Tandem axle wagon build

   / Tandem axle wagon build
  • Thread Starter
#21  
My only concern with the axles that far apart is how bad it will tear up the yard when I turn. I got quite a bit more done this after noon. I got the cross braces welded on the box frame. I was going to take some pics but the batteries on the camera were dead. I will take some tomorrow.
Bill
 
   / Tandem axle wagon build
  • Thread Starter
#22  
I need some help. I got the frame work for the box done.I mocked up the hyd. cyl. and wasn't close to where I though I would be.It is a 4" dia. 24" stroke. From what other posters have said I want the box to raise to around 50deg. The only way I can achieve that is to push off the second cross member from the rear. This will create a lot more stress on the box frame work.This is a cyl. I had laying around. If I were to buy a new longer cyl. how small of dia. could I get away with.
Bill
 

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   / Tandem axle wagon build #23  
On the one I built I have the cyl. attached @ the rear and pushing on the front of the box. I had to lower the mount point of cyl on rear cross member but it gives me about 55 degree dump and has dumped everything I could pile on my trailer but its only 3x6 made out of old fuel tank but works good in yards with atv(which has hyd. outlets on it) and mini excavator or B26 doing the digin.
 
   / Tandem axle wagon build #24  
Nice work.

You will be happy with the wheels back a ways - dump trailers shouldn't be close to center, as they _dump_ and you always have a lot of weight on the rear. You might wish they were back even a bit more.

Did you ever consider rocking axles, no springs? They ride real good at tractor speeds, and the trailer woudn't settle with a load on it. It's nice to have a stable height for a dump trailer, empty it is high to load, full it is low to fit the cyclinder & all under it & not drag. You dump, and the thing raises up as weight comes off it - can be handy, but can be a pain if you want a controlled dump..... The bigger problem is if some material hangs on one side, then the trailer will really lean when raised, one side get light, the other is heavy, & the springs allow it to lean. At your size it should be ok and not dangerous but it will be noticable.

Dump trailers you want very very stable. :)

Have you looked into a sissors style hoist, you seem to have the skills to make one. They use strong arms to raise the bed, and the cylinder moved the arms. You should have plenty of hyd pressure to make it work. Allows you to pick the arm length to work with your cyl travel and get you to any dump angle you want.

Nice work, wish I had the skills.

--->Paul
 
   / Tandem axle wagon build #25  
I need some help. I got the frame work for the box done.I mocked up the hyd. cyl. and wasn't close to where I though I would be.It is a 4" dia. 24" stroke. From what other posters have said I want the box to raise to around 50deg. The only way I can achieve that is to push off the second cross member from the rear. This will create a lot more stress on the box frame work.This is a cyl. I had laying around. If I were to buy a new longer cyl. how small of dia. could I get away with.
Bill

I was thinking the same thing as rambler for the sissors style hoist (more work for the new ironworker). Also, you could add diagonal braces from the center of the cross member to the front corners if you are worried about the cross member bending.
 
   / Tandem axle wagon build
  • Thread Starter
#26  
I'm not sure I know exatly what you are talking about. I have seen some old grain trucks that had the cly. mounted horizontal and pushed on the short side of curved arm that was on a pivot. Is this what you are talking about.
Bill
 
   / Tandem axle wagon build #27  
   / Tandem axle wagon build #29  
There are many different types of scissor lifts that can be put into a dump trailer. Those shown are typical though and are designed to get greater lift from shorter large diameter cylinders. I would like to say that the cylinder supports should be beefier than what they are if you intend to put some thing like gravel and or damp sand onto it. It will be fine as built for wood and or mulch though. If you take a look at how the under bed supports are cross supported in both directions and the dual parallel supports that are tied to the cylinder in mine the 2x2 tube is 1/4 wall what you have appears to be 14 gauge tubing. The bends look too tight to be much heavier than that. The floor of the trailer I built also has a LOTS of rigidity built into it as it is bent heavy gauge, 11 gauge metal with the double bends welded to the 2x2x 1/4" wall tube with good stitch welds. I had not bent or given at all with the 2.5 CU-Yards of wet sand/gravel that I've had in there.

trailer2.jpg


If you take a close look there are dual center tubes running front to rear with heavy plates dropping down to support the push points that the cylinder applies to them. The Upper cross brace on yours where the rod end of the cylinder is at may interfere with the lower support brace between the axles . I would probably run some diagonal braces under the bottom of the lower frame towards the center hydraulic support and them back up towards the center of the trailer lower frame so that there is some triangulated structure to support the lower end. the upper end will receive more support form the box (as long as you are making it from welded steel.) I would also add a few front to rear braces to the top frame between the cross members and attach the upper end of the hyd cylinder to them.
looking great so far...

Mark
 
   / Tandem axle wagon build
  • Thread Starter
#30  
WARNING when using compressed air on a hydraulic cylinder it moves extremely fast and hurts like **** when it hits you in the chest. ( dumb ***** attack)

I figured out where I am mounting my cyl. I ended up with the cyl. pointing up at a 17 deg angle and when raised all the way the box is at a 43deg angle.The end of the cyl. is 3" above the axle so clearance shouldn't be an issue. I think this will be enough dump angle since I am going to put a liner in it. It would probably ok with out the liner.For test purposes I tacked and strapped things in place and every thing works fine. Now I still have to decide the best way to mount the cyl. I think i am going to have to go back to the steel yard.
Bill
 

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