How do you tie down tractors when hauling on a trailer?

[aczlan]

Aczlan, you are absolutely correct. If the trailer were bolted to the ground and a crane were used to lift the tractor, the straps would break at a much lower threshold with the way the straps are attached, however, the trailer isn't bolted down and if the trailer flipped the straps would then effectively be holding the trailer to the tractor. The trailer weight is 3,900 pounds. The straps will most likely hold.
It would be an interesting experiment but one I hope to never actually perform.

I disagree on what the straps would have to hold in an accident, but that is neither here nor there.
If you could tie your tractor down in a more secure fashion, why would you not do so?
Look at a truckload of heavy equipment some time and see how they tie it down. You will see it tied down near the ends with as short of a tiedown as possible at an angle close to 45 degrees up and inwards.


Aaron Z

 

[nunyabinis]

Update: I ordered my trailer today -- a 16' landscape trailer with tandem axles, brakes on both axles, reinforced tailgate, 1' high side rails, and welded tie-down rings along the sides of the frame. They had a 14' model in stock, but it would only have given me about plus/minus 1' of fore/aft adjustment with my tractor, and wouldn't have accommodated my box blade without playing games. So I went to 16' and it should be here in three weeks. It's crazy that the 16' is only $100 more and only marginally heavier -- it brings a lot more capability for very little penalty in cost and weight.

I went with a "Down2Earth" brand trailer, made in Georgia. I had looked at 4-5 different brands, and this one was among the nicest made for the money. Even with all the extras, it was very competitive on price.

Good for you. I think you'll be much happier with the 16 footer. That's why I posted the picture of my rig to show you what you CAN put on one.


Now just make sure you tie your load down better than I do and you'll be A-OK.



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[Iplayfarmer]

Update: I ordered my trailer today -- a 16' landscape trailer with tandem axles, brakes on both axles, reinforced tailgate, 1' high side rails, and welded tie-down rings along the sides of the frame...

That sounds like the perfect balance between cost, weight, useability, and capacity. I think you'll be very happy with your choice.

 

[RobertN]

That's why you check your load during transit. Isn't commercial like after 25 miles, and then a set distance after that?

Except for one trip, I typically only go about 30 miles with my flatbed trailer, wether with the tractor, or other cargo. It is about 3 miles, with a couple stop signs before I get on the main road. I stop and check load then, because by then I have stopped and started a couple times, as well as gone over a couple of bumps in our wonderful rural roads.

When I have made a couple runs to the duck refuge to help with cleanup days, I checked when I got fuel, even though the overall trip was only 90 miles.

Towing my 5th wheel or our Scout Troops trailer, I check before I get on the main highway, and again at every fuel or rest/potty break on the way. Those are just a walk around of the enclosed trailers, look at hitch, safety chains, tires ect.

Granted, something could happen no matter how many times you check.

And, living in California, our roads are awful, so frequent checks are good.

I much preferred our trip to Texas, going thru Az, Nm, and on to South Texas. The roads were sooooooo much nicer thatn in Ca... And they didn't have this 55mph tow limit...

I believe you, and that makes sense. However, I have seen chains come loose on a buddy's rock buggy when an unknown tire leak slowly deflated one tire, allowing just enough slack for the grab hook to fall off, even though things were properly tight at first. The adjacent straps had just enough stretch when taut they stayed attached. Coulda/woulda/shoulda: I think there are multiple good ways to secure a load, and as long as things are safe, there are no bonus points for technique or style.

Having said that, I used 4 3/8" transport chains on my last tractor move, a tiny B6000 Kubota, with ratchet straps besides.

 

[s219]

That sounds like the perfect balance between cost, weight, useability, and capacity. I think you'll be very happy with your choice.

Yeah, it's an overall good compromise. I liked the equipment haulers a lot, but it was slightly overkill for me and a good 500 pounds heavier than the landscape trailer (part of that is due to the need to go 18' with the equipment hauler to get a 16' platform, because of the dovetail). As I was reasoning everything out at the trailer shop, I kept coming back to the landscape trailer as a good jack of all trades solution.

I was close to buying the 14' since it was in stock, but I think long term I would have regretted not getting the 16'. I have a couple weekends of chainsaw prep work before I can really get a bigger tractor on my new property, so it shouldn't be too much of a delay while I wait for the 16'. I may shuttle my smaller Deere yard tractor up there on my 4x8 trailer to tote chainsaws and tools around while I clear paths for my Kubota.

 

[AGGIE00]

A nylon strap under a significant load will cut very easily when it rubs on a metal edge. For that reason I only use chains.

 

[Duffster]

A nylon strap under a significant load will cut very easily when it rubs on a metal edge. For that reason I only use chains.

Can't that be said aboot chain as well?

I know i have cut chain that way.

 

[AGGIE00]

Can't that be said aboot chain as well?

I know i have cut chain that way.

NO. Absolutely not.

 

[Duffster]

NO. Absolutely not.

So I didn't cut that chain under tension on a sharp object?

 

[two_bit_score]

If you believe this is the best you can do, nothing I could/would/want to say, would change anything.

Sometimes the "best you can do" really is only the "best you want to do".

Sounds like the case here.