Buying Advice Ballast Box vs Wheel Weights vs Filled Tires

[Diavolicchio]

Hey folks,

Yes, I meant filled TIRES, but I didn't catch it until too late.

I'm soon to be buying my first tractor for a young farm and orchard I've got underway here in Maine. I've decided to go with a 2010 Kubota B3030HSTC, but I need some advice about how best to weigh down the back of it when I'm using the front loader for heavy lifting. I'm also dealing with the additional challenge of storage space for the tractor.

I've got a long, narrow garage being built that will have about 14' of depth at the front of it to accommodate the tractor with the front loader mounted (see diagram below.) The dealer measured the model I'm interested in and said it will require 12'2" with the front loader attached. He also suggested that a add a ballast box on the back to counter-balance the tractor when I'm using the front loader.

I don't believe I'm going to have the additional space in my garage to accommodate the tractor with both the front loader and ballast box attached, so I wanted to hear people's thoughts on going with wheel weights or overfilling the tires to help achieve the same thing. Will they achieve the same results as a ballast box? Would I need to do both?

Here's a basic diagram of the garage, so you can see the space constraints I'm trying to work around:

I'd appreciate any feedback. Thanks.


John

 

[kennyd]

Re: Ballast Box vs Wheel Weights vs Filled Tired

Ballasted tires are NOT a substitute for rear weight on the 3PH. You need the weight behind the rear axle to properly take weight off of the front axle. Think of it like a see-saw where you want the rear tires to be the fulcrum point.

Get some type of QH for your 3PH if you can't keep the weight attached.

 

[PHILIP8N]

Re: Ballast Box vs Wheel Weights vs Filled Tired

I have had liquid filled tires and a ballest box. I like the ballest box because you can remove the extra weight when you don't need it. I also got one flat with filled tires, what a mess. Philip.

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

Re: Ballast Box vs Wheel Weights vs Filled Tired

I've always used a boxblade or tiller for rear weight. They provide the weight and the boxblade is one of the most versatile implements made for a tractor. Weight with a purpose and not just weight for weight. I've usually filled tires on B and bigger tractors for weight on the footprint for traction and stability. Make sure your tire weight filler is freezeproof, like antifreeze.

 

[Baby Grand]

Re: Ballast Box vs Wheel Weights vs Filled Tired

Ballasted tires are NOT a substitute for rear weight on the 3PH.

I agree 100% with Kenny on this. The ability to unload your front axle will help you prevent damage to that vital component.

The frequency of broken & leaking front axle threads on this forum seems to be an indicator that the front axle is one of our compact utility tractor's greatest weaknesses. So far, I have done fine with appropriate 3PH ballast and without loaded tires, but I haven't been doing much work on large slopes. 3PH ballast is very easy to adjust to the particular task you are doing.

What will you be using your tractor for?

-Jim

 

[TripleR]

Re: Ballast Box vs Wheel Weights vs Filled Tired

I have never used a B3030, but I have never found loaded tires or wheel weights alone on my tractors from 22 to 85 HP to provide enough counter weight to get the full use of a FEL. I have operated them sans 3-point counter weight, but I certainly don't recommend it.

You can however put enough weight on your 3-point to operate effectively. I personally prefer both.

 

[k0ua]

Re: Ballast Box vs Wheel Weights vs Filled Tired

You need both. My 3pt ballast is home-made 55 gal drum and only sticks out behind the 3 pt maybe 15 inches? I dont have an exact measurement, but it is not much. You might be able to get away with using something like that. Mine weighs about 750 lbs. Makes a lot of difference, and so do the loaded tires. When you rotary cutter is on, you want the loaded tires to help with stability on slopes, and when you have your ballast on, it unloads the front axle when you are lifting heavy loads with the FEL. Beside if you dont have weight on the back, using the FEL is scarey, and very ineffiecient, lots of wheel spin, and very tippy. If your ballast wont fit, you can take it off each time. I have the Carter quick hitch devices, pretty cheap and they work well. And they do not extend your lower link length any. They hitch up on the top of the lower links, in line with the original ball's. So your lower link hitch point is higher not longer, and your original PTO length should be ok.
James K0UA

 

[Mighty Dodge]

Re: Ballast Box vs Wheel Weights vs Filled Tired

I have weights on the wheels but when doing serious lifting I also put on the 3pt ballast.

M.D.

 

[texasjohn]

Re: Ballast Box vs Wheel Weights vs Filled Tired

If I were faced with the challenge, I'd see if the following would work with the space and situation available.

1. fill rear tires with fluid that won't freeze
2. have quick attach on FEL
3. store bucket outside, won't hurt it, easy on, easy off
4. when garaged, FEL can be raised saving space, make a block for cylinders to rest on so hyd pressure can be relieved while FEL is raised
5. leave box blade on rear as weight, handy tool to own, can construct a platform on it to carry tools, chains, further weight.

Note, I fear that your space will be so tight that it'll be difficult to work in there or get supplies with both vehicles inside, but I know that sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do.

 

[jonyyuma]

Re: Ballast Box vs Wheel Weights vs Filled Tired

Personally, I would have added another foot to the planned garage, Because, when I have my tiller attached it becomes very close to garage door. That extra foot would have been nice. I also like the idea of the roll of concrete for a ballast box, with the quick connects.jy

 

[rjkobbeman]

I had to do some creative "cramming" in order to fit everything in my garage. Until I am able to build my out-building, things will have to remain this way.

Everything fits except my ballast box. I simply leave it outside. I didn't want to leave any of my new tractor stuff outside, but it really is just a steel box with concrete in it. I have it sitting on six landscaping blocks to keep it off of the grass. I figured keeping a few inches above the ground will slow down any rusting/rotting from sitting in damp grass/dirt.

 

[easygo]

Get the filled tires and something for weight on the 3pt hitch. You can just fill a 35 gallon garbage can with concrete with a properly placed draw bar in it and that will only stick out about 8-10". If doing loader work without ballast in the back you will put too much pressure on the front axle and the rear tires will have absolutely NO traction. In a bad case they can just come right up into the air. If you are a thrill seeker that could be a good source of costly surprises.

 

[Grandad4]

Welcome to TBN. As you can see, there is plenty of good advice to be found here. The ballast/weight advice is very sound, I think. Regarding your storage building, I've got just a couple of other thoughts, based on some experience at our place. First, if your tractor is blocked in by your car, it increases the hassle factor of getting it out and putting it away each time you use it. If you also have to attach and detach your 3pt implement each time due to space limitations, that will add even more complexity to its regular use. You'll have to decide how much of a bother that will be based on how often you'll use it, but that would get old very fast, as they say, at my place. Don't know if it's feasible at your building site or within your budget, but is there any chance to add a second door at the tractor end of the building?

The other idea was just something to be aware of since it sounds like some dirt work is planned for the B3030. Keeping your tractor indoors is one of those "pay me now or pay me later" situations. You either clean up the tractor - particularly the tires - of dirt and mud before you put it away, every time, or you'll sweep it up later from the floor, because it all dries up and drops off the next time you move the tractor. If your car is sharing the same garage, you'll want to keep after the dirt even more.

But congrats on the new B3030. That's a really nice unit.

 

[Snapper Head]

Re: Ballast Box vs Wheel Weights vs Filled Tired

I have had liquid filled tires and a ballest box. I like the ballest box because you can remove the extra weight when you don't need it. I also got one flat with filled tires, what a mess. Philip.

Philip,

I just got my shiny new orange ballast box and was thinking about filling it with concrete like you did. Any regrets about doing that?


Big Al

 

[RoyJackson]

Filled tires are great to aid stability to a tractor...not much for traction though (although I'm sure filled tires to add to traction).
Until you use a ballast box or similar, you won't realize how much that weight helps in productivity. Balancing out the weight on the front axle is very important...but not something one can "feel" or experience (at least I can't)...but I can sure see the loader diving into a pile of material that previously stopped me in my tracks (even with filled tires)!

 

[whistlepig]

I have a B7800 that is about the same size as a B3030. I just added a Kubota B8160 ballast box. It adds 16" length to the back of the tractor, weighs 100# and holds 500# of sand. My tires are filled and I bought the ballast box primarily for added weight moving snow. But as RoyJackson says it makes one heck of a difference in traction moving dirt and gravel with my FEL.

 

[PHILIP8N]

Re: Ballast Box vs Wheel Weights vs Filled Tired

Philip,

I just got my shiny new orange ballast box and was thinking about filling it with concrete like you did. Any regrets about doing that?


Big Al

No regets, but I have only had it filled for a few months now. Are you ever going to dump your ballest once you put it in there? I did not plan on it. Concrete is very dense, about the most weight for the buck. Stable, will not soak up water and freeze. I have the top painted Kubota orange now, looks pretty good. If you plan to do yours, caulk all seams with silicone and duct tape the drain holes. Philip.

 

[PHILIP8N]

Filled tires are great to aid stability to a tractor...not much for traction though (although I'm sure filled tires to add to traction).

Filled tires on my 8N are night and day. Makes a BIG difference in traction. On plow day, impressed many folks with larger JD's, AC's, and Cases. Philip.

 

[whistlepig]

Re: Ballast Box vs Wheel Weights vs Filled Tired

No regets, but I have only had it filled for a few months now. Are you ever going to dump your ballest once you put it in there? I did not plan on it. Concrete is very dense, about the most weight for the buck. Stable, will not soak up water and freeze. I have the top painted Kubota orange now, looks pretty good. If you plan to do yours, caulk all seams with silicone and duct tape the drain holes. Philip.

I think I will fill mine with concrete. I can see the sand getting nasty in a couple of years. And, as PHILIP8N says, it's about the most weight for buck if you research it.

 

[The Haymaker]

Re: Ballast Box vs Wheel Weights vs Filled Tired

I agree 100% with Kenny on this. The ability to unload your front axle will help you prevent damage to that vital component.



-Jim

If anything, running weights will INCREASE load on the front axle. It is still the load bearing point, probably fulcrum is a better word. Adding rear weight allows more weight to be place on the front axle without the "safety valve" of a load lifting the rear end.

Now for my two cents. I have loaded tires which are heavy enough to keep me on the ground with most uses except for digging loam. If I was buying again, would I load again? Probably not. I have some soft areas where lighter tires would be a plus. It's easy to remove a weight box, not so easy to remove ballast or wheel weights. But, at the same time, the work to stabilize the CG on some of the slopes I mow. It's a tough call.