to start getting water hammer per what it says on that page under "water hammer"? It would seem unless air is introduced there would still be water in the pipe, just no pressure.

whistlepig · Dec 22, 2009

anojones said:
We have all electric and no generator yet. Is there someone who can explain how to wire the pump so that it can be run from a generator. Can you splice in a plug at the control box, does there need to be a transfer switch wired to it? I'm just trying to get basic information on how I would "plug" in my well pump to a generator. Thanks.

I have a disconnect box from the house wiring to the well pump. This disconnect box has a pigtail hanging out of it that the generator cord plugs in to. When the power goes out I pull the disconnect. This isolates the pump wiring from the house wiring. Then I plug the pigtail in to the generator. If the power comes back on it doesn't matter because the pump and generator are isolated from the house wiring. I had an electrician do this. It wasn't that expensive. Most folks out this way run their well pumps this way and it's easy to find an electrician that knows exactly what you are talking about when you ask him to do this.

timswi · Dec 22, 2009

charlz said:
I have question about the check valve info on that page. My well pump runs periodically because the water apparently is draining back into the well. I have done some isolation testing etc. and either I have a leak between the well and the pressure tank (about 75 feet apart) or the check valve(s) are leaking. I have dug up at the well and there is a check valve installed there but no union It would not be a small project to replace that check valve. I have about 12" or so of straight copper pipe near the pressure tank on the well side. I was thinking of putting a union and check valve there as it would be much easier than digging and working in a hole at the well end. My pressure switch runs about 35-60 psi so there is always some pressure in the line between the well and the tank. If I installed a check valve at the tank end am I going to start getting water hammer per what it says on that page under "water hammer"? It would seem unless air is introduced there would still be water in the pipe, just no pressure.

Could be a foot valve leaking. If you put a check valve at the bladder tank, and the water is draining into the well. You will have an H2o void and my guess it would be worse than water hammer when the system re-pressurizes.

Is the well cycling constantly or rarely?

cisco · Dec 22, 2009

I've a Honda EM7000 for back-up on my country garage/apt. It has a system whereby generator motor rpm is proportional to output demand, so fuel consumption is likewise regulated. Most with "country" homes believe they're self-sufficient, with septic and such, but when power goes, as it did with me after a hurricane that knocked out area power for over a week, it became very clear that "no power, no water", and such power had to be sufficient for the start-up demands of the well pump (which as previously noted on this thread can be twice that of normal operating power). So, when I came home to find my distressed wife with no power, no refrigeration, no lights, no HVAC and no water, I cranked up the 27 amp 220v output Honda, but BEFORE such shut off the HVAC and freezer circuits. The generator (which is in superb shape) was not happy for awhile, but as the water holding tank, house frig and such were replenished, I could flip on the freezer and a few other switches. It's a matter of knowing the max. current draw of the stuff critical to you, and if you don't have a generator capable of handling everything starting at once, then you have to cycle in circuits when appropriate.
I'm going for a 15000 watt Onan built-in and propane powered for my soon-to-be constructed home. Still, I'll have to choose what circuits to power (AC, well pump, elevator, freezer/frig/etc). To run everything requires..... a lot, and when I added up the "start-up" amp requirements of everything I hope to have in the home ....I'm still going to need to priortize where the power goes.

whistlepig · Dec 22, 2009

cisco said:
I've a Honda EM7000 for back-up on my country garage/apt. It has a system whereby generator motor rpm is proportional to output demand, so fuel consumption is likewise regulated. Most with "country" homes believe they're self-sufficient, with septic and such, but when power goes, as it did with me after a hurricane that knocked out area power for over a week, it became very clear that "no power, no water", and such power had to be sufficient for the start-up demands of the well pump (which as previously noted on this thread can be twice that of normal operating power). So, when I came home to find my distressed wife with no power, no refrigeration, no lights, no HVAC and no water, I cranked up the 27 amp 220v output Honda, but BEFORE such shut off the HVAC and freezer circuits. The generator (which is in superb shape) was not happy for awhile, but as the water holding tank, house frig and such were replenished, I could flip on the freezer and a few other switches. It's a matter of knowing the max. current draw of the stuff critical to you, and if you don't have a generator capable of handling everything starting at once, then you have to cycle in circuits when appropriate.
I'm going for a 15000 watt Onan built-in and propane powered for my soon-to-be constructed home. Still, I'll have to choose what circuits to power (AC, well pump, elevator, freezer/frig/etc). To run everything requires..... a lot, and when I added up the "start-up" amp requirements of everything I hope to have in the home ....I'm still going to need to priortize where the power goes.

I think you are talking about Hondas auto throttle system. One has to research generators and power demands. Decide your priorities. For us well water was number one. Power to the pellet stove number two. Power to the refridgerators/freezer number three. Power for lights, TV, and other stuff last. This is a budget setup with a portable. We put the majority of our money in a good generator. When it's 3 AM and the wind chill is -25 the last thing I want to do is work on a generator with a flashlight that won't start.

charlz · Dec 22, 2009

timswi said:
Could be a foot valve leaking. If you put a check valve at the bladder tank, and the water is draining into the well. You will have an H2o void and my guess it would be worse than water hammer when the system re-pressurizes.

Is the well cycling constantly or rarely?

It seems like every 1/2 hour or so even when no one is home.

timswi · Dec 22, 2009

charlz said:
It seems like every 1/2 hour or so even when no one is home.

Check the air pressure in your bladder tank first....Depending on the size,model, and if memory serves, there should be somewhere around 35PSI...Check the sticker on the tank to verify. Could be the beginnings of water logging.

timswi · Dec 22, 2009

charlz said:
It seems like every 1/2 hour or so even when no one is home.

Start a new thread on this...We're wandering

TheGoose · Dec 25, 2009

First I would need to know what kind of well you have and do you know if it is either a submersible (pump down in the well) or jet pump (pump above ground).

Usually submersible pumps have a built-in check valve on the pump itself. Over time this check valve can leak a little. Normally I would install a 2nd check-valve just after the well head to keep water from flowing back to the pump if the pump check valve did fail. You say that there is another check valve just before the well. So if you're losing pressure/water into the well then this check valve would have to be leaking also. It is also possible that you have a hole in your drop pipe or some other problem.

If you have a jet pump set-up you have different problems. From what you described I do not think you have a jet pump set-up but I can explain if so necessary.

Either way you are losing a pretty good amount of water back into the well. How long is your pump running every time it kicks on? You should check to make sure your tank is not water logged, which could magnify the problem by not letting the motor running very long and once pressured up losing it's pressure prematurely.

If you have a bladder tank shut the power to the pump off and drain all the water out of the tank. Now check the pressure. The pressure should be 2 psi below your cut-in pressure. For example, if your pump kicks on at 30 psig your tank pressure should be 28 psig. If you do not have any air in the tank this would cause the pump to short cycle.

If you have a regular galvanized tank you simply need to add air to the tank. A 50/50 mix will work just fine. I can explain more if necessary.

What you really need to do is address the problem of where the water is going. If you have a hole in your drop pipe this is a serious problem and could cause your motor/pump to over-heat and that can get expensive quickly. Because your pump uses the water flowing over it to cool the motor if you lose water back into the well from a hole this water starts to heat up depending upon how much water is being recycled. You could over-heat the motor, melt the well casing, etc. You should really consult with your local well service co. to find the true problem. Installing a 2nd check valve only address the symptom, not the problem.

charlz said:
I have question about the check valve info on that page. My well pump runs periodically because the water apparently is draining back into the well. I have done some isolation testing etc. and either I have a leak between the well and the pressure tank (about 75 feet apart) or the check valve(s) are leaking. I have dug up at the well and there is a check valve installed there but no union It would not be a small project to replace that check valve. I have about 12" or so of straight copper pipe near the pressure tank on the well side. I was thinking of putting a union and check valve there as it would be much easier than digging and working in a hole at the well end. My pressure switch runs about 35-60 psi so there is always some pressure in the line between the well and the tank. If I installed a check valve at the tank end am I going to start getting water hammer per what it says on that page under "water hammer"? It would seem unless air is introduced there would still be water in the pipe, just no pressure.