Looking for input on trailer choices

[meburdick]

I've been looking around for a trailer to haul my JD 2520 on the rare occasion when I need to have it "someplace else". The used market has a lot of options, but it seems that people want an AWFUL lot of money for these things used. I had one go across my screen briefly that seemed a great deal (10k, 18', beavertail, fold-down ramps, light use, a handful of years old, everything in good working order) at $2,500 and it was sold before I could even get to the guy's house.

I'm looking at my options and have started giving serious consideration to buying new (because everyone wants so darn much for their used ones). I'm looking for input on which trailer you might choose if price WASN'T the issue...

Some things common to all: Wooden deck, breakaway system, electric brakes on both axles, and fold-down ramps (except as noted), top-wind jack.

- Big Tex 10cc (The fold down ramps are about a $400 option... Worth it, or are the slide-outs fine?). 10k, 16'

- CAM Superline, 10k, 18'

- Anderson, 10k, 18'

- Maxum, 10k, 18'

- Kaufman, 10k, 16'

- Carry All, 7k, 16'

- Quality, D18, 18', 8k

The last two are used, the rest are new. I'm interested in WHY you would choose one over another. I get the whole thing with brand loyalty and loving what you own, but tell me what it is about yours that you value it for.

Thanks in advance!

 

[case245]

I've been looking around for a trailer to haul my JD 2520 on the rare occasion when I need to have it "someplace else". The used market has a lot of options, but it seems that people want an AWFUL lot of money for these things used. I had one go across my screen briefly that seemed a great deal (10k, 18', beavertail, fold-down ramps, light use, a handful of years old, everything in good working order) at $2,500 and it was sold before I could even get to the guy's house.

I'm looking at my options and have started giving serious consideration to buying new (because everyone wants so darn much for their used ones). I'm looking for input on which trailer you might choose if price WASN'T the issue...

Some things common to all: Wooden deck, breakaway system, electric brakes on both axles, and fold-down ramps (except as noted), top-wind jack.

- Big Tex 10cc (The fold down ramps are about a $400 option... Worth it, or are the slide-outs fine?). 10k, 16'

- CAM Superline, 10k, 18'

- Anderson, 10k, 18'

- Maxum, 10k, 18'

- Kaufman, 10k, 16'

- Carry All, 7k, 16'

- Quality, D18, 18', 8k

The last two are used, the rest are new. I'm interested in WHY you would choose one over another. I get the whole thing with brand loyalty and loving what you own, but tell me what it is about yours that you value it for.

Thanks in advance!

i to was looking at used a few months ago i end up choiceing cam super lines maxum 10k 20 foot i went with that because of the it was made and the finish of it its was 500 more then the appleatchain trailer THE TRAILER HAS A 1 YEAR WARRENTY i hUALed my L3800 AND A FEW OTHER THINGS IT DID FINE OH MY OLD TRAILER HAD NO BRAKES WAS PULLED WITH A 3/4 TON THAT ONE REASON I BOUGHT ANOTHER ITS NOT WORTH GETTING IN ALL THE D.OT. HOT WATER NOW I HAVE A 1 TON SRW

 

[Diamondpilot]

Personally I would not want a Beaver Tail, Dove Tail. I like a flat deck for a flat surface and less chance of ground clearance issues. I also prefer slide in ramps versus stand up. You can let things a few feet longer hang over like a bush hog tail wheel. I am on my 3rd trailer and this has been my experience.

Other than that look at wiring, paint, and spring for led lights.

Chris

 

[meburdick]

i to was looking at used a few months ago i end up choiceing cam super lines maxum 10k 20 foot i went with that because of the it was made and the finish of it its was 500 more then the appleatchain trailer THE TRAILER HAS A 1 YEAR WARRENTY i hUALed my L3800 AND A FEW OTHER THINGS IT DID FINE OH MY OLD TRAILER HAD NO BRAKES WAS PULLED WITH A 3/4 TON THAT ONE REASON I BOUGHT ANOTHER ITS NOT WORTH GETTING IN ALL THE D.OT. HOT WATER NOW I HAVE A 1 TON SRW

I hadn't realized, until seeing this post, that Maxum is a division of CAM. From what I can surmise, the Maxum trailers are the more "Economy" class of trailers by being built to a spec with few options (so they can be mass produced). They appear to be heavy duty but without the possible upgrade choices you get from a CAM.

The CAM is about $1,000 more than the Maxum for 18' trailers, but it has the pallet fork rack, a chain basket with locking cover, and is a 18' flat deck (the Maxum is 18' with a 3' beavertail).

Let's bring cost into this (relative numbers):

The Maxum and Anderson are available to me at the same price. The Maxum is 18' with a 3' beavertail while the Anderson is a flat deck.

The CAM is plus $1,000 (has the chain basket with locking cover, full 18' flat deck, and fork lift rack).

The Big Tex is plus $600 and has a full 18' flat deck.

The Kaufman might be minus $200 or so, but requires a 1-5 week wait while it's manufactured and shipped. And, I would need to find a lumber yard or similar place with equipment big enough to raise a 2400 lb trailer off of the delivery truck.

The Carry All (might actually be Carry On) and the Quality are both used and roughly $2500 less. The Carry All is a 16', 7k trailer and everything else is 10k.

 

[meburdick]

Personally I would not want a Beaver Tail, Dove Tail. I like a flat deck for a flat surface and less chance of ground clearance issues. I also prefer slide in ramps versus stand up. You can let things a few feet longer hang over like a bush hog tail wheel. I am on my 3rd trailer and this has been my experience.

Other than that look at wiring, paint, and spring for led lights.

Chris

Thanks. I believe all of the new trailers have LED lights. I can't comment on the used ones. The problem I have with slide in ramps (aside from having to muscle them around to use them) is that they do not bring any level of "support" when loading. By that, I mean that the trailer may well dip in the rear and put undue stress on the suspension of my truck when loading / unloading. I understand your comment about when things need to extend past the gate, but that's part of the reason I'm looking at 18' in the first place...

The CAM uses PPG paint, and I believe the Maxum uses that as well (their site doesn't specifically say it, but I believe that there are stickers on the trailer). The others are simply "auto grade polyurethane" paints.

One thing I didn't care much for with the Big Tex is that all of the trailers on the dealer's lot had some sort of rust already showing somewhere on the trailer. That's either poor workmanship or lack of caring in either transit or on the lot. Either way, if I want a trailer that "includes rust", I'll go to one of the box stores. You can bet that, if I'm putting out that kind of money, I expect a perfect paint job.

 

[KennyG]

For occasional use with a 2520, a 16 foot 7K trailer with brakes on one axle is enough. That will save you some money and it will be lighter to tow than a 10K trailer.

As has been discussed in other threads, don't depend on the ramps to support the trailer when loading, just use a couple of jack stands. I've got an old 16 ft 7k landscape trailer that I bought for $850, spent a couple of hundred beefing up the tail gate/ramp and adding lift assists and it does fine for local hauling. I leave a pair of jackstands on the trailer and now I don't have to search all over the pole barn to find them.

 

[meburdick]

For occasional use with a 2520, a 16 foot 7K trailer with brakes on one axle is enough. That will save you some money and it will be lighter to tow than a 10K trailer.

As has been discussed in other threads, don't depend on the ramps to support the trailer when loading, just use a couple of jack stands. I've got an old 16 ft 7k landscape trailer that I bought for $850, spent a couple of hundred beefing up the tail gate/ramp and adding lift assists and it does fine for local hauling. I leave a pair of jackstands on the trailer and now I don't have to search all over the pole barn to find them.

I've thought about a lot of those same items, and here's how / why I've ended up where I am.

CT law requires brakes "on all wheels", so I need dual axle brakes.

While jack stands, timbers, or drop-down supports on the trailer will all help with stabilizing, I'd much prefer having the fold-down ramps because they are also unable to tip side-to-side. And, given that loading / unloading may well not be on flat asphalt all of the time, that could be important to me.

A used 7k trailer around here, now, STARTS at $1500. New ones are the same prices as a 10k. The difference is trailer weight is about 800lbs, which to my Tundra is negligible. I also don't have the time or possibly the tools to do some of the resto work or repairs that would be necessary (I don't own a welder, nor do I know how to weld - so repairs or increasing strength is impossible without hiring someone to do it for me).

 

[meburdick]

Update / Correction...

The Anderson is a 2' Beavertail and not a full flat deck. Also, the CAM is a 16' deck, but is flat (no beavertail).

 

[Diamondpilot]

Thanks. I believe all of the new trailers have LED lights. I can't comment on the used ones. The problem I have with slide in ramps (aside from having to muscle them around to use them) is that they do not bring any level of "support" when loading. By that, I mean that the trailer may well dip in the rear and put undue stress on the suspension of my truck when loading / unloading. I understand your comment about when things need to extend past the gate, but that's part of the reason I'm looking at 18' in the first place...

My ramps can be brought out or stored in under 1 minute easy. More like 30 seconds. Being a flat bed trailer they slide in right from the rear so there is no heavy lifting. My 7 year old has helped me take them in and out.

As for the rear of the trailer dipping I have loaded 30 or more different cars, trucks, SUV's, and tractors with no issues. If this is enough to damage your truck you need a different brand of truck. I do use a single jack stand for the heavier loads.

Like I said I am on my 3rd trailer. I had a 7,000# GVWR 16' flat deck landscape trailer first. Then I had a 25+5 25,000#GVWR GN. My current trailer is my most useful and handy one. Its all flat 18' Car Hauler with a wood deck, 5' pull out ramps, and 7,000# max GVWR.

Chris

 

[s219]

Used trailers are tough. The good ones are nearly as expensive as new. The lousy ones are usually in bad shape, and you may need to repair wiring, replace tires, etc. I bought new after spending a few weeks looking around at the used stuff.

I think you're jumping the gun looking at brands already. Think about the implements you carry, the length of the tractor and/or implements, the tow and tongue weight capacity of the vehicle, the type of rear ramps/gate that would serve you best, etc, and use that to guide you to a trailer type. Then start shopping local dealers to see what they have.

Myself, I did not like the dovetail since it effectively wasted about 2 foot of length for my needs, which is a good chunk of extra weight to be carrying around. For my Kubota B2920, I found that deck length was the most important factor, and I needed a 16' deck in order to have enough room to load the tractor and implements and keep a few feet of space for balancing the load. The weight capacity was a lesser factor for that tractor and my implements, since the 7000# gross of my trailer is more than enough for me.

In the end I got a 7x16 landscape trailer with reinforced gate and side tie-downs. It was a lot lighter than the 7x18 dovetail equipment trailer that was my alternate choice, and I wanted to maximize payload for my tow vehicle's capacity. So a lighter trailer was a bonus.

Your needs may be different, but your tractor is a similar size to mine and so I'd be looking into the 16-18 foot range, pending the types of implements you have. Go longer if you get a dovetail unit.

 

[Gary Fowler]

I just bought a TIGER brand 20 foot (18' flat and 2 foot dove tail -2900 pounds net weight) with 10K axles and both with brakes, heavy duty center jack stand with spring loaded retracting center and rear hideaway 5 foot ramps ($3150 Houston Texas) and I have no issues with it dragging as it is a bit higher than the 3500# trailers. I drove it in and out of my BILs driveway and it is really steep on a hill and not even close to dragging. I actually loaded my Yanmar 4220 with FEL and bushhog on to the trailer without using the ramps at all and not hooked to the truck by just chocking the wheels on the trailer and driving it on the trailer, I then chained it down before I hooked it to the truck. I did have to move it a bit to the rear after hooking to the truck due to excess tongue weight but this was my first and last time to load it as I was delivering it to its new owner. This seemed to be the easiest way to load a tractor with FEL, just drive up, drop the FEL and raise up the front wheels to drive on. The trailer then tilts up so the rear wheels just stepped right up on the bed. Once you know where to position on the trailer, this would be easiest of all for loading.
I loaded the B26 TLB (4000+ pounds )while hooked to the truck using the ramps on flat concrete driveway. It did raise the truck up a bit and the backhoe scraped the concrete a bit but it worked fine. THe 20 foot was all used up in balancing the load and actually had about a foot of the tailwheel hanging off. I might could have loaded it on backward and put the bushhog against the front rail but with the 20 foot, I just backed it back a couple of feet . I think an 18 foot trailer would be a little short for hauling a tractor with bushhog by not allowing for positioning the load a bit.

 

[meburdick]

Used trailers are tough. The good ones are nearly as expensive as new. The lousy ones are usually in bad shape, and you may need to repair wiring, replace tires, etc. I bought new after spending a few weeks looking around at the used stuff.

I think you're jumping the gun looking at brands already. Think about the implements you carry, the length of the tractor and/or implements, the tow and tongue weight capacity of the vehicle, the type of rear ramps/gate that would serve you best, etc, and use that to guide you to a trailer type. Then start shopping local dealers to see what they have.

Myself, I did not like the dovetail since it effectively wasted about 2 foot of length for my needs, which is a good chunk of extra weight to be carrying around. For my Kubota B2920, I found that deck length was the most important factor, and I needed a 16' deck in order to have enough room to load the tractor and implements and keep a few feet of space for balancing the load. The weight capacity was a lesser factor for that tractor and my implements, since the 7000# gross of my trailer is more than enough for me.

In the end I got a 7x16 landscape trailer with reinforced gate and side tie-downs. It was a lot lighter than the 7x18 dovetail equipment trailer that was my alternate choice, and I wanted to maximize payload for my tow vehicle's capacity. So a lighter trailer was a bonus.

Your needs may be different, but your tractor is a similar size to mine and so I'd be looking into the 16-18 foot range, pending the types of implements you have. Go longer if you get a dovetail unit.

I'm done looking at used. Anything that doesn't require an overhaul (grease bearing, new brakes, sanding and touchup, rewiring, etc) is, like you mentioned, very close to the cost of new. I bought the Anderson trailer today and will pick it up on Friday.

I have already considered what it is that I will carry, and potentially how. I would have loved to have the CAM Superline with the Forklift Rack, but simply couldn't justify the extra $1000 to get it. I will, instead, fashion a carrying "frame" for the forks to set them sideways on the deck and lash them down. I will then transport the tractor with the bucket attached, resting on top of the fork carrier.

I had serious trepidation about having the beaver tail on the trailer. But, in the end, it doesn't matter for my use. The tail is 2' long, and the centering point half way between the axles is 82" from the rear. Accounting for the size of the tires, this puts the rear axle at about 64"-70" from the rear. Let's call it 5.5 feet. The distance from the center of my tractor's rear axle to the rear of the ballast box is about 4'. No problem there. The front edge of the box will actually rest on the flat part of the deck and that will bear the weight of it because I'll actually pull the rear tires of the tractor a little forward of the rear axle.

I wasn't looking at brands to make a choice on which brand I wanted to go look for options. I had evaluated which trailers seemed like they had options to suit my needs and was looking at the different brands to see who would do the best job of the contenders.

Now, I just need to decide if I want to go the pintle hitch route or a 2-5/16 ball. I've been leaning toward the ball mount style up until tonight. A sincere lack of quality ball mounts that can handle a 10k trailer is making me think I will be better off with the pintle hitch. I am amazed at just how many mounts are rated for nothing more than 6k Gross Trailer Weight.

What's more, I'm having a tough time deciding on what hitch pin / clevis pin to use to support that trailer weight.

 

[meburdick]

I just bought a TIGER brand 20 foot (18' flat and 2 foot dove tail -2900 pounds net weight) with 10K axles and both with brakes, heavy duty center jack stand with spring loaded retracting center and rear hideaway 5 foot ramps ($3150 Houston Texas) and I have no issues with it dragging as it is a bit higher than the 3500# trailers. I drove it in and out of my BILs driveway and it is really steep on a hill and not even close to dragging. I actually loaded my Yanmar 4220 with FEL and bushhog on to the trailer without using the ramps at all and not hooked to the truck by just chocking the wheels on the trailer and driving it on the trailer, I then chained it down before I hooked it to the truck. I did have to move it a bit to the rear after hooking to the truck due to excess tongue weight but this was my first and last time to load it as I was delivering it to its new owner. This seemed to be the easiest way to load a tractor with FEL, just drive up, drop the FEL and raise up the front wheels to drive on. The trailer then tilts up so the rear wheels just stepped right up on the bed. Once you know where to position on the trailer, this would be easiest of all for loading.
I loaded the B26 TLB (4000+ pounds )while hooked to the truck using the ramps on flat concrete driveway. It did raise the truck up a bit and the backhoe scraped the concrete a bit but it worked fine. THe 20 foot was all used up in balancing the load and actually had about a foot of the tailwheel hanging off. I might could have loaded it on backward and put the bushhog against the front rail but with the 20 foot, I just backed it back a couple of feet . I think an 18 foot trailer would be a little short for hauling a tractor with bushhog by not allowing for positioning the load a bit.

Sounds like a nice trailer. When you add the $600 it would take to ship it CT, it's in a similar range to what I ended up buying (although mine is not a tilt). The tilt option seems like it's a nice one, but it's one more serviceable / wearable part.

I don't (and won't) have a bushhog type attachment, so I should be in good shape for hauling this thing around on what I bought. Even if I add the backhoe, I'm still in good shape to transport it.

 

[Diamondpilot]

There are good ball mounts out there. Go to a camper store or marina. The stuff at TSC and Wal Mart for the most part is junk. I have a couple that are rated for 15,000# in 2 5/16" and one rated for 25,000#

Chris

 

[mjonesnh]

I use a 7x16 landscape trailer to haul my TC34DA New holland, About 4000lbs.with loader attached. Seems to do the job just fine. Electric brakes on both axles, rear gate made from 2x2 square tubing instead of angle iron, same tubing used for top rail, treated 2x8 decking. Several thousand miles on it, no issues except those dog gone Chinese tires.

 

[jeffsw6]

I've been leaning toward the ball mount style up until tonight. A sincere lack of quality ball mounts that can handle a 10k trailer is making me think I will be better off with the pintle hitch. I am amazed at just how many mounts are rated for nothing more than 6k Gross Trailer Weight.

Go to etrailer.com and use their site to find a ball mount. I have a Curt D900 that is rated for 15K on the 2 5/16" ball, that cost over $100 but it is very flexible, and a straight mount (no drop/rise) rated for 10K that I bought at AutoZone for about $50.

And, I would need to find a lumber yard or similar place with equipment big enough to raise a 2400 lb trailer off of the delivery truck.

You could also use a roll-back tow truck. This is not the easiest way to unload a large item from a flat bed but you get the idea -- back the roll-back up to the flat bed, winch the trailer over onto the rollback, then drive it a few feet and unload it using the winch.

 

[joshuabardwell]

Looking at your options, I just want to say, I have a 16' trailer, and it will easily hold the tractor with the loader installed. But if I have a bushhog on the end, I have to do some fancy dancing to get it to fit. The loader is pressed right up against the ramp and the bushhog hangs over the back of the trailer and rests on blocks (to keep it from messing up the paint). There is enough room between the hog and the truck that it's not an issue, but if I was doing it all over again today, I would seriously consider an 18' instead of a 16'. Take a look at how long your tractor is with an implement on the back and the loader on the front, and think hard about how long a trailer you need.

 

[meburdick]

Looking at your options, I just want to say, I have a 16' trailer, and it will easily hold the tractor with the loader installed. But if I have a bushhog on the end, I have to do some fancy dancing to get it to fit. The loader is pressed right up against the ramp and the bushhog hangs over the back of the trailer and rests on blocks (to keep it from messing up the paint). There is enough room between the hog and the truck that it's not an issue, but if I was doing it all over again today, I would seriously consider an 18' instead of a 16'. Take a look at how long your tractor is with an implement on the back and the loader on the front, and think hard about how long a trailer you need.

That's exactly what I did, and why I opted for the 16' flat + 2' beaver tail Anderson. My tractor is 15' tip to tail with the loader and forks on front and ballast box on the back. I have no other rear implements, and will almost certainly never have one.

I will be designing / building a "frame" of sorts so that I can set them on the deck sideways, off of the loader. That shortens the machine by over 3.5' if I don't install the bucket in their place.

 

[gumshu]

Personally I would not want a Beaver Tail, Dove Tail. I like a flat deck for a flat surface and less chance of ground clearance issues. I also prefer slide in ramps versus stand up. You can let things a few feet longer hang over like a bush hog tail wheel. I am on my 3rd trailer and this has been my experience.

Other than that look at wiring, paint, and spring for led lights.

Chris

You nailed it! I bought a dovetail 18' footer with the fold up ramps. I wish I had purchased the 20' flat deck with slide in ramps. The fold up ramps just get in the way.

 

[Diamondpilot]

You nailed it! I bought a dovetail 18' footer with the fold up ramps. I wish I had purchased the 20' flat deck with slide in ramps. The fold up ramps just get in the way.

Yep, we live and learn.

Chris