Blade Clearance from Ground
- Thread starter stuart
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kennyd
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If the side links are attached to the holes closer to the tractor, then the arms will lift higher.
Out of the JD 2320 Operators Manual
Adjusting Lift Capacity and Height
Draft links (A) and lift links (B) each have three different positions that can be used to change lift capacity and height capacity. Tractor is shipped from factory with both links in mid position.
Adjusting to inner hole (C) on draft link and upper hole (D) on lift link will provide maximum lift height. Adjusting to outer hole (E) on draft link and lower hole (F) on lift link will provide maximum lift capacity. Adjust links as necessary for your implement.
Adjusting Lift Capacity and Height
Draft links (A) and lift links (B) each have three different positions that can be used to change lift capacity and height capacity. Tractor is shipped from factory with both links in mid position.
Adjusting to inner hole (C) on draft link and upper hole (D) on lift link will provide maximum lift height. Adjusting to outer hole (E) on draft link and lower hole (F) on lift link will provide maximum lift capacity. Adjust links as necessary for your implement.
Gizmo; My JD 4300 has a different set up than the one you posted.
When I shortened the LIFT LINKS as far as they would go and then shortened the center link most of the way I was able to get the rear of the rear blade 10" off the ground. If possible I would like to get another 4" of lift height at the rear of the blade. Is the extra height necessary or unreasonable?
I do not have a Hydraulic center link but I might be able to change to lift links I can shorten a little more than the ones on the tractor.
OR new Draft Links with holes in different locations OR Different Sway Links because when I tried swapping position of the sway link and the Lift Link, the sway links would not reach (were too short) the rear position hole on the Draft Link. The new position of the Lift Link (in the hole for the Sway Link) was a couple of inches higher as shown in photo # 2.
Hopefully I have attached a picture from the Operator's Manual that shows my setup.
When I shortened the LIFT LINKS as far as they would go and then shortened the center link most of the way I was able to get the rear of the rear blade 10" off the ground. If possible I would like to get another 4" of lift height at the rear of the blade. Is the extra height necessary or unreasonable?
I do not have a Hydraulic center link but I might be able to change to lift links I can shorten a little more than the ones on the tractor.
OR new Draft Links with holes in different locations OR Different Sway Links because when I tried swapping position of the sway link and the Lift Link, the sway links would not reach (were too short) the rear position hole on the Draft Link. The new position of the Lift Link (in the hole for the Sway Link) was a couple of inches higher as shown in photo # 2.
Hopefully I have attached a picture from the Operator's Manual that shows my setup.
Attachments
Compact1
Silver Member
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- Mar 24, 2005
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- Southwest Michigan
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- 2006 New Holland TC33DA with SS, R4 loaded tires, 2 rear remotes, arms rests, & rear light
Stuart,
The extra height is only necessary if you need the extra height. In other words, it is different from one application to the next. If you need to drive up and down steep banks, through ditches or other unlevel ground the extra height may be necessary - otherwise you will unintentionally dig a ditch. If you primarily run on level ground I would think 10" is pleanty of travel. Again, it's subjective and individual.
Just my opinion
We need pictures of the Frontier RB 1172 attached to your tractor in the total up, midway point and total down, with a couple different angles with the camera. Could it be the Frontier RB 1172 is too big for your tractor? As a standard post hole digger is almost too big for the 2305.
Compact1; I have had the same thought and most of my property is flat with slight slope except for the ditches I want to be able to clean using the blade in a tilted fashion. In order to use the tilt function I need the extra height on the blade.
Gizmo; I have some photos I can post after I go thru them. The 4300 is rated for the RB1172 blade. My Bushog Squealer weighs more and the 4300 has no problem raising it high enough to go over ditches so I do not think that is the problem.
If you look at the picture of the lift arms I posted above the closer arm is raised higher than the other because I moved the Lift Link closer to the tractor. The other arm is in the original position. I would need longer anti-sway links to make this configuration work. When I did get my sway link attached it was too short and hit the inside of the tire.
Gizmo; I have some photos I can post after I go thru them. The 4300 is rated for the RB1172 blade. My Bushog Squealer weighs more and the 4300 has no problem raising it high enough to go over ditches so I do not think that is the problem.
If you look at the picture of the lift arms I posted above the closer arm is raised higher than the other because I moved the Lift Link closer to the tractor. The other arm is in the original position. I would need longer anti-sway links to make this configuration work. When I did get my sway link attached it was too short and hit the inside of the tire.
Last edited:
jimmysisson
Veteran Member
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- Jul 11, 2005
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- 1993 NH 2120 (the best), 1974 MF 135 (sold, but solid), 1947 Farmall A (bought, sold, bought back, sold again), 1956 MH50 lbt (sold, in 1980, darn it)
I don't get it. Those lower arms look 2' off the floor. If your blade sits level, it should be plenty high. No?
Jim
Jim
Yeah, like pointing to the moon.
