New Driveway and Polebarn

[PineRidge]

By the way were are the emoticons for the posts these days ??

John use the post reply, not the quick reply.

 

[JASTN70D]

Mike,

Not there for me either ??? Were on the page do they show I must have a setting wrong

 

[JASTN70D]

Sorry to get off track on the post but I got it in my settings. So back to the Show!

 

[JASTN70D]

I just heard about what seems to be a good deal on White steel siding for barns at something like .25 cents a square foot, Anyone know if that is a good price ?

 

[rswyan]

I'm in the process of designing my barn project for 2007 and greatly appreciate the detailed photos and explanations of your projects. I have a copy of your proposed floor plan sitting next to my bedside.

I am truely humbled.

It gives me something interesting to think about as I fall asleep. It seems I'm sleeping better these days...

I hope that's a good thing ......

What size vibration machine did you use to pack the gravel or did you not use one?

I haven't used one yet - with all that's going on inside the shed, driving the tractor around in there occasionally, moving stuff and so forth I figured I would wait until just before we were ready to do the 'crete - otherwise I think it would just end up getting disturbed.

The way it's looking now I might try and pour the center bay (24' x 42') yet this year - providing I can get a ceiling up over it. If I can do that, I think I can keep it heated enough for it cure properly even if it gets real cold. With the wall insulation it's been noticably warmer in there. And I think I may have a solution for the ceiling.

As to your question, from what I can recall ..... it seems that I've read on here at TBN that a "jumping jack" plate compactor would be the device of choice. I'll probably ask at the rental house what they recommend when I get ready to do it myself.

What is the thickness of the OSB you're putting up on the walls over the insulation?

I'm using 7/16" - it seems like a good compromise and value - it's in the sweet spot price-wise. Right now here it's running about $5.75 for a 4' x 8' sheet. In hindsight, going a little thicker on the bottom course might have been a good thing .... since that where the majority of the wear and tear will take place. Once you go over 7/16" though it starts getting pricey ..... another $2.20 per sheet will only get ya another 1/16" thickness ..... to get to around 3/4" thickness (23/32") it's 3x the cost of a sheet of 7/16".

The 7/16" has worked out good for the top courses for sure - they are light enough that I can: 1.) lift one and set it in place on top of the first course and hold it in place with my hand while I reach down to grab the finish nailer at my feet to tack up, 2.) walk one up a step ladder leaning against the wall to set it in place on the second course. To do this I need help - after I set it the wife leans a 14' ladder over against it to keep it from falling over and hands me the finish nailer to tack up.

Did you take a bid for spray in foam insulation, if so was it less cost effective?

Not really - but I feel I did read and look around enough on the web (and TBN) to become fairly sure that to get the same degree of insulation with spray-in foam it would have cost significantly more - even if I had gotten the foam and done it myself.

As an example, there is local manufacturer (Fomo Products, Norton, OH) that produces D-I-Y spray foam kits. Their "large" kit will do 605 sq. ft. at a 1" thickness and yield an R-value of 7 for that inch of foam. I would need just over 4 kits to do my walls at a 1" thickness.

I'm looking at a website right now that offers the kits .... they are around $700 per .... so that's $2800 for an R-7 wall .... and I would have still have to apply it myself. To get just an R-21 wall I'd need three inches of thickness - which would be around .... lessee ..... about $8500. I understand they offer "pallet" pricing (9 kits) .... it would have to be awfully good to get me to want to come to the party.

Thanks for your added details.

Hey, you're quite welcome. Glad to hear all my jabbering is of some use.

 

[rswyan]

John,

Yeah it has gone pretty well. I'm at the point now where I'll have to do even more trimming though (west wall and corners) and that will add some time. I'm also about out of OSB .... I'll probably go to Lowes tomorrow and pick up another 30 sheets if it isn't raining.

That would be great if you have some time available. Lynn is back running a supplemental van this week so my helper is gone.

 

[rswyan]

I just heard about what seems to be a good deal on White steel siding for barns at something like .25 cents a square foot, Anyone know if that is a good price ?

Yeah, I'd be interested in hearing too.

I found a guy (polebarn builder) in the some local classifieds that has some new Lester Uni-Rib white perforated panel for what seems like a good price. Sounds like it is "R" panel. It was ordered for a ceiling in a building they were building but ended up sitting outside a little too long and the finish isn't perfect at this point - but it isn't rusty either (according to him) .... I haven't seen it yet. If I take 3000 sq. ft. he'll go $0.25 sq. ft. on it (about $0.10 less than what he had it advertised for.) or $0.75 per lineal foot.

The only other comparision I have is I found another local guy on the web who sells steel panel at a discount - his "B" grade (blems) were $1.60 per lineal foot for a 3' wide panel and the "A" grade stuff was $1.89 lineal foot.

Anybody got anymore data points for comparision ?

 

[rswyan]

Do you have to let it dry first, or do you seal it up wet?

Eddie,

FWIW, I was checking NuWools website the other day and I noticed that they say you can hang your drywall within 24 hours after the insulation has been sprayed in.

 

[rswyan]

Ok folks, time to raise this thread up again ........ like Lazarus risen from the dead.

Long story short, a few years ago some things changed for us, I ended up going back to work .... and completion of the polebarn languished.

Over the last month or two, taking some time off work, I've managed to get things mostly back to the point where I stopped back in 2006, plus even moving beyond that a wee bit. Winter is on it's way, and I'm trying to finish up everything on the outside before the weather turns bad.

Mostly what I've spent my time on is work on outside the structure. I've taken down roughly 40 to 50 trees of various sizes, most of them fairly tall (40' to 60'), that posed a hazard as far as getting blown over onto the barn, and were in the way of grading. I now have about 40 or more feet of open perimeter around the barn.

We've also installed another row of P.T. skirtboard (rated for ground contact) below the single skirtboard Cleary installed, to aid in backfilling and the pour of the concrete floor.

As things currently set, the skirtboards would be below grade (around 8" or so )if I backfilled and graded now.

The building has 1' overhangs, 6" gutters (which will be run to hard pipe) .... the eventual plan is to pour a 3' or 4' concrete apron around all four outside walls - but that won't happen until after the floor is poured .... so probably not until some time next summer or fall.

The skirtboard, while rated for ground contact, is probably not rated for being buried - so I'm toying with a couple of ideas to keep moisture away from both the skirtboard and the poles. My thoughts are to cover the skirtboards with some heavy Visqueen/plastic sheeting, and then run that out another 5' away from the polebarn and backfill on top of the sheeting - so that any moisture would flow away from the building.

Idea was that I would backfill out 3' with washed gravel on top of the Visqueen (as base for the concrete apron), and then cover the last 2' of the Visqueen with topsoil.

Another thought I had was to run the Visqueen as above and then run 12" or so 1/2" expanded polystyrene on the skirtboard over top of the Visqueen. I'm planning on running PEX for floor heat inside the barn, and will insulate the interior side of the skirtboards with at least 2" of expanded polystyrene as well.

Due to how the building pad was cut into a bank, the ground around barn is prone to being on the damp side, particularly on the north and east sides (the worst places, due to the amounts of shade both areas get)

Thoughts ?

(new pictures to follow later today)

 

[PineRidge]

Randy I'm glad you finally made some time to get your barn finished up. If I had some spare time I would be more than happy to help. My job is presently keeping me hopping and I'm not complaining, other than the fact that it leaves me less time for flying.