Ballast BX2360 Ballast options and total weight

[azzip]

Hello all -

After almost tipping my new BX2360 on a grade with a slight bucket full of material, I have acknowledged the need for a good ballast. I was considering ballasting the tires, but have decided against that, as I would like the option to drop the ballast for mowing, seeing as my yard has several rather moist area when I mow. I have read that I can use a 55 gallon barrel and some concrete. My idea is to use something (length of steel, some sort of top link adapter, whatever is cheaper) for toplink and a drawbar inserted through barrel at a couple of inches higher than the lowest point my lift arms go for the bottom links. I figure that I will have to cut down the barrel, and round the edge, make a bit of a tool carrier by leaving some steel above the line the concrete goes. Paint the whole thing Kubota orange, to prevent some rust out of the barrel (match!).

My biggest question is - how big should I make it for the Bx2360. The manual states that at the link ends the lift is 550kg, or 1210lbs. I was thinking to shoot for somewhere between 300-500lbs for the ballast. Anyone with experience with this tractor have any suggestions? Also any good suggestions for making the ballast?

Thanks!

 

[Haywire]

What kind of implements do you have for the back? I put my box blade on.

Ian

 

[TripleR]

I have wheel weights on my BX2660 and still put my BB on the back. Without the wheel weights, I would want three to five hundred pounds on the 3-point.

 

[RoyJackson]

My biggest question is - how big should I make it for the Bx2360. The manual states that at the link ends the lift is 550kg, or 1210lbs. I was thinking to shoot for somewhere between 300-500lbs for the ballast. Anyone with experience with this tractor have any suggestions? Also any good suggestions for making the ballast?

Thanks!

Your loader manual should have some information on ballasting. That would be the first thing to review.
My ballast is about 600 lbs (sand, in a ballast box). That's the minimum I would suggest for your tractor.

 

[azzip]

I found that page in the manual. Thanks for the heads up, I didn't realize that I was missing that page - the manual for my FEL got wet before I took delivery of the tractor, but I thought I managed to get all the pages unstuck - I didn't. Found the info on that page.

Anyways, it says 420lbs for ballast weight, I may shoot for about this seeing as I will add a cheaper quick hitch (Harbor Freight) that weighs about 60lbs, bringing me pretty close to 500lbs total weight.

I don't have any implements yet, I will (hopefully) be adding a box blade soon, but need to ballast closer to now, and I would prefer a compact ballast option as well. I may also grab a carryall, and just set up ballast on that, and its more useful, carrying items, and maybe even building a custom boom sprayer.

Thanks for the help!

 

[Haywire]

Sorry about the phone pic... but this ammo box cost me $15 at a flea market and it holds about 300lbs of lead in the form of wheel weights that I melted down and poured into forms.

It would be compact weight for you if you rigged a way to attach it to your 3ph. It's just sitting there btw, I set it up there yesterday for a test, but that little strap isn't going to do the job.

Ian

 

[Gods Country]

You should still load your tires IMO. A couple moist spots in your yard shouldn't be an issue. My scut recommends loaded tires and ballast weight. If I'm just moving a few loads here and there I don't use rear ballast, but for long jobs it's essential.
Not to mention it handles far better. It's a completely different machine when properly ballasted.

Operating your bx the way you are currently isn稚 only dangerous, but I would think not good for the front axle.

 

[tuoysRme]

I have foam filled tires as well as wheel weights. between foam and weights four hunderd pounds. but I can put six hundred pound on the forks and not have a problem. the rear end does get light. but if I need ballast I can added more to the 3 pt hitch.
so the better you balance your tractor the safer it will be and less pucker time.

 

[bikerdib]

I understand your not wanting the weight on the tractor all the time but the good thing about liquid filled tires on the rear is the weight is about as low to the ground as possible. That makes things much more stable.

 

[Haywire]

Looked in my manual and it recommended 420lbs of ballast. My box blade is probably only about half that. It's light duty and the box is shorter front to back than a normal HD one. My tires are loaded though, so that helps.

Ian

 

[azzip]

I may consider 50% Rimguard at the 50hr service, I know that this may sound strange but I know for a fact that 375 or so lbs in the particular 1/4 acre of my property is the difference between light tracks and ruts. I inadvertently tested that (difference in weight between tractor MMM, and tractor, MMM, FEL) and since that was in the same day within a couple of hours I would say it's the tractor weight instead of a change of soil conditions. This is a preference in my case since I have the luxury of the choice (no extensive hills, almost completely flat, really only one on the driveway and that's the one I had problems with - rear 3pt ballast would have been better in that case anyways).

Honestly up until the other day my FEL was only used lightly, I bought the tractor just before the end of last years mowing season, and didn't have to move any deep snows during the winter (luckily). The project I had was done in response prevention of basement flooding (worked by the way), and had to be done quickly in response to flood warnings (my pile of dirt just defrosted for the first time since I had it delivered, nothing like rain then a perpetual freeze...).

Anyways thanks for the responses!

 

[Tom_H]

My Woods backhoe works well, as does my Gannon box blade, which is commercial grade and weight in a small width. I have it rigged such that I can add a batch of old disc free weights that I bought really cheap on Craigslist. I could use my carry-all with a homemade frame to attach a bunch of those barbell weights.

When I mow with my BX, I need it to be light. For this reason, I would never load my tires. The turf can support the weight as is when damp, but would not support anything heavier, but that's just my clay topsoil that gets waterlogged because the Duripan below doesn't let the water perc down. Other types of soil and better slope/drainage make this not an issue for many BX owners.

 

[Kevinc2004]

I have loaded tires on my BX1860 and would not have it any other way. A ripper across those wet areas, then level and reseed the grass would improve the drainage. Anothe possiblity is a french drain or modified French drain to carry the excess water away.
We have WONDERFUL RED CLAY in our area, and if it dont drain, it turns to a pit full of mud.

 

[radioman]

I may consider 50% Rimguard at the 50hr service, I know that this may sound strange but I know for a fact that 375 or so lbs in the particular 1/4 acre of my property is the difference between light tracks and ruts. I inadvertently tested that (difference in weight between tractor MMM, and tractor, MMM, FEL) and since that was in the same day within a couple of hours I would say it's the tractor weight instead of a change of soil conditions. This is a preference in my case since I have the luxury of the choice (no extensive hills, almost completely flat, really only one on the driveway and that's the one I had problems with - rear 3pt ballast would have been better in that case anyways).

Honestly up until the other day my FEL was only used lightly, I bought the tractor just before the end of last years mowing season, and didn't have to move any deep snows during the winter (luckily). The project I had was done in response prevention of basement flooding (worked by the way), and had to be done quickly in response to flood warnings (my pile of dirt just defrosted for the first time since I had it delivered, nothing like rain then a perpetual freeze...).

Anyways thanks for the responses!

If I were you, I would reconsider your thinking. I am too in the exact same boat as you. I bought my BX since it has 4 wheel drive so I can mow the wet areas. On one side of my house it wet alot during spring and fall. I didnt want the liquid ballast in fear of making it too heavy.I had tractor over a year without liquid ballast and now it's filled. I found that having extra ballast is great in those wet areas as it helps to plant the tractor more squarely to drive thru the wet stuff when mowing- less damage IMHO. I mow mostly on clay soils. I am sure you will get very tired of swapping wheel weights between seasons and when you do need the ballast but you dont-- what are you gonna do?

You wouldn't catch me without liquid ballast on my BX as I am a firm believer.
I learned that NOT mowing it often is best cure in wet area. I just drive around wet areas and when drier months comes, the BX has plenty of power to mow those areas down.

 

[Gods Country]

I may consider 50% Rimguard at the 50hr service, I know that this may sound strange but I know for a fact that 375 or so lbs in the particular 1/4 acre of my property is the difference between light tracks and ruts.

You're probably only adding about 100# per tire. Around 10 gallons of ballast/tire.

 

[TripleR]

I also have a damp back yard and therefore did not load the tires or put wheel weights on my BX2200 and used it for years. When I sold my 2200 to get the 2660, I decided to add wheel weight as the cost was about the same as fluid and flats easier to repair. I also reasoned I could more easily pull the weights off if I didn't like the added weight.

I have yet to pull the weights and the added weight helps stability without any additional damage to my yard over the unweighted 2200.

 

[jb62901]

I bought this BB for $25 couldn't walk away form it for that amount. Fill it with 15-25 lb rocks, able to add of subtact in a few min. I know it wasn't always orange.

 

[Tom_H]

I learned that NOT mowing it often is best cure in wet area. I just drive around wet areas and when drier months comes, the BX has plenty of power to mow those areas down.

Same here. If I drive through those places when saturated, it does to the soil what an extruder does to pasta. If I am patient and wait until it dries, the BX cuts it right down regardless of how tall it's grown.

 

[Tom_H]

I have loaded tires on my BX1860 and would not have it any other way. A ripper across those wet areas, then level and reseed the grass would improve the drainage. Anothe possiblity is a french drain or modified French drain to carry the excess water away.
We have WONDERFUL RED CLAY in our area, and if it dont drain, it turns to a pit full of mud.

Mud used to be so much fun to play in as a kid! :cool2: (Sorry Mom.) I guess you know you're not a kid any more when mud goes from fun to nuisance!

I do have French Drains along the house foundation, along with long downspout runs. Had to do that after we developed a pond in the crawlspace! Some of the lawn is contoured. Some is flat and even though I have installed drains in it, it still has spots that I just have to avoid until we set into dry season. Oh well, I still love my BX. First cut of the year on my old MTD garden tractor would take 5 hours, endlessly clogging the deck. The BX just plows right through in 45 min.

 

[fish6942]

If the OP is still set on a ballast box, Kubota offers one for a farily reasonable price that'll fit the BX. I got one with the purchase of my BX. It's compact, fits the 3PH just right and it's the right color.