Runnign 100 amp service to garage

[radioman]

Would you run conduit between the meter socket and breaker box with the #2 individual wires

why not? at least its all covered up and looks more professional? FYI, I'd go with #1 all the way. less voltage drop, less likely to overheat, and it would be rated to close to 125 amps under 100 ft (I think) so if things change down the road, you have a small peace of mind.

 

[jonnysteals]

why not? at least its all covered up and looks more professional? FYI, I'd go with #1 all the way. less voltage drop, less likely to overheat, and it would be rated to close to 125 amps under 100 ft (I think) so if things change down the road, you have a small peace of mind.

Do you think I will be able to do an 180 degree turn within 4-6 inches. The breaker box is located directly above the meter on the same wall. That is my concern that I will not be able to get conduit to turn and mount up the the breaker box. Unless there is a hole directly in the back of the meter socket I believe it will be very hard to pull off that 180 in conduit. Do you know if there is a hole in the back of the meter socket?


I also plan on the copper ground wire in conduit. The grounding rods will be 8 inches below ground. I plan on having one continuous piece of copper to go between the ground buss bar and both grounding rods. The conduit will end 6 inches below ground. I just didn't want any wires exposed on the exterior of the builidng. Guess I am a little paranoid.

 

[whitedogone]

Do you think I will be able to do an 180 degree turn within 4-6 inches. The breaker box is located directly above the meter on the same wall. That is my concern that I will not be able to get conduit to turn and mount up the the breaker box. Unless there is a hole directly in the back of the meter socket I believe it will be very hard to pull off that 180 in conduit. Do you know if there is a hole in the back of the meter socket?
I also plan on the copper ground wire in conduit. The grounding rods will be 8 inches below ground. I plan on having one continuous piece of copper to go between the ground buss bar and both grounding rods. The conduit will end 6 inches below ground. I just didn't want any wires exposed on the exterior of the builidng. Guess I am a little paranoid.

1. Do you have a hole saw? Make your own if there isn't a knockout

2. Use plastic conduit to run your grounding electrode conductor in. If you use metal, you have to use a bond bushing on both ends.

3. Remember to install a intersystem bonding connect to your service equipment.

 

[Illini22]

I have direct bury 4/0 al in my house. It was built in 1978 it has never faulted!! My soil is all pit run (potato rocks). I've also replaced countless transformers because the
Bushing get pulled out when contractors dig thru conduit and the wire in it and EVERYTHING connected to it! Direct bury and conduit both have their advantages. At least we agree on aluminum.

 

[timswi]

It is unusual for you to be putting in the main lines between their overhead and their meter, that would not be allowed in most parts of the country, so most of us are thinking of this as a feed from a meter. You are actually installing the meter wires themselves - rather different. I think even you got a bit sidetracked on the differences of before or after the meter.

I ran the lines (underground) from the utility's overheads and my "telephone" pole...200 feet to the meter...It's allowed and not uncommon at all....The electric supplier only gave 100' for free...After that I was on my own...Including the pole, feed wire and meter box.

 

[rambler]

Nice diagram, makes it clearer.

In my cold climate, you need some sort of slip joint to allow for frost heave in the wire and conduit. Don't know if that's a concern there.

--->Paul

 

[jonnysteals]

1. Do you have a hole saw? Make your own if there isn't a knockout

2. Use plastic conduit to run your grounding electrode conductor in. If you use metal, you have to use a bond bushing on both ends.

3. Remember to install a intersystem bonding connect to your service equipment.

1. I have all the tools but does code allow me to put a hole in the meter box.

2. Yea I plan on not runnign any metal conduit. All plastic

3. I don't have a satelite dish, phone line or cable. I dont believe I need this correct?

I ran the lines (underground) from the utility's overheads and my "telephone" pole...200 feet to the meter...It's allowed and not uncommon at all....The electric supplier only gave 100' for free...After that I was on my own...Including the pole, feed wire and meter box.

Yea here in NJ it appears that nothings free. I dont mind having to pay to go underground because its still cheaper than above ground and I wont have to worry if I might hit the pole when Im hauling my tractor around.

Nice diagram, makes it clearer.

In my cold climate, you need some sort of slip joint to allow for frost heave in the wire and conduit. Don't know if that's a concern there.

--->Paul

I will have to look into that. We do get snow here but I don't think its a requirment. I plan on giving that diagram when i apply for the permit as well. Im a little lerry abount the slip joint because it seems like a likely place for water to enter.


I have to look into this Looks like I need this because I am over 25 feet in length above ground. Looks like I will need one on my telephone/utility pole if it os over 25 feet tall. I dont think it is that all and then I wont need on. Heres a pdf I found on it: http://www.carlon.com/Installa...XPJT.pdf

 

[whitedogone]

I am not aware of any NEC section that would prevent you from making your own "knockout" in the rear of the meter base. But, I can't remember the last time I saw one that didn't have one in it already. Just plan your install so that the meter base and the load center are back to back with the supplied knockouts back to back and use a nipple between them. BTW, I'm not sure which code you're required to follow, but, the 2008 NEC requires the intersystem bonding connect. You can just use a 4 space min. lug machine screwed to the bottom meter base.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Given that you will have a new meter for a separate service you will also have a minimum billing for the meter each month regardless of how much power you use. That is what we have at our place and I hate paying the $30 bill to turn on the lights a few times a month.

MarkV

Same around here. Its $50 I think. Thats why I ran mine off my meter on the side of my house.

It goes from the pole to the meter under ground. Then from the meter it branches of in two directions, one to my pole barns 100 amp panel and one to my homes 200 amp panel.

Chris

 

[Diamondpilot]

My meter is on the side of the house and the 200 amp house breaker box is on the back side of it. They ran the wire from the back side of the meter strait though the wall to the back side of the breaker box. Nice and clean.

As for the 100 amp service in the pole barn they ran a piece of 2" conduit down form the meter to under ground then to the barn. It then comes up the side of the barn in 2" conduit and into the 100 amp panel.

Chris