Started this house in Dec 2005, finished in Oct 2007. I did the AC wiring, that was in Oct 2006. I put in a lot of can lights with the air tight trim kit. Then put CFLs in them. Only the 13 watt (60 watt equivalent) work. The larger sizes overheat and the case turns brown. Can lights have all the heat up high with the electronics. While there are differences in brands, it's basically a problem. LED lighting will have the same problem. As long as the light comes out the bottom and the electronics are in the top, the can light is a problem. I just had bad timing on the can lights, if I were doing it again every room would have a few sconces in them.
I did put in a number of sconces for bathroom mirror lights and also in locations where they would be on a lot such as halls and up high in the TV room. The bulbs are either "upright" (bulb up, electronics down) or horizontal. There, CFLs work great. So there is a big gap right now in fixture design and bulbs with electronics. I did have to change out the 12 bulbs in the kitchen from 23W CFLs to 60W Halogens. The kitchen/great room is where the window budget was blown, so we don't use them in the summer but do for dinner in the winter.
The key will be lights with electronics that let you remove the trim kit for a 5" can and put some thing in there. You might need to put a hole in the can to get a vent for cooling. I've seen a LED product for can lights like this, and at some point I'll check it out.
Home is set up for per-room HVAC control, as automation progresses that will happen. House has foam insulation (Selection 500), conditioned attic spaces, metal roof, 12 percent fenestration ratio, four foot overhangs and square sides with good compass orientation.
I've got two 40 amp 1000 to 1 CTs on the solar panels. I suspect that only one is needed since the currents _should_ be the same, that's all part of the learning curve. That's the first picture.
I've got 200 amp CTs on each leg of my breaker boxes, I'll have to make more of these PCBs to get that going so I can measure the power use in the house.
Tonight I just finished firing up a new cut of a PCB that does true RMS to DC conversion for the CTs. That's the second picture. 1 volt RMS in yields 4 volts DC out, true RMS, crest factor of about 3, frequency response good to over 1 KHz. Core part is a Linear Technology LTC1966. The PCB has 3 converters on it, they come out on a CAT5 which also has input power of 6-18 volts DC. With 12 volts for power, the board draws 5 mA including the LED.
All the wires have been run from the solar array to the house, all CAT5, connectors on. Tomorrow I should finally be able to take some readings

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This is right up there with trying out a new implement for your tractor....:laughing:
Pete