Hydraulic dump for Carry-All??

[kennyd]

OK Kobie, what you have is called a "Power Beyond" setup. The first place to start is it call your dealer and find out how much a factory "remote" is. While you can add a valve and plumbing yourself, it is nice to see what the factory option cost is, it is often not much more than doing it yourself and it looks better also.

As for the HTL (hydraulic top link), you will have to measure the extended and retracted length of your current one before I could recommend the correct cylinder.

I implore you to use the search function also-all of this has been discussed hundreds of times, maybe on a different machine but the theory is all the same...here are some terms to search for:

HTL
CCM
Remote

 

[kobiedog]

Kenny...........THANK YOU!!!!, I'm moving ahead....better than expected, thanks to you.

 

[/pine]

Sorry if this is off the wall...I may have read more into the intentions than intended...

I don't think a hydraulic top link will double as a "dumping" cylinder for a 3 pt. hitch carry all...

I would think that using a cylinder that extends farther than the factory top link could damage attachments or the hitch itself...

I do agree that the simplest way to make a dumpable carry all is by disconnecting the top link and allowing gravety to dump the load...

Again...sorry if I misinterpreted intentions...

 

[kennyd]

Sorry if this is off the wall...I may have read more into the intentions than intended...

I don't think a hydraulic top link will double as a "dumping" cylinder for a 3 pt. hitch carry all...

I would think that using a cylinder that extends farther than the factory top link could damage attachments or the hitch itself...

I do agree that the simplest way to make a dumpable carry all is by disconnecting the top link and allowing gravety to dump the load...

Again...sorry if I misinterpreted intentions...

How would you "disconnect the top link" if there is a load on it?

Would you get out of your seat, and pull the pins holding your bucket to dump it? No, you use hydraulics! The miracle of little O-Rings!

No damage will be done to the hitch by extending further than the factory TL. Maybe the HTL is not the answer-but he still needs a valve so he is moving in the correct direction.

 

[rambler]

No damage will be done to the hitch by extending further than the factory TL. Maybe the HTL is not the answer-but he still needs a valve so he is moving in the correct direction.

A htl is cool. I have one.

I will disagree with you - it can damage the top link frame depending on how it is built.

Also, I will disagree that it works - I made a platform on a carryall fram, and the typical hyd top link will not extend enough to really dump. It is designed to average about in the middle of a normal top link length, so it will shorten about as much as it lengthens.

As such, it won't go long enough to actually dump. A little bit will slide off, but it won't dump off clean.

If he uses a longer cylinder for the top link so it extends farther, he really needs to watch the top framework of his carry all - as the angles increase, most of them will bind up with the cylinder & bust something. He'd need the right type of design for the top link hole for this to work.

Nice idea, I'm not knocking it. But, with the average carrier, and the average top link cylinder, it won't work.....

--->Paul

 

[Cocre]

Attached is the max dump angle I can get with my HTL and the carry-all. It tilts enough to assist with dumping most stuff, but would not clean the deck so to speak.

My HTL does not extend to the OEM specs, and with my particular cheap eBay carry-all I believe I could extend it several more inches without hazard to any equipment. So you just got to look at your particular setup.

 

[kobiedog]

The first place to start is it call your dealer and find out how much a factory "remote" is. While you can add a valve and plumbing yourself, it is nice to see what the factory option cost is, it is often not much more than doing it yourself and it looks better also.

As for the HTL (hydraulic top link), you will have to measure the extended and retracted length of your current one before I could recommend the correct cylinder.

Kenny,

I called the dealer, he knew exactly what I wanted, a base kit and lever is $467, the valve is $293......so it's back to the drawing board on that end of this project.

The current regular top link measures 27" from pin to pin in the normal level position on the Carry-All. When I remove the pin and lift the 3Pt to the "dump" position the measurement is 37" pin to pin.

 

[kennyd]

Kenny,

I called the dealer, he knew exactly what I wanted, a base kit and lever is $467, the valve is $293......so it's back to the drawing board on that end of this project.

The current regular top link measures 27" from pin to pin in the normal level position on the Carry-All. When I remove the pin and lift the 3Pt to the "dump" position the measurement is 37" pin to pin.

A new valve will be just shy of $200, add hoses and QD's to hook it up for about another $100-$150 or so, plus you will have to fabricate a mount. You can make it a permanent install, or just "plug it in" when the backhoe is removed. Then you will need hoses and QD's to go to the cylinder...plus the price of the cylinder itself.

There is NOTHING about hydraulic that's cheap except for O-rings and advice here!

 

[kobiedog]

A new valve will be just shy of $200, add hoses and QD's to hook it up for about another $100-$150 or so, plus you will have to fabricate a mount. You can make it a permanent install, or just "plug it in" when the backhoe is removed. Then you will need hoses and QD's to go to the cylinder...plus the price of the cylinder itself.

There is NOTHING about hydraulic that's cheap except for O-rings and advice here!

Yes, I have come to same conclusion regarding cost when talking hydraulic.

However, I'd like to get a cost on the cylinder, so if you could point me in that direction.

I once again really appreciate the constructive input.

I can deal with the cost of the valve and fittings...it's the cylinder and which one to get and where that I'm worried about.

 

[kennyd]

Yes, I have come to same conclusion regarding cost when talking hydraulic.

However, I'd like to get a cost on the cylinder, so if you could point me in that direction.

I once again really appreciate the constructive input.

I can deal with the cost of the valve and fittings...it's the cylinder and which one to get and where that I'm worried about.

Sorry, I kind of forgot the cylinder part...

The measurements you gave are not much help, you need the TL fully retracted and extended to match the new HTL. Others may be correct that you will not get the dump angle you want with the HTL alone-but it is still very useful in it's own right.

Surplus Center has these two cylinders : 9-7682, you need to subtract your retracted length from the extended length to find the "stroke" you need.

Also do the searching I recommended above.