BH question

[Pixguy]

Here are newbie Bh question(s)...... Have had my GC TLB for only 1 week with about 4 total hrs. life BH experience, so given that. Today I was digging a trench down an incline on the edge of new ledge-pak driveway in very rocky soil.

One problem I was having was the machine sliding when I was digging and trying to pry lg. rocks out. Was this inexperience, the outrigger pad should have been turn to the grab position, or both?

Another question is about switching back and forth between moving the machine and the BH. The seat is a pain to turn and I got to think that there has to be an easier way to drive the machine 6 feet than to change the seat?
Does everyone disconnect the safety switch and sit on the metal or make a temp seat to move the scut?:confused2:

Thanks in advance.

 

[ray66v]

One problem I was having was the machine sliding when I was digging and trying to pry lg. rocks out. Was this inexperience, the outrigger pad should have been turn to the grab position, or both?

These machines are very light weight, consequently you need to do your digging by curling the bucket. Then, pull the bucket towards you to fill it with the loosened material. When you master this technique, you will not have problems with the machine moving.

Another question is about switching back and forth between moving the machine and the BH. The seat is a pain to turn and I got to think that there has to be an easier way to drive the machine 6 feet than to change the seat?

Simply raise the outriggers and the FEL, then use the BH to pull the machine to your next spot.

Does everyone disconnect the safety switch and sit on the metal or make a temp seat to move the scut?:confused2:
Thanks in advance.

No, everyone does not disconnect the switch, but some do.

 

[Mock1]

I have a sponge mat that I put on the seat if I have to move. Alot better than sitting on the springs. I did jumper out the safety switch though, it's a pain in the ***. If you don't have your foot on the pedal, then it's gonna stop. I agree though, flipping the seat can be a PITA.

 

[Pixguy]

These machines are very light weight, consequently you need to do your digging by curling the bucket. Then, pull the bucket towards you to fill it with the loosened material. When you master this technique, you will not have problems with the machine moving.



Simply raise the outriggers and the FEL, then use the BH to pull the machine to your next spot.



No, everyone does not disconnect the switch, but some do.

I dug the trench and backed up, how would I "pull" to the next spot? Do you mean push or am I digging improperly?

 

[ray66v]

Rather than back up, extend out the bucket, put it in the ground, and pull the tractor backwards with the controls.

It sounds like you could really benefit from spending some time watching an experienced operator work.

 

[Pixguy]

Rather than back up, extend out the bucket, put it in the ground, and pull the tractor backwards with the controls.

It sounds like you could really benefit from spending some time watching an experienced operator work.

Thanks Ray, I'm sure that would help! :thumbsup: It would have been good if the salesman gave some service after the sale.

Working on a decline, I have always lowered the loader and set the E-Brake, so i'm not sure if that allows the pulling?

After reading the 29 pages of Wacky's experience earlier this summer and what can happen on hills, I want to take my time learning.

Bill

 

[ray66v]

Thanks Ray, I'm sure that would help! :thumbsup: It would have been good if the salesman gave some service after the sale.

Working on a decline, I have always lowered the loader and set the E-Brake, so i'm not sure if that allows the pulling?


Bill

I would not necessarily use the Parking brake in that situation, but yes, you could have it engaged and lift the wheels enough to allow the machine to move.

If your a novice, I would not recommend you practice this, or any operations, on a hill. As you know, lots of things can happen. If you panic and put in the wrong input, you can quickly find your self in a dangerous situation.

If you must operate on an incline, for now, I suggest you continue to drive the tractor.

As you become more experienced, you will dig without thinking about it. Then, you can react quickly, and properly, in the event of a problem.

As far as the seat being a pain, many of these seats are not well aligned. Which can make raising, and lowering it, a pain.

If your seat is hard to operate, it could probably use some tweaking.

The alignment pin, and the hole, should match up precisely, when it closes down. If they do not, the hole can be slightly enlarged. Or, when the seat is up, you can put a long bar just under the seat, through the supports, and twist them very slightly in the direction needed, to get the pin and hole to match up. It should not take much to do so.

Occasional adjustment may be necessary to assure smooth operation.

When the seat works like it is supposed to, it is very easy to raise, or lower.

If your not mechanically inclined, you may want to consult with someone who is experienced, rather than attempt adjustment yourself.

 

[ScottW]

Regarding operator position while using the BH, I often just sit on top of the seat back instead of turning the seat around. I'm 6' tall, so I have to bend over a bit to have my head miss the ROPS bar when sitting on the seat back, but for short stints it's tolerable.

Curling the bucket to loosen material is great. But if you must pull with the dipper stick with some force, as in when you want to scratch the surface over a large area just to loosen it, then chocking the rear wheels can help. Ditto for operating on a hill. Placing and removing the chocks is another thing to do, but they can be very helpful (and reassuring on a hill).

 

[tungularafishcamp]

I flip my front bucket around so it digs the blade into the ground and it holds me pretty stable, does tear up ground tho. If I am just doin a little digging or just grabbin something I just turn halfway in the seat or put one knee in the drivers seat instead of getting in backhoe seat.
:2cents:
Rick

 

[tx2310]

After reworking the seat on my 2310 I can change from one position to the other and back in under 6 sec. Some where years ago I wrote what I did. But aligning things helps a bunch.

Doug
Speedy Seat

 

[LBrown59]

Here are newbie Bh question(s)...... Have had my GC TLB for only 1 week with about 4 total hrs. life BH experience, so given that. Today I was digging a trench down an incline on the edge of new ledge-pak driveway in very rocky soil.

One problem I was having was the machine sliding when I was digging and trying to pry lg. rocks out. Was this inexperience, the outrigger pad should have been turn to the grab position, or both?

*Another question is about switching back and forth between moving the machine and the BH. The seat is a pain to turn and I got to think that there has to be an easier way to drive the machine 6 feet than to change the seat?
Does everyone disconnect the safety switch and sit on the metal or make a temp seat to move the scut?:confused2:

Thanks in advance.

*I don't switch I simply raise the BH bucket and the stabilizers 2 or 3 inches above the ground.
Next i take an 18 to 24 inch stick in my right hand and operate the treadle pedal to move the tractor backward or forward.

 

[Pixguy]

After reworking the seat on my 2310 I can change from one position to the other and back in under 6 sec. Some where years ago I wrote what I did. But aligning things helps a bunch.

Doug
Speedy Seat

Thanks guys,
Here is the link Doug spoke of. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/massey-ferguson-owning-operating/124213-new-guy-looking-2610-tractor-2.html#post1430238

I was able to dig the 80' trench on the hill in boney material without many problems, but i will go slow and will keep your tips in mind. I am looking for a thumb to move the breadbox sized rocks around, but only want to spend 2-300 bucks for the bolt mounted type. Suggestions?:anyone:
Thanks

 

[KPark]

I am looking for a thumb to move the breadbox sized rocks around, but only want to spend 2-300 bucks for the bolt mounted type. Suggestions?:anyone:
Thanks

You might be able to build one for that, but the one I've settled on is here.

 

[rjmack]

a jumper in the connector under the seat will circumvent the seat switch. my thoughts are this will be very helpful during breaking in period as the frequent on/off effect of the switch can't be good for the motor.

of course, if you are new to the machine and working on a hillside, i would say you are in a very vulnerable position. six of one, half a dozen of the other i guess, but it might be a good idea to just wait on the seat switch bypass.

far as spinning the seat around, i always do it from the side opposite the fel joystick, it seems a lot more natural to do it from that side and i don't have any problem spinning it in a few seconds, either direction.

far as walking the machine and using the backhoe in general, i think it would be worth your while to do some practice on flat ground. those things can get away from an inexperienced operator pretty quick and nobody wants to park 3000 pounds on top of themselves.

when i was beginning, i would put the fel bucket against the ground but usually don't do that anymore as is not really necessary most of the time.

when digging in hard to break apart ground it seems to be easier to have the machine higher up on the stabilizers and dig close to the machine. that seems to make it easier to pull material up and out.

when digging in softer material or taking smaller bites you can get a longer reach keeping the machine close to the ground, just high enough to get the back tires in the air.

i almost always operate with the cleat side of the stabilizer pad down.

when you are trenching, pushing the machine away from the trench as you go, it helps to keep the front wheels pointed the direction you want to travel. its easy enough to just reach around and turn the steering wheel prior to the move to keep things pointed the right direction.

also, when walking with the boom, you effectively lift the machine in an arc as you are pushing it. i think its important to allow the full travel of the boom, to the point where the outriggers settle back onto the ground rather than letting go of the levers in mid move. doing this puts an enormous strain on the hydraulic system and the boom pins involved. (not to mention the strain on your bladder as you realize the machine is teetering in mid-air and you really don't know what to do next)

it definitely takes some practice, but once you get the hang of it you can dig for hours and move the machine many hundreds of feet without ever getting out of the operators seat. diagonal moves aren't a problem, forward/backward, basically whatever you want to do in terms of moving the machine around can be very easily done.

don't forget hearing protection, lots of grease on the pins, and have fun:thumbsup:

 

[Jaylegger]

I found a the largest improvement in BH performance pulling out rocks and digging out stumps and minimizing the tractor being thrown around is utilizing the boom float position. Allowing the boom to float maximizes bucket and dipper break-out forces.

 

[radioman]

MY BX is same as your GC. I find that I when working on a hill facing down is not the best way to dig BH. I rather face upwards, let the gravity do the work of digging for me. I just set the FEL with front edge driven to ground. When I need to move, I use the BH to move me around. IF I need to reposition, I have 2 seat switches I just press with one hand and my other hand on steering wheel to drive around and operate HST pedal. I dont have a need to bypass it.

You might want to look at achinbac mods. He added a lever with a switch to bypass safety switch momentarily and use lever to move forward or backward in the unused slot by the 3 pt.

 

[Pixguy]

I found a the largest improvement in BH performance pulling out rocks and digging out stumps and minimizing the tractor being thrown around is utilizing the boom float position. Allowing the boom to float maximizes bucket and dipper break-out forces.

Hey Jay, can you say this slower and in simpler terms for a greenie?? :mur:

 

[Jaylegger]

I'll try. I find that when digging out difficult objects often times the bucket curling function is impeded by forces other than the object you're attempting to move. Forces such as the back of the bucket contacting and getting hung up on the ground behind or beneath it even though it appears it's the object only. Floating the boom relieves much of these extraneous unwanted forces which are jerking the tractor around as opposed to being channeled productively into moving the object in the ground. Break that bond and very little of the available hydraulic power is wasted. The difference is productivity especially when breaking through roots is remarkable...imo.

 

[tsteahr]

For trying to break free stubborn rocks and roots, I have found using a simultaneous combination of bucket curl, dipper extension and boom lift to generate the best results. Hold your arm out in front of you with your palm down. Pretend your hand is the bucket and your fingers are the teeth. Now curl your wrist toward you while moving your hand up and away from yourself. That is the motion I am talking about. It seems to be very effective at ripping roots away from a stump.

But my experience is VERY limited. When digging a stump (or rock) I generally try to dig from the side furthest away from my position. Using the combination of curl, dipper extension and boom lift at the same time seems to generate the greatest force at the bucket teeth while not pulling the machine toward the stump (or hole). When I am positioned correctly, if a root breaks free it will tend to fly away from my position on the tractor. (Before I started using this method, more than once I had been showered with dirt when a root finally lets go and springs toward me).

What I to have to be careful of is lifting the front of the tractor into the air. Adding weight into the front bucket can be a major help, but the BH is very strong and I don't want to over stress the machine. If I'm lifting the front of the tractor into the air, it's telling me I should let her down gently, ease up a bit and work around the area a little more.

I hope the above makes some sense. It's what I have figured out with my limited experience, and not wanting to have dirt fly up at me . What I can say is don't be afraid to use multiple functions at once. You have a bunch of hydraulic cylinders there, experiment with different combinations and see what happens. With time you will get a feel of how to apply force, in what direction and to avoid binding that Jaylegger is talking about.

 

[Pixguy]

Thanks for the help!:thumbsup: