At Home In The Woods

   / At Home In The Woods #5,441  
I don't have much money to invest, but housing is low right now. With cash money you can get twice the house you could a few years ago. Rents are pretty high because a lot of folks who could get loans a while back can't today. They are forced to rent. If you have the money for a rental house, you know what your income will be. It might not be as high in the long run as the market, but it's steady.

And I think there is a bubble in stock prices right now. They are too high for the rocky recovery we are having. I think there will be an adjustment soon. Of coarse there is no way of knowing when or how much of one. That's the scary part.
 
   / At Home In The Woods #5,442  
I don't have much money to invest, but housing is low right now. With cash money you can get twice the house you could a few years ago. Rents are pretty high because a lot of folks who could get loans a while back can't today. They are forced to rent. If you have the money for a rental house, you know what your income will be. It might not be as high in the long run as the market, but it's steady.

And I think there is a bubble in stock prices right now. They are too high for the rocky recovery we are having. I think there will be an adjustment soon. Of coarse there is no way of knowing when or how much of one. That's the scary part.

Renting is a tough situation with risks. I had the nightmare renter once that I had to get the Sheriffs to evict. wouldn't surprise me if the dude isn't in jail on a murder rap by now.
 
   / At Home In The Woods #5,443  
I don't have much money to invest, but housing is low right now. With cash money you can get twice the house you could a few years ago. Rents are pretty high because a lot of folks who could get loans a while back can't today. They are forced to rent. If you have the money for a rental house, you know what your income will be. It might not be as high in the long run as the market, but it's steady.

And I think there is a bubble in stock prices right now. They are too high for the rocky recovery we are having. I think there will be an adjustment soon. Of coarse there is no way of knowing when or how much of one. That's the scary part.

Renting is a tough situation with risks. I had the nightmare renter once that I had to get the Sheriffs to evict. wouldn't surprise me if the dude isn't in jail on a murder rap by now.
 
   / At Home In The Woods #5,444  
Renting is a tough situation with risks. I had the nightmare renter once that I had to get the Sheriffs to evict. wouldn't surprise me if the dude isn't in jail on a murder rap by now.

We have been through it too. We decided to sell one of our houses, and are using the other one for storage. If prices get back up, we will sell it too. But if you put the rent high enough, you get a better class of renters.

It takes more up front work, but if you can get a loan, you can acquire houses for little out of pocket money. Margie's uncle bought four or five houses by paying the down payment and getting long term renters to pay the mortgage each month. The loans were paid off when he died. Now his wife and kinds have a good income for life, or as long as they want to keep the houses.
 
   / At Home In The Woods #5,445  
Just sold my rental close Monday thank the man upstairs.

Scooter
 
   / At Home In The Woods #5,446  
for a variety of reasons, we had a rental house that was 1000 miles away from where we live. you have no idea of the condition of anything, and have to make decisions based on information that is contradictory provided by people you usually don't know. we will hopefully close the sale on the 30th of this month and i will be ever so relived if and when that happens. having rental property that you can actually keep an eye on would have to be a less tumultuous experience.

i know that property rental can be a good source of income if done correctly. my parents, for example, have 11 or so rental houses. all but one of them are fully paid off and they derive a nice income from their real estate empire even though everything is done via a management company. further evidence, not that any is really needed, that my parents are smarter than i am.
 
   / At Home In The Woods
  • Thread Starter
#5,447  
The next door neighbor to the rental house is a plumber and seems to be a really good chap. I paid him to install a pressure reducer and put in a new cut-off valve where the city water enters the house. The house had no pressure reducer and was exposed to whatever pressure was at the street. That made me nervous.

IMG_0050.JPG
 
   / At Home In The Woods
  • Thread Starter
#5,448  
The framing around the rental house's basement shower was not very good. I debated whether or not to reframe it. I really went back and forth. However, end the end I just couldn't leave the framing like it was. I removed most of the framing and started from scratch.

The framing under the shower gave inadequate support to the shower pan which is probably why the shower pan cracked. I decided to put a piece of Advantak under the new pan. I had not room to raise the height of the shower so I had to notch out the floor joists and in order to recess the Advantak flush.

IMG_0085.JPG IMG_0086.JPG IMG_0087.JPG IMG_0088.JPG IMG_0089.JPG IMG_0090.JPG
 
   / At Home In The Woods
  • Thread Starter
#5,449  
I screwed some pressure treated 2x4s to the concrete block walls using tapcon screws. The original shower framing was not attached to the concrete; it just had some 2x4s resting against the concrete but not attached.

IMG_0096.JPG IMG_0097.JPG
 
   / At Home In The Woods
  • Thread Starter
#5,450  
I observed that rain runs from the concrete parking pad into the carport. As a result, the bottom of one of the wood carport walls gets wet when it rains. I need to divert the water. Does anybody have any suggestions?

IMG_0098.JPG
 
   / At Home In The Woods #5,451  
The two options that come to mind off the top of my head are put in a "speed bump" to divert rain or cut out some cement and insert a drain to divert water off to the side.
 
   / At Home In The Woods #5,452  
Get some saw chaps. please.

and wear them.

I keep thinking I need to do this but I only remember this after I do what Obed did - which I've done twice (I'm a slow learner .... ) - I'm going to Rural King tomorrow and I'll look for some there. I've got some chainsaw work ahead for next weekend and I'd like to keep my kneecaps!
:eek:
 
   / At Home In The Woods #5,453  
Probably the quickest method would be a speed bump out of asphalt or cement. But the smaller these are the less internal support they have, and would tend to disintegrate fairly rapidly. They do make plastic ones...regardless - I personally am not a fan. Especially if you get a glaze of ice or snow to contend with. Nothing like being stuck in the drive.

The best method, IMHO, would be a prefab trench and grate. Hundreds of manufacturers. Can get with fall built into the trench box. Composites, concrete, steel. Many options. Obviously you need adequate fall fairly close to the edge of the existing drive to whisk the water away. From the picture it looks like this wouldn't be a problem.

Of course, this means making a straight cut or two to create a channel for the trench, a bit of light jack-hammering and the setting of the trench box back into the concrete. Or, just buy the grating and cast the trench with concrete. Lots of options here. I did a google image search and was impressed at the styles that's currently available.

You definitely want fall in the trench to prevent any standing water. No sense in helping out the Mosquitos!!
 
   / At Home In The Woods #5,454  
Probably the quickest method would be a speed bump out of asphalt or cement. But the smaller these are the less internal support they have, and would tend to disintegrate fairly rapidly. They do make plastic ones...regardless - I personally am not a fan. Especially if you get a glaze of ice or snow to contend with. Nothing like being stuck in the drive.

The best method, IMHO, would be a prefab trench and grate. Hundreds of manufacturers. Can get with fall built into the trench box. Composites, concrete, steel. Many options. Obviously you need adequate fall fairly close to the edge of the existing drive to whisk the water away. From the picture it looks like this wouldn't be a problem.

Of course, this means making a straight cut or two to create a channel for the trench, a bit of light jack-hammering and the setting of the trench box back into the concrete. Or, just buy the grating and cast the trench with concrete. Lots of options here. I did a google image search and was impressed at the styles that's currently available.

You definitely want fall in the trench to prevent any standing water. No sense in helping out the Mosquitos!!

Another fast and easy option is to use a grinder and grind a shallow ditch across the surface. It would alleviate the problem except for heavy downpours and give him time to decide if he wants to do a ditch/channel (which is the best option)
 
   / At Home In The Woods #5,455  
The two options that come to mind off the top of my head are put in a "speed bump" to divert rain or cut out some cement and insert a drain to divert water off to the side.

water bar is name of them for roads

post_waterbar-bw.JPG

it doesn't have to be that aggressive just an inch or so would work in the correct direction.

tom
 
   / At Home In The Woods #5,457  
I observed that rain runs from the concrete parking pad into the carport. As a result, the bottom of one of the wood carport walls gets wet when it rains. I need to divert the water. Does anybody have any suggestions?

View attachment 341202

Obed

Here is a quick and easy way to remedy MOST of the problem.

First: clean out the joint between the driveway and carport pads (using a grinder if needed).

Second: cut some rubber strips (3/4 - 1" wide depending on the depth of the cleaned out joint) from some rubber inner tubes, e.g. They don't have to be one piece long enough to reach
across the whole length of the joint but can be overlapped.

Third: put some silicone caulk into the joint and imbed the rubber strips on edge into the silicone (overlapping if necessary.) This will leave only about 1/2 inch or so protruding above the concrete.

This will be enough to effectively redirect the water to the side if there is some fall, which there
appears to be.

This thin barrier will go unnoticed when one drives over it and it is resilient enough to return to the upright position after being driven over.

I have even used just the caulk in a 3/8 inch bead to do much the same thing but the rubber would work better in your case, I believe.

HTH

Arkaybee
 
   / At Home In The Woods #5,458  
Hi

I can't speak for how well this idea will or will not work BUT... Do not use a car or truck innertube. After a year in the sun or light, the UV rays will deteriorate the rubber and it will start to break down. If you want this to be a success find another material to use instead of car innertube. :)

Cheers :drink:

Don
 
   / At Home In The Woods #5,459  
Obed

Here is a quick and easy way to remedy MOST of the problem.

First: clean out the joint between the driveway and carport pads (using a grinder if needed).

Second: cut some rubber strips (3/4 - 1" wide depending on the depth of the cleaned out joint) from some rubber inner tubes, e.g. They don't have to be one piece long enough to reach
across the whole length of the joint but can be overlapped.

Third: put some silicone caulk into the joint and imbed the rubber strips on edge into the silicone (overlapping if necessary.) This will leave only about 1/2 inch or so protruding above the concrete.

This will be enough to effectively redirect the water to the side if there is some fall, which there
appears to be.

This thin barrier will go unnoticed when one drives over it and it is resilient enough to return to the upright position after being driven over.

I have even used just the caulk in a 3/8 inch bead to do much the same thing but the rubber would work better in your case, I believe.

HTH

Arkaybee

Hi

I can't speak for how well this idea will or will not work BUT... Do not use a car or truck innertube. After a year in the sun or light, the UV rays will deteriorate the rubber and it will start to break down. If you want this to be a success find another material to use instead of car innertube. :)

Cheers :drink:

Don

conveyor belt is a good choice long life not normally tire rubber and will last a while it can be used in short but most use a 10" piece of belting with PT 2x6's on both sides and bury in a trench with the top an inch above grade and angled int the direction down hill. The 2x6's kep it in place as an anchor.

tom
 
   / At Home In The Woods #5,460  
I observed that rain runs from the concrete parking pad into the carport. As a result, the bottom of one of the wood carport walls gets wet when it rains. I need to divert the water. Does anybody have any suggestions?

View attachment 341202

concrete hump at the edge or somewhere to divert the water whereever it comes from.
 

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