Rear Blade Rear Blade for JD 5303

[LD1]

IMO This vvvv is stronger.....and just as easy to do.....

 

[deere5105]

IF you are interested in hearing how I would do the re-enforcement, here goes...

<img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=284636"/>

this supports the blade itself. This is the strongback. Dont have to be super heavy duty. Its the added depth that gives strength. 1/8" plate would be sufficient. Or could use a piece of 5" channel iron or something and then cut the triangles for top and bottom.

This is how I would strengthen the A-frame:

<img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=284637"/>

Box in the underside of the horizontal. This will increase the strength in the horizontal (pulling direction) significantly. And also prevent bees.
The gussets will help prevent bending in the vertical direction like it has already been bent.

This is what I would do if the blade were mine. Materials to be used and design of it would all be dependent on what I have in the scrap pile. But even if you had to buy new steel, AND have it cut/sheared to your dimensions (triangles and such) I dont see it being more than $100 worth. And this would significantly strengthen the blade. The only last weak link would be the pivot pin diameter, and the category 1 hitch set-up. But I dont think any of that would be a big issue.

Also, if it has not been done, one other thing I would do...that triangular box u-shape piece where the TL hooks up....that entire vertical section, if it isnt welded solid to the main beam...I would do so.

Again, this is just what I would do if it were mine. It would take maybe half a day at most with just a set of torches and a welder and digging through the scrap pile. But YMMV as always.

There more I look at these pictures the more I like these suggestions. Seem to be fairly simple steps to build and simple strengthening logic.
If boxing in the bottom of the horizontal piece where the lift pins are, how do I get back to the lift pin nut to replace the pins if they need replacing? (Believe it was Jenkins that warned, but I did wind up bending one on my 8' 3PT disc harrow. Went with Cat 1 pins to be able to swap to another tractor if needed.)

The cutting edge is worn, unevenly. It is welded on versus bolted. Think I would rather replace and bolt on to make it easier to rotate or replace in future. Any warnings or suggestions on that?

 

[LD1]

I guess you could leave an access hole to get to the nut. Usually, when something like that is boxed in, the heavy plate on the end that the pin is bolted to is either threaded or has a nut welded on the back so it isnt an issue.

As to the cutting edge, if you could, it would be best to remove the old. And then if you want to bolt on a new one, drill the holes and do so. But I would NOT try to mount over the existing cutting edge. They are pretty hard and make for sme tough drilling. You would most likely spend less time with a grinder and slicer disk and take off the old edge.

 

[94BULLITT]

IMO This vvvv is stronger.....and just as easy to do.....

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It would be harder to make but you could use a wide piece of channel.

 

[deere5105]

I guess you could leave an access hole to get to the nut. Usually, when something like that is boxed in, the heavy plate on the end that the pin is bolted to is either threaded or has a nut welded on the back so it isnt an issue.

As to the cutting edge, if you could, it would be best to remove the old. And then if you want to bolt on a new one, drill the holes and do so. But I would NOT try to mount over the existing cutting edge. They are pretty hard and make for sme tough drilling. You would most likely spend less time with a grinder and slicer disk and take off the old edge.

Guess the concern is that the Cat 1 pins would be a weak link, but cheap and easy to replace. The welded nut would be an option. I was thinking of having room to get to the nut to be able to position the pin holes vertical and then tighten.

The guy that does my welding builds the bionic blades and uses some used road grader blades for the cutting edges. Was thinking along the lines of removing existing cutting edge and replacing with one of those if available. By bolting it on, if wear starting to show could unbolt and flip for new edge.

 

[jenkinsph]

I would remove the old blade and bolt on the replacement as you mention.

I looked thru my scrap pile and found two lengths of box tubing one was 3x6x1/4" rectangular box tubing and the other was 4x6x1/4" after looking at this it appears that a 3' length of the 4x6 box tubing will make two tapered pieces that are 32" in length, just a little torch work. I am having trouble with my camera but will work on this and post pictures over the next few days. This does eliminate the chance of moving the blade off center but I have been leary of this being a good idea anyway. That is why I thought of making it offset while I am at it.

Looking at copying the Landpride method with the tapered braces. Thanks for the pictures LD1

 

[deere5105]

I would remove the old blade and bolt on the replacement as you mention.

I looked thru my scrap pile and found two lengths of box tubing one was 3x6x1/4" rectangular box tubing and the other was 4x6x1/4" after looking at this it appears that a 3' length of the 4x6 box tubing will make two tapered pieces that are 32" in length, just a little torch work. I am having trouble with my camera but will work on this and post pictures over the next few days. This does eliminate the chance of moving the blade off center but I have been leary of this being a good idea anyway. That is why I thought of making it offset while I am at it.

Looking at copying the Landpride method with the tapered braces. Thanks for the pictures LD1

Will be curious to see how your project progresses and how satisfied you are when finished. I assume with the box tubing you would only have to cut the one angle that fits against the moldboard and then a short rectangular piece to close the taller open end and your done. By adding this, I believe you mentioned it eliminates the ability to offset the blade?? I too would be a little concerned over putting the extra stress on the moldboard. Can/will you photograph your steps as you go?

 

[jenkinsph]

deere 5105,
I plan on pictures if I can get the camera to work. I will add the stongbacks to the moldboard first, that is pretty much figured out. I am more concerned now with making the main beam offset working on that issue right now.

 

[deere5105]

Got it hooked up and made a few passes along the drive. Really like being able to grab rocks on the edge and roll them back away from the grass to the center of drive. Was able to tilt by adjusting 3pt hitch while angled. First time ever using this type blade.

I do believe the bottom has been pulled back some, but didn't seem to cause any negative, noticeable issues. What am I missing? What issues will occur because of this?

 

[94BULLITT]

Got it hooked up and made a few passes along the drive. Really like being able to grab rocks on the edge and roll them back away from the grass to the center of drive. Was able to tilt by adjusting 3pt hitch while angled. First time ever using this type blade.

I do believe the bottom has been pulled back some, but didn't seem to cause any negative, noticeable issues. What am I missing? What issues will occur because of this?

<img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=284783"/>

<img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=284784"/>

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It looks like to me the top edge is tweaked foward on both sides. Since the moldboard has been bent it is probably weaker than what it would normally be.

 

[LD1]

It wont cause any issues as-is, but has obviously been used with too much tractor in the past. And unless you want it to keep bending even more and to the point of being un-usable or broken, then re-enforce it before it gets any worse.

Kinda think of it in terms of say...a ratchet. you know..the worn out kind when trying to break something really tight and it slips every once in awhile, but works just fine on lighter loads. Well, thats kinda like your blade. Sure it will be fine, it it certainly isnt going to get any better. And the more times you use it hard, the worse its gonna get until you break something (like knuckles with the ratchet analogy).

 

[jenkinsph]

Here's what I came up with so far, split a piece of 4x6 x 1/4" rectangular tubing and fitted to the blade. Tell me what you think before I clean them up and weld in place.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Steve, those braces will help a lot. But you know that it is just a temporary thing before you get the LP RBT3584.

 

[deere5105]

Here's what I came up with so far, split a piece of 4x6 x 1/4" rectangular tubing and fitted to the blade. Tell me what you think before I clean them up and weld in place.

Looks good to me. I assume that it is running from 4" on the point nearest the center to nothing on the outside end. Looks like you got good matching cuts and angles to allow both pieces to align straight across the back. It would drive me nuts to have one end higher than the other and running across at the same distance from top and bottom of the moldboard.

 

[deere5105]

It wont cause any issues as-is, but has obviously been used with too much tractor in the past. And unless you want it to keep bending even more and to the point of being un-usable or broken, then re-enforce it before it gets any worse.

Kinda think of it in terms of say...a ratchet. you know..the worn out kind when trying to break something really tight and it slips every once in awhile, but works just fine on lighter loads. Well, thats kinda like your blade. Sure it will be fine, it it certainly isnt going to get any better. And the more times you use it hard, the worse its gonna get until you break something (like knuckles with the ratchet analogy).

Good analogy. Guess just am curious how much effort should be put into trying to rotate the bottom/cutting edge forward to get it perfectly straight. Seems the moldboard has a "cupping bend" to it anyway and if I try to lay it down and drive on it would cause the moldboard to want to flatten out and become straight. Right now seems to be pulling ok with no noticeable issues.

Jenkinsph & LD1, Is the consensus to brace as is or does it appear to need attention before bracing? The input and advice and effort you guys have put into this is much appreciated and unbelieveable!

 

[MrChris]

I don't personally weld, but do have a gentleman that has done some work for me that is very reasonable. He is a retired fabricator/welder and has a very impressive shop set up at his home. This picture shows a tractor very similar to mine and what appears to be a similar blade. How aggravating is it to have to adjust the the three point hitch to get the tilt? Is there enough range to make it effective? For the records, I do not utilize any hydraulic tilts or links. If I could get it for $200 seems tempting.

<img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=284468"/>

If you look at the ends of this blade in the picture you will see vertical supports on each side on the back of the blade. These are simple but very effective in reducing the twisting forces put on the blade from the scraping forces that are strongest at the ends of the blade while grading.

 

[jenkinsph]

Looks good to me. I assume that it is running from 4" on the point nearest the center to nothing on the outside end. Looks like you got good matching cuts and angles to allow both pieces to align straight across the back. It would drive me nuts to have one end higher than the other and running across at the same distance from top and bottom of the moldboard.

Actually it tapers down to 1" at the out side ends, this is needed because the moldboard is curved. I had a few more pics to post up but the two pics you see took aver 15 minutes to load. Hope they get this site fixed soon.

 

[LD1]

Here's what I came up with so far, split a piece of 4x6 x 1/4" rectangular tubing and fitted to the blade. Tell me what you think before I clean them up and weld in place.

I like it.

Deere5105: personally, I would brace as is.

 

[jenkinsph]

LD1,

About the A frame I was trying to figure out how this was bent in the first place since most all tractors have no downward pressure? The front rolled pieces the hitch pins are fastened to are at least 3/8 or 7/16 thick so pretty stout. Only thing I have come up with is maybe they tried to pull up a lighterd pine stump with the opposite blade edge. A 4010 had good 3pt hydraulics and could put the hurt on it but if properly used I don't think he will have problems with it. I do think if it was straightened out I would add a piece of 3/8" flatbar to the bottom from side to side leaving only enough room to get to the hitch pin nuts. I never liked welding the nuts in place because if the pin breaks off it is a pita to back the bolt stud out. Don't see the need for the large gusset plates since the top link is free to move from side to side, am I missing your intent?

deere 5105,

About driving over the moldboard, I would lay it down an flat concrete and drive something over it heavy enough to force the blade straight then add a rib on the top and bottom edges welding in place. Afterwards I would let it cool some and the back off of it. I have done this with large pipe (casing) and used a cherry picker for weight but a front tractor wheel or heavy pickup should work for this. Start with a light vehicle and progress upwards in weight if needed. A press would work if your welder has one large enough. I don't think your welder will have any problem straightening out the front hitch and bracing it up.

Those strong back box tubing sections were centered behind the heavy plate that bends inward on the back. I intend to weld the center section in place before I add on the reinforcement tubing too.

I will likely convert it to hydraulic angle and offset next.

 

[jenkinsph]

Steve, those braces will help a lot. But you know that it is just a temporary thing before you get the LP RBT3584.

Love to have a 3584 but I don't need it as bad as I need some other things such as a good core aerator, Harley rake, and a new 2720. You can tell by my pictures that the 1998 rear blade hasn't seen much use. Now if the economy improves then I might get one sooner than later.