3 point moves up and down with loader

[familyman]

The only concern I have at the moment is when going out to scrape and grade the private roads in our development (we have to maintain the roads ourselves, dept. of transportation does not do it) with a scrape blade or box blade attached. From another essay in this forum (Beginners guide to using a box blade) I understand that one has to (almost) constantly adjust the BB a little (maybe I misread though). This would give me pause of course as a minor up adjustment is not possible with the 'jerky' 3PH.

Does anyone have any experience with the use of a BB on a so called 'jerky' hitch.
Thank you.

I just spoke to my dealer about working up a price to swap my L2800 for an L3800, so this topic has my attention.

I've done a pretty fair amount of grading and elevation work with a BB. To me, it has been an extremely useful tool for changing the entire complexion of a property, as well as repairing ground after BH work, etc.

As far as left to right angle goes, the BB follows the rear wheels of the tractor; whichever way you have the BB set up with the toplink and leveler, if the rear wheels tilt left or right, so does the BB (with attending results to what you are attempting to grade). The only fix for this situation is a hydraulic tilt cylinder and valve. Adding hydraulic toplink to this gives you top and tilt, or T&T.

As far as adjusting BB elevation, this is all done with the 3pt. lever. As an owner of a JH (Jerky Hitch) I can tell you it's a royal pain. A smooth hitch would remove a lot of the trial and error involved here, but I'll tell you how I do it with the JH:

First, the hitch is capable of going up in small increments if you move the lever a tiny bit at a time. I do this by lightly tapping the lever with my palm as I go along. Yes it jerks, but the movements are small.

Second, instead of raising the box, I attempt to lower the box to where I want it. This requires watching behind you and lowering as you go, just like raising it while tapping. Adjusting the 3pt. valve under the seat will help you with drop speed.

For grading potholes on a gravel drive, if the road crown is ok, just using the toplink to adjust the front and rear BB blades to the same level will let it slide along nicely behind you; the box will pick up some gravel and fill/level the potholes as you go. By having the front and rear blades set level, the rear blade will keep the front blade from cutting deeply. If you have to adjust the crown of the road, it can be done without T&T, but a T&T will make things much faster and easier.

 

[jokergerm]

Oops, that is the Standard valve cost several years ago.

Ok, I just looked up the valve I THINK was used in my tractor (not going to list it since I'm not 100% sure - you have to do your own reading or get your dealer to look up the original "Product Improvement Bulletin" - most of this was posted several years ago.)

And Yes the non-jerky valve is definitely more expensive - $476.42 vs. $474.61

Also, The PIB was only to be used in the original really jerky models.


On a side note: Seven years later - "The jerk that keeps on jerking you around"

So your telling me they are arguing over 2.00 is that a joke
Or did you mis type it

 

[teg]

So your telling me they are arguing over 2.00 is that a joke Or did you mis type it

That's was a joke (a bad one :ashamed remember that's aftermarket parts prices... someone joked about these tractors costing a million dollars if bought part by part... but to be serious here - I don't know that much about manufacturing but I bet the price isn't that far off between the two.

When I was looking up the price for a "new" L2800 valve - there was 4 (give or take, I didn't count) "older" version of this valve. There was only one version of the Grand L that was listed... all that engineering and rework for a valve that still is not "right" all the time (well, it may be how *they* want it to work).

 

[Chilly807]

That's was a joke (a bad one :ashamed remember that's aftermarket parts prices... someone joked about these tractors costing a million dollars if bought part by part... but to be serious here - I don't know that much about manufacturing but I bet the price isn't that far off between the two.

When I was looking up the price for a "new" L2800 valve - there was 4 (give or take, I didn't count) "older" version of this valve. There was only one version of the Grand L that was listed... all that engineering and it's still not "right" (well, it may be how *they* want it to work).

You really DO believe there's a conspiracy here... don't you?? Nothing personal, but I AM laughing about this.

It could be true, but they're trying awfully hard to rectify the problem if that's the case. All the different valve versions are telling me they can't get a handle on this.

Sean

 

[LD1]

You really DO believe there's a conspiracy here... don't you?? Nothing personal, but I AM laughing about this.

It could be true, but they're trying awfully hard to rectify the problem if that's the case. All the different valve versions are telling me they can't get a handle on this.

Sean

Thats my understanding too. And I am not so sure the "grandL" valve will fix the problem if it will even match up.

I havent read EVERY thread regarding this problem, but IS there a valve that bolts in and solves the problem???? Because my understand is NO.

What I have heard refered to in the past as the "grandL" valve was just a newer version. And it was better but still not right. My thinking that Just another valve wont solve the problem is based on the fact that most all of the valves they have tried so far, have worked flawlessly in other models. That right there tells me its not an issue with the valve, rather something else in the system either not plumbed right or not sized right. Valve adjustments make it better to an extent, but isnt the root cause of the problem.

 

[Chilly807]

Thats my understanding too. And I am not so sure the "grandL" valve will fix the problem if it will even match up.

I havent read EVERY thread regarding this problem, but IS there a valve that bolts in and solves the problem???? Because my understand is NO.

What I have heard refered to in the past as the "grandL" valve was just a newer version. And it was better but still not right. My thinking that Just another valve wont solve the problem is based on the fact that most all of the valves they have tried so far, have worked flawlessly in other models. That right there tells me its not an issue with the valve, rather something else in the system either not plumbed right or not sized right. Valve adjustments make it better to an extent, but isnt the root cause of the problem.

That's pretty much what I'm thinking. As far as I know, Teg's is the only tractor here that has a "Grand L" valve, I think it was out of a 3010?

Sean

 

[LD1]

That's pretty much what I'm thinking. As far as I know, Teg's is the only tractor here that has a "Grand L" valve, I think it was out of a 3010?

Sean

I though one of the several valves they have tried listed the 3010 as another model that it was in. I know one of the models also lists the M59. I cant remember all of them now. But its not like the valves they have been using are unique to ONLY the L3400 series. But yet the 3400 series is the ONLY one with issues:confused2:

 

[Chilly807]

The valve listed for the 3010 is 31351-39604 which was fitted to L3400's having a serial number between 61731 and 69853, according to the data I have. There are a whole spate of valves between 69853 and 85831 (mine), but mine is supposed to have # YR908-00104. What's in the L3800's I don't know, but it may be YR908-00105 from what I've heard.

It seems the 31351-39604 valve was put in some to improve performance over the original valve (31391-39002) which was really bad apparently.

Why Kubota discontinued this practice and went with the newer styles is a mystery, unless the cost was a factor or there were other side-effects we don't know about. I think the 31351-39604 valve is what's in Teg's tractor, if I remember correctly.

If I knew for sure and thought it would cure the problem with mine, I'd order one tomorrow and be done with it. My valve had no markings to indicate which one it was, or at least nothing that looked like a YR #.

Sean

 

[LD1]

The valve listed for the 3010 is 31351-39604 which was fitted to L3400's having a serial number between 61731 and 69853, according to the data I have. There are a whole spate of valves between 69853 and 85831 (mine), but mine is supposed to have # YR908-00104. What's in the L3800's I don't know, but it may be YR908-00105 from what I've heard.

It seems the 31351-39604 valve was put in some to improve performance over the original valve (31391-39002) which was really bad apparently.

Why Kubota discontinued this practice and went with the newer styles is a mystery, unless the cost was a factor or there were other side-effects we don't know about. I think the 31351-39604 valve is what's in Teg's tractor, if I remember correctly.

If I knew for sure and thought it would cure the problem with mine, I'd order one tomorrow and be done with it. My valve had no markings to indicate which one it was, or at least nothing that looked like a YR #.

Sean

Mine is older. Serial 60813. I hage the 31391-39002 valve. The original. Accordign to what I see, that SAME valve was also used in the L4400, L3000, L2500, L2600 and had no issues in any of those tractors:confused2:

The 31351-39604 valve was used in the 2500,2600,2900,3000,3300,4300,3010,3410,3710,4310,4610, and the MX5000 with no issues in any of them tractors:confused2:

So getting a 3010 valve I dont think is going to work.

And a modern Grand L valve from a Lxx40 series......well it probabally wont bolt up, but who knows.

With soo many models using the same valve tells me that there isnt a valve that will fix the problem. There is something else going on in the system.

 

[Chilly807]

Mine is older. Serial 60813. I hage the 31391-39002 valve. The original. Accordign to what I see, that SAME valve was also used in the L4400, L3000, L2500, L2600 and had no issues in any of those tractors:confused2:

The 31351-39604 valve was used in the 2500,2600,2900,3000,3300,4300,3010,3410,3710,4310,4610, and the MX5000 with no issues in any of them tractors:confused2:

So getting a 3010 valve I dont think is going to work.

And a modern Grand L valve from a Lxx40 series......well it probabally wont bolt up, but who knows.

With soo many models using the same valve tells me that there isnt a valve that will fix the problem. There is something else going on in the system.

I'd agree with you except that Teg's valve was replaced by a dealer, I think it was from a 3010. If his is smooth, and apparently it IS, then that valve works in the L series.

Why Kubota only installed that valve in a narrow percentage of the L series is beyond me, but they started using different valves afterwards for some unknown reason. I think I'm starting to subscribe to the conspiracy theory... God help me. The truth is out there.. but can we handle it?? :laughing::confused2:

Sean