OP
Iplayfarmer
Super Member
Ain't that the truth.
New (To Me) Drill Press
- Thread starter Iplayfarmer
- Start date
- Views: 40457
Ain't that the truth.
BigSteve63
Bronze Member
Your drill press looks exactly like mine, only different name. Mine is a "Galaxy" brand that I got for free at a former place of employment. It was missing several parts, the most notable of which were the clock spring return and the center pulley for speed adjustments. I tried finding parts everywhere and ordered some from Sears that did not fit. I was able to make a return spring out of a 2 1/2" hole saw and a mower recoil spring - it comes back up with a vengeance now! I also fabbed a mount for the Sears idler pulley I ordered to adjust the speed. Since most of my idler pulley mount was a pure guess, I was wondering if you could take some pics of the pulleys on top - just to let me know how close I got? Thanks!
OP
Iplayfarmer
Super Member
We actually hijacked a thread Rawinok2 has going about his mini dozer to discuss drill press mods. I posted some pictures over there.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/221521-another-mini-dozer-26.html#post2593851
Feel free to post back here if you need more info. I'm happy to help.
varmint
Elite Member
- Joined
- Mar 17, 2003
- Messages
- 2,572
- Location
- Northern Maryland
- Tractor
- Kubota B8200, then a Kubota L3130 HST, now a Kubota L3400 HST
I just came across your drill press thread- your machine looks exactly like one my dad bought from Enco in the 70's, for around $150 or so (Taiwan). I had it for 10 or 15 years, and sold it when I got an opportunity to get a big new floor model for about half normal price. The new one has more speeds, longer spindle travel, and tighter "slop" when the spindle is down, but let me tell you, that old machine had torque when it came to drilling serious holes. You should get lots of use from it, and congrats on that bonus chuck!
OP
Iplayfarmer
Super Member
I switched belts, and I'm getting a lot better torque to the bit. I'm guessing that one belt is a little worn. By putting the more worn belt on the primary drive and the better belt on the final drive I'm able to get better power transmission at low speed high torque.
I'm sure that new belts would improve the performance. Maybe I'll get some belts next time I'm in the hardware store with a few extra dollars in my pocket.
I'm sure that new belts would improve the performance. Maybe I'll get some belts next time I'm in the hardware store with a few extra dollars in my pocket.
Renze
Elite Member
My "old" (2001, bought new as old stock in 2007) drill press couldnt pull the hole saw, so i changed to a Gates automotive cogged fan belt. That could transfer so much torque that the motor sometimes stalled and started to skip. Anyways, it is relieved from this punishment now i got the new, floor model drill press. This is my "new" but made in 1986 
OP
Iplayfarmer
Super Member
My "old" (2001, bought new as old stock in 2007) drill press couldnt pull the hole saw, so i changed to a Gates automotive cogged fan belt. That could transfer so much torque that the motor sometimes stalled and started to skip. Anyways, it is relieved from this punishment now i got the new, floor model drill press. This is my "new" but made in 1986
My best guess is that your "new" one is about the same vintage as mine. I'll have to try the cogged belt. There is a certain level of comfort that the belts will slip before the machine self destructs, but I'd like to get a little more torque to the bit before the slipping occurs.
OP
Iplayfarmer
Super Member
New Belts ($20). It's better.
I saw a big improvement previously when I switched the old rear belt to the front. The new belts are even better, but only a little. It's obvious that the critical belt is the secondary drive belt that turns the spindle itself. I bet I could have seen as much improvement by only replacing this secondary drive belt.
At any rate, I think I've found the sweet spot where the drill press has plenty of torque to do what I need, but still will slip a belt rather than self destruct.
On another note, my friend with the morse taper drills came by again yesterday. He said he had found the bucket of drill bits. I just need to drive the 30 miles to his house sometime and pick them up. (He was in a company vehicle and didn't have them with him.) I ought to offer him some money for the bits, but I have no idea what to offer him.
I saw a big improvement previously when I switched the old rear belt to the front. The new belts are even better, but only a little. It's obvious that the critical belt is the secondary drive belt that turns the spindle itself. I bet I could have seen as much improvement by only replacing this secondary drive belt.
At any rate, I think I've found the sweet spot where the drill press has plenty of torque to do what I need, but still will slip a belt rather than self destruct.
On another note, my friend with the morse taper drills came by again yesterday. He said he had found the bucket of drill bits. I just need to drive the 30 miles to his house sometime and pick them up. (He was in a company vehicle and didn't have them with him.) I ought to offer him some money for the bits, but I have no idea what to offer him.
midsetberg
New member
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- Apr 1, 2010
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- ICELAND
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- John Deere 3650, John Deere 445, Massey Ferguson 135, David Brown Selectamatic 880, Ford 3000, Ford 2000
To further expand the usage of your drill press you should get your self a Morse Taper to 3/4" Weldon adapter and go for Annular cutters like they use in magnetic drills - you will never go back drill bits when doing large holes.
Arbors for annular cutters
Annular cutters
Arbors for annular cutters
Annular cutters
Renze
Elite Member
Nice ! For the bigger holes than my 30mm drill, this would be perfect to replace the hole saws i previously used... but whats the price on these ?
