Scraper blade or box blade?

[sdkubota]

So what do you do when the ground is so hard that your rear blade WILL NOT dig in at all? :confused3:

I use a subsoiler to rip up hard dirt before the FEL to remove it. Neither a box blade or scraper are very good at moving hard in-place dirt. They are both made for moving loose material. I know box blades have ripper teeth...

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I use a subsoiler to rip up hard dirt before the FEL to remove it. Neither a box blade or scraper are very good at moving hard in-place dirt. They are both made for moving loose material. I know box blades have ripper teeth...

So the answer is that you do not move hard dirt with your rear blade. But if you had a box blade with rippers, then it could be done that way without having a second implement.

 

[sdkubota]

So the answer is that you do not move hard dirt with your rear blade. But if you had a box blade with rippers, then it could be done that way without having a second implement.

Not really, you are never going to "move" much dirt with any rear blade. Same thing goes for a large road grader. They are built for leveling loose dirt. Loaders are made for moving dirt or better yet dump trucks. I don't base this on just my uneducated opinion but 15+ years operating heavy equipment and moving dirt for a living. Yes it can be done (rear blade) but it is extremely inefficient.

 

[jenkinsph]

Not really, you are never going to "move" much dirt with any rear blade. Same thing goes for a large road grader. They are built for leveling loose dirt. Loaders are made for moving dirt or better yet dump trucks. I don't base this on just my uneducated opinion but 15+ years operating heavy equipment and moving dirt for a living. Yes it can be done (rear blade) but it is extremely inefficient.

Are you looking for recognition?

The OP was interested in an implement for a useful counterweight for his 50 hp tractor, do you have any useful information that would help him?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Not really, you are never going to "move" much dirt with any rear blade. Same thing goes for a large road grader. They are built for leveling loose dirt. Loaders are made for moving dirt or better yet dump trucks. I don't base this on just my uneducated opinion but 15+ years operating heavy equipment and moving dirt for a living. Yes it can be done (rear blade) but it is extremely inefficient.

I think that you may think that no one else has any experience, and I said a box blade not a rear blade. You are the one bringing up the rear blade. Believe it or not, some of us do know the difference between a contained load (box blade transporting dirt) and a live rolling load. (rear blade moving dirt sideways) We are waaaaaay off track here and should get back to trying to help out the OP.

 

[Redbug]

Hey Brian...I'm not sure if you guys mentioned it, but what about a utility grader instead? I know you have a big one that you made and mentioned that it does a really good job maintaining your road. I don't have one yet, but have thought about it. I know they will not grab dirt and move it like a box blade, but with the two angled blades they are pretty efficient, no?

One like this:
Utility grader Utility Grader blade [4, 5, 6, and 7 foot] : Leinbach Machinery, Implements and attachments for agriculture and landscaping

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Very efficient. IMO the BEST implement that there is for MAINTAINING a road or drive. The longer and heavier that one is, the better that it will work. Those Leinbach units are a bit on the light side. You really don't want anything under 100lbs per foot of width, and 150 is a lot better. My 7 footer is 200 and my 5 footer is a little over 150. Both work excellent IMO. And to be clear, I did not make mine, I got a great deal on them from a dealer that had had them setting in his lot for over 10 years. They are RoadMaster units and have been out of business for about 15-20 years.

 

[troutsqueezer]

So what do you do when the ground is so hard that your rear blade WILL NOT dig in at all? :confused3:

While I have and use both, when the blade is on and the ground is hard and I don't feel like swapping out attachments, I lower the bucket, let the tooth bar dig in while dragging with the blade.

 

[yelbike]

I live in Canada and usually have lots of snow. I have never used a box blade on snow but suspect the scraper blade would work better. Depends on what you would use the rear implement for what woud be best. As far as a counter weight both the implements you are considering are not as good as weighted/filled tires and/or a counter weight box. The problem with the blades is the width and length they add to your tractor. They greatly limit the tractors ability to get into tight areas without hitting something.

I live in Manitoba. I find a box blade works well as long as the area where you dump the snow is close to where you picked up. It works well for driveways with lots of little hard to get to areas. But for a long driveway where you are OK with pushing the snow off to the side, I think a back blade angled works best. I have a 84" blade for my JD 2320 and it works great for snow. When its angled its probably only 60" ish wide. its to wide for dirt work, but thats why I have my small box blade. I would recommend getting an overside back blade or box blade if your doing snow removal with it. Works for me any way.
Good Luck.

To Brian, don't argue with sdkubota, that's what he wants.

 

[RDrancher]

I hate to swim against the flow but I can do more with a scraper blade then a box blade. Box blades are for people who have no idea how to move dirt or operate equipment.:stirthepot: (ducks and runs away)

Uh huh. That's why all Deere 210LE's and Case 570's are equipped from the factory with scraper blades...Oh wait...there not.

To the OP: For the price I'd jump on that Cammond box blade.