Winch Modifications

[J_J]

You will also need one of these to go with the solenoid valve.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?catname=hydraulic&item=9-5883-1

If you want the winch to lock, don't use a motor spool, use a tandem center valve.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-6136&catname=hydraulic

 

[BobRip]

I bought one of these today http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-7861&catname=hydraulic. from surplus center.

 

[J_J]

Bob, does any of your valves have PB? Maybe you are going to install the new valve first in line.

 

[BobRip]

Bob, does any of your valves have PB? Maybe you are going to install the new valve first in line.

Yes, they have power beyond. I think this valve will work here.

 

[FAZTRAC]

BobRip
Sympathize with your winch issues. We looked at the PT winch and decided against it, because couldn't figure out how to spool the cable out without powering, and it takes way too much effort to freespool/turn a geroler motor. So... took a QA plate and welded two parallel two inch towing receivers on it for front end, and then welded (2) two inch receivers on the back of the PT near the bottom back corners that correspond to the identical spacing of front QA receivers, mounted a Mile Marker hyd. winch on a plate with clutches to free spool, and two speeds for less than the cost of the PT winch. It plugs into the towing receivers at either end of the PT or remotely to nylon straps so we made up longer hoses that will let us also hook the winch to a nearby tree for the hard pulls using the steering oil from the forward quick disconnects, but also planning to install two tandem center 12V solenoid valves in the engine compartment to operate the winch and a hyd. gantry boom with a chain hook on the back of the PT to haul/lift logs, or get us unstuck from the back end. Two joysticks at panel run back winch and lift cylinder from oil tapped (in series)in engine comp. before it runs forward to steering.

 

[MossRoad]

BobRip
Sympathize with your winch issues. We looked at the PT winch and decided against it, because couldn't figure out how to spool the cable out without powering, and it takes way too much effort to freespool/turn a geroler motor. So... took a QA plate and welded two parallel two inch towing receivers on it for front end, and then welded (2) two inch receivers on the back of the PT near the bottom back corners that correspond to the identical spacing of front QA receivers, mounted a Mile Marker hyd. winch on a plate with clutches to free spool, and two speeds for less than the cost of the PT winch. It plugs into the towing receivers at either end of the PT or remotely to nylon straps so we made up longer hoses that will let us also hook the winch to a nearby tree for the hard pulls using the steering oil from the forward quick disconnects, but also planning to install two tandem center 12V solenoid valves in the engine compartment to operate the winch and a hyd. gantry boom with a chain hook on the back of the PT to haul/lift logs, or get us unstuck from the back end. Two joysticks at panel run back winch and lift cylinder from oil tapped (in series)in engine comp. before it runs forward to steering.

I think we'd all love to see a thread and pictures of that! :thumbsup:

 

[FAZTRAC]

Hey Moss, I'm computer illiterate and don't know how to insert pictures but I can e mail you pictures of what I built, I got that part down. FAZ

 

[BobRip]

BobRip
Sympathize with your winch issues. We looked at the PT winch and decided against it, because couldn't figure out how to spool the cable out without powering, and it takes way too much effort to freespool/turn a geroler motor. So... took a QA plate and welded two parallel two inch towing receivers on it for front end, and then welded (2) two inch receivers on the back of the PT near the bottom back corners that correspond to the identical spacing of front QA receivers, mounted a Mile Marker hyd. winch on a plate with clutches to free spool, and two speeds for less than the cost of the PT winch. It plugs into the towing receivers at either end of the PT or remotely to nylon straps so we made up longer hoses that will let us also hook the winch to a nearby tree for the hard pulls using the steering oil from the forward quick disconnects, but also planning to install two tandem center 12V solenoid valves in the engine compartment to operate the winch and a hyd. gantry boom with a chain hook on the back of the PT to haul/lift logs, or get us unstuck from the back end. Two joysticks at panel run back winch and lift cylinder from oil tapped (in series)in engine comp. before it runs forward to steering.

You made the right choice for the right reasons. No manual spool out is a pain, especially when the controls are in the front and the winch is in the back. I just helped a friend install a Mile Maker hyd winch on a jeep and it is nice. It is slow, but it has two speeds (high speed appears to be just for wind and unwind with no torque) and freewheeling. I would swap in a heart beat, but I think my friend would notice.

 

[J_J]

FAZTRAC,

What is the operating pressure on the Mile Marker hyd winch ? I thought they were around 1500 psi. If so, did you install a relief valve in the circuit, or does the two spool valve have relief?

For posting pictures. read post #2


http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2206664#post2206664

 

[FAZTRAC]

JJ

Thanks for the picture info. We'll see if my Neanderthal brain can figure out pictures, I'm functionally illiterate.

Mile Marker requests no pressures over 1500 which achieves 7,000 lbs pull. Using Vickers crossover double relief valve (cushion valve) that is adjusts 600 to 3400 psi which mounts to winch frame. If pulling pressure exceeds set pressures it just dumps the oil into the returning oil, and also absorbs the momentary shocks while pulling. Also have a pressure guage T'd into the pulling circuit mounted on dash that lets me know whats going on. This winch far exceeds the holding capacity of the 425, so welding a hook directly behind the winch frame that allow my nylon straps to go back under the tractor around a tree and back to the winch so the stress of pulling tough logs bypasses the tractor frame, and the load is transferred directly to the tree base. I can do this from either front or back of tractor, or just drop the winch frame in front of a convenient tree, nylon strap it to tree, and just feed it oil from my 425 through the 12' long hoses with quick disconects. The cushion valve always stays with the winch frame. It makes it versatile.
Strong like bull