BX 3PH float position?

[DavidAubke]

You can adjust the link found inboard of the right rear tire to not spring back to center from the "down" position. That should give you true float since the valve will remain open.

The link is easy to find by tipping up the seat and looking about 4 inches from the right tire toward the transmission. There is a spring on both ends of the linkage where it goes through a swivel. The front spring is the one that controls the down lever if I remember correctly. Just operate the 3 PH lever and it will become obvious which compresses for the "up" and the one for the "down" stroke. Have the engine running and you will see how the return works.

There is a cotter pin in the front spring that can be removed for completely disabling the "down" return thus leaving the valve open.

I think my BX may use a different system. Here's how my 3PH control lever works.

1. Above the right-side fender.

2. Under the right-side fender.

3. Control lever linkage connection at the transmission. I see no springs anywhere. Nothing is attached to the arm until it connects to the transmission.

4. Here are some metal tabs that serve no apparent purpose. They sit just below the fender. It looks like I could swap the two tabs and pivot the front out a little. The play in the 3PH control lever (center in this shot) would be enough that I could hook it on the front tab and lock it forward. Then, with a nudge away from the seat, it would release.

5. For good measure, here's the whole rig sporting its brand-spankin' new chains.

 

[milkman]

Dave if you have something similar to the part in the red circle, that's the adjustable linkage that has been referenced, that kicks the lift lever back to neutral, if you don't have that part, the newer models are different than my 2001.

 

[BXpanded]

I think my BX may use a different system. Here's how my 3PH control lever works.

1. Above the right-side fender.

2. Under the right-side fender.

3. Control lever linkage connection at the transmission. I see no springs anywhere. Nothing is attached to the arm until it connects to the transmission.

4. Here are some metal tabs that serve no apparent purpose. They sit just below the fender. It looks like I could swap the two tabs and pivot the front out a little. The play in the 3PH control lever (center in this shot) would be enough that I could hook it on the front tab and lock it forward. Then, with a nudge away from the seat, it would release.

5. For good measure, here's the whole rig sporting its brand-spankin' new chains.

The newer 50 and 60 series BXs (ie: BX2350, 2360, BX24, 25) have a different 3 pt than the earlier versions that Milkman illustrated. There is no linkage on the later versions.
The metal tabs mentioned above are components of the Quarter Inching system. The tabs limit the travel of the lever allowing a very small movement of the hitch. Pull the lever sideways in between the tabs, move it forward or backward to the stop and release. The hitch will move approximately 1/4".

 

[DavidAubke]

milkman - I couldn't get a very wide shot because the blade was still attached. I didn't see anything like that. Thanks for the picture though.



Yes.. I turned that locking nut with a channel lock.

 

[DavidAubke]

The metal tabs mentioned above are components of the Quarter Inching system.

I always wondered what the "Quarter Inching system" was.

The tabs limit the travel of the lever allowing a very small movement of the hitch. Pull the lever sideways in between the tabs, move it forward or backward to the stop and release. The hitch will move approximately 1/4".

Doesn't that depend on the setting of the release valve? Anyway, I don't think I'm much interested in that feature. Those tabs are going to be re-purposed.

 

[gwdixon]

OK, now that the model is known my posts are moot.

I case anyone has a BX2200 with the same issue, here is a picture from above with the seat tilted forward. Gas tank on the right, 3PH arm just above the springs in the photo.

The front-most spring is the down return, the rear-most is the up return.

 

[Just2quickz28]

I have used chains instead of lift arms when I wanted a 3pt implement to "float". Mostly on my landscape rake to move piles of debris across my uneven field.

 

[CHDinCT]

Agree with just2quick - try using a chain in place of your top link with some slack in it. As your back wheels go over a hump, the blade should rotate on the lower link pins and stay in contact with the ground as long as there's enough slack in the top link chain. This will mean you can't raise the blade as high as with a normal top link, but it should give you the downward float you're looking for. If you want it to float side to side, replace one of your vertical side links with chain.

 

[Chilly807]

That's a good idea, I remember one of the guys at work mentioning that his Dad used to use chain for a top link on their bush cutter to help it follow terrain better. Land Pride tells you to set the top link length so there is a slight sag in the linkage when the mower is sitting level. The more sag you have, the less lift height you'll get when transporting, but you can shorten the chain before you do that.

Chilly

 

[BXpanded]

I believe the OP was using a blade. Using a chain for a top link will allow the blade to just fall over forward. When pulling the blade, the top link is in compression. When lifting as in raising the mower, the toplink is in tension so it works.
I think Just 2 Quick was referring to substituting chains for the connecting rods from the upper lift arms to the lower lift arms.

 

[Chilly807]

And I think you're right...

 

[gwdixon]

I believe the OP was using a blade. Using a chain for a top link will allow the blade to just fall over forward. When pulling the blade, the top link is in compression. When lifting as in raising the mower, the toplink is in tension so it works.
I think Just 2 Quick was referring to substituting chains for the connecting rods from the upper lift arms to the lower lift arms.

Ohhh...you beat me to the post. A blade does compress the top link - that is how draft control works.

If the lower arms are fixed at a certain height, say 1" off the ground for leveling, the chains would help in place of lift arms if the rear wheels go into a depression - but not that much over a solid arm since there is no downward force, besides the weight of the implement, in any case.

However, if the rears go over a bump the blade would not drop to compensate.

I think what the OP wanted was float both up and down as the blade slides along the ground. Digging amount could be controlled somewhat by lengthening or shortening the top link to vary the angle of the blade to ground. A "Top and Tilt" would be nice then.

His solution of securing the 3PH lift lever in the down position to hold it there sounds like it is the best option. He seems satisfied with the functioning when the lever is held down by hand but would like a way to get the same results with both hands free.

 

[Chilly807]

I think he mentioned something about the lift arms ratcheting back up with the control valve centered? I don't have that particular tractor, so I don't know how that part of it works...

Using chains between the upper and lower arms would work well like Just2Quick mentioned, you lower the upper arms and the lowers fall as well, but there's no upward motion of the upper arms if the blade rides up over something. Changing out the solid rods for chains would be a pain in the a**, but I guess you could just leave them there, I'm trying to think of an implement that wouldn't work well with chains there...

I'd sooner do that than have the hydraulics constantly trying to lower the 3ph with the valve held open.

Interesting problem, this is the kinda stuff we learn from. I do, anyway.

Chilly

 

[DavidAubke]

I think what the OP wanted was float both up and down as the blade slides along the ground.

This is exactly correct.

His solution of securing the 3PH lift lever in the down position to hold it there sounds like it is the best option. He seems satisfied with the functioning when the lever is held down by hand but would like a way to get the same results with both hands free.

And to that end...

1. Here's one of the "Quarter Inching" tabs I had planned on using to create a locked-forward position for the control lever. It wasn't until I'd removed one that I realized the two circles surrounding the bolt hole weren't alternate bolt holes but rather partially punched cutouts designed to hold the tab at a right angle to its mounting bracket. Without those holes I couldn't get the tab to reach out far enough to catch the lever.

2. I cut and ground down a T bracket (didn't have an L) to make my own lock tab.

3. I removed both Quarter Inching tabs and used their bolts to mount my locking tab. Here it's holding the lever forward in the "down" position.

4. The view from above - holding the lever forward.

It works nicely. Pretty smooth operation although I don't know if it will pop out when the ride gets bumpy. The tab can be fine tuned by bending it up and down a little bit.

 

[DavidAubke]

I think he mentioned something about the lift arms ratcheting back up with the control valve centered? I don't have that particular tractor, so I don't know how that part of it works...

That was speculation. I may have been influenced by frustration when I came to that conclusion.

I'd sooner do that than have the hydraulics constantly trying to lower the 3ph with the valve held open.

On my BX2350, the hitch does not exert down-pressure. I assumed holding the valve open just meant I wasn't asking the hydraulics to do anything at all.

Does anyone else think this may be causing undue wear somewhere?

 

[gwdixon]

On my BX2350, the hitch does not exert down-pressure. I assumed holding the valve open just meant I wasn't asking the hydraulics to do anything at all.

Does anyone else think this may be causing undue wear somewhere?

I think you are correct about no function other than an open valve when the lever is held down. There is no down pressure and the pump is not laboring. This is confirmed when the tractor is cold because sometimes the 3PH arms take forever to squeeze out the fluid as they lower.

A better explanation would come from asking this question on the Hydraulics Forum on TBN.

 

[Chilly807]

Glad you found something that would work for you, Dave... keep us posted if you have to change anything It's good to have somebody else's experiences if you have to dig into something like this.

Chilly

 

[DavidAubke]

Can I just say, this has proven to be an awesome modification.

I use my 3PH for a rotary mower and a back blade. For both, I almost always operate with the implement completely lowered. I want no support from the hitch. It's so nice to be able to just throw the lever forward then let go secure in the knowledge that the implement is going to drop to the ground and stay there.

Particularly when blading, I previously ALWAYS kept my hand on the lever to be sure the blade didn't lift up when going over a bump.

The operation is smooth and reliable. Push forward and the lever locks and stays there regardless of how rough the ride. Give a little bump to the right and it releases. To control the height, just keep a little rightward pressure and it won't lock.