ATTN: Heavy BOX BLADE Experts.....Give us your opinions please.

   / ATTN: Heavy BOX BLADE Experts.....Give us your opinions please. #171  
Well, some people use it when raking their fields. The rake follows the ground instead of the tractor. I use it when finish grading-smoothing my roads, especially at intersections where the camber of the road changes as you go around the corners. That way the implement follows the ground instead of the tractor. See a trend? You use it when you want the implement to follow the ground, not the tractor.

If I were you, I would be on the phone and getting 2 of those remotes with the float function. ;)

Since it seems like no disadvantage to the float (except price) I put in a call to the dealer to ask if I can switch to 2 floats instead of 1 (so 2 floats and one double action). Naturally it's a couple more bucks, but the only reason I didn't order it that way originally is I didn't know when I'd need two floats.

Better to have the flexibility I guess as I am sure I'll find all kinds of ways to use the rears.
 
   / ATTN: Heavy BOX BLADE Experts.....Give us your opinions please. #172  
Since it seems like no disadvantage to the float (except price) I put in a call to the dealer to ask if I can switch to 2 floats instead of 1 (so 2 floats and one double action). Naturally it's a couple more bucks, but the only reason I didn't order it that way originally is I didn't know when I'd need two floats.

Better to have the flexibility I guess as I am sure I'll find all kinds of ways to use the rears.

Best to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it, especially for the small amount of money that they get for that option. ;)
 
   / ATTN: Heavy BOX BLADE Experts.....Give us your opinions please. #173  
You can get a larger bite going forward. Some people don't need that capability, others do.

What he said. :)

It requires better control of the 3pt if trying to finish with hit swinging. That's why it needs to be able to latch in place. Mine uses a bolt on each side. Kinda pain to latch and I've only latched it once. 99% of the time I let it swing.
 
   / ATTN: Heavy BOX BLADE Experts.....Give us your opinions please. #174  
When working my Woods BB with floating rear gate.....starting out on a new pull, I can see the box start to gather dirt and just a few inches of travel - about the time the rear gate would hinge upward - I can see the box sink into the ground further. It works.

And.....I don't have to worry about cleaning the built up dirt from between the front / rear blades :thumbsup:

...
 
   / ATTN: Heavy BOX BLADE Experts.....Give us your opinions please. #175  
I have seen this comment from many people, but don't understand the physics of it. I know the rear fixed blade is at the same level as the front, so when you tilt the front down with one of Brian's hydraulic top links, the rear fixed blade is higher and won't hold the box blade up.

If you set the angle with the standard adjustable top link, you can completely fill the box, can't get any larger bite than that! :D

I'm not an engineer so probably can't say this properly.

When my rear blade is hinged the depth of bite is controlled by the 3pt solely. So if I'm in medium hardness material I can gouge the box full in just a few feet. In softer material I can gain depth so rapidly it'll stop my tractor in it's tracks if that's what I want to do. The BB simply buries itself like a moldboard plow. I like this ability and have learned to control it pretty well.

When my rear blade is rigid the depth of bite is controlled by the difference in height of the front blade versus rear blade. Sure I can shorten my top link and speed this up. But it's nothing like having the rear blade hinged. Good side of fixed rear blade is when it's time to finish the BB is VERY forgiving and makes the operate actually look like he knows what he's doing. Finishing with a hinged rear blade is VERY difficult and requires delicate control of the 3pt and your speed.

I've grown accustomed to having the rear blade loose and get along fairly well in that mode. Best of both worlds so to speak.

I'm not sure how it would act on your machine. Your geometry is kinda strange compared to a tractor.
 
   / ATTN: Heavy BOX BLADE Experts.....Give us your opinions please. #176  
I am new to this whole tractor thing. When is the float helpful for the tilt?

I just ordered 3 rear remotes for my new tractor, but only one float. Figured for the top in certain cases but didn't think past that.

My tractor has one SCV and two float valves for the three rear remotes. I use the SCV on implements such as a wheel disc, field cultivator, hydraulic rippers on my BB, etc. I use the two float valves normally to run my top link and side link. I use float on the top link when running my brush cutter or rear angle blade if I'm not wanting to gouge or level. I have not used the float function on my side link yet. Not saying I never will. Just haven't yet. With that said, I'm with Brian, I'd want two float valves. Not much more cost and if you ever need it, you'll need it real bad!!! :)
 
   / ATTN: Heavy BOX BLADE Experts.....Give us your opinions please. #177  
Probably a stupid question, but is there any extra wear on a hydraulic cyl (or piston) say on top if in float position a lot rocking back and forth within a short range of motion with implement following the terrain?
 
   / ATTN: Heavy BOX BLADE Experts.....Give us your opinions please. #178  
Probably a stupid question, but is there any extra wear on a hydraulic cyl (or piston) say on top if in float position a lot rocking back and forth within a short range of motion with implement following the terrain?



Technically, yes. Practically, no. :rolleyes:

The coating on the rod and/or the o-rings and seals only have so many strokes in them. But the number is in the Gazillions. You won't live long enough to see a difference.
 
   / ATTN: Heavy BOX BLADE Experts.....Give us your opinions please. #179  
I'm not an engineer so probably can't say this properly.

When my rear blade is hinged the depth of bite is controlled by the 3pt solely. So if I'm in medium hardness material I can gouge the box full in just a few feet. In softer material I can gain depth so rapidly it'll stop my tractor in it's tracks if that's what I want to do. The BB simply buries itself like a moldboard plow. I like this ability and have learned to control it pretty well.

When my rear blade is rigid the depth of bite is controlled by the difference in height of the front blade versus rear blade. Sure I can shorten my top link and speed this up. But it's nothing like having the rear blade hinged. Good side of fixed rear blade is when it's time to finish the BB is VERY forgiving and makes the operate actually look like he knows what he's doing. Finishing with a hinged rear blade is VERY difficult and requires delicate control of the 3pt and your speed.

I've grown accustomed to having the rear blade loose and get along fairly well in that mode. Best of both worlds so to speak.

I'm not sure how it would act on your machine. Your geometry is kinda strange compared to a tractor.
Especially this one! :laughing:
P8040046.JPG P8040048.JPG P8040051.JPG
I usually put the loader arms in float and use curl to control the depth while backing up.

This machine has float on the boom, so it is the same operation.
P4230001.JPG P4230002.JPG P4230005.JPG P4230007 M.jpg
 
   / ATTN: Heavy BOX BLADE Experts.....Give us your opinions please. #180  
Dennis, that Toro is one mean looking machine. Looks to be one of a kind and very versatile.
 
 

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