Hot asphalt in their 14' goose neck dump trailer?

[Tim Stuart]

I am need to do some road work on my driveway at my place and was thinking about trying to lay some asphalt on a steep hill I have to keep the gravel from washing. Has anybody hauled some hot asphalt in their 14' goose neck dump trailer? I am worried about the heat effecting the tires ,pealing the paint or possible melting the wiring harness . I need to haul about 50 tons over 5 days so its not a big rush.

Regards,

Tim

 

[Diamondpilot]

I am need to do some road work on my driveway at my place and was thinking about trying to lay some asphalt on a steep hill I have to keep the gravel from washing. Has anybody hauled some hot asphalt in their 14' goose neck dump trailer? I am worried about the heat effecting the tires ,pealing the paint or possible melting the wiring harness . I need to haul about 50 tons over 5 days so its not a big rush.

Regards,

Tim

I would not want the stuff in my trailer. Hire a dump truck to do the work.

Chris

 

[aczlan]

I would not want the stuff in my trailer. Hire a dump truck to do the work.

Agreed. You will save enough just in time cleaning out your trailer to pay for the truck...

Aaron Z

 

[Egon]

Exactly what will the asphalt work involve?

Will you be spreading and levelling yourself?

Any packing required?

What about sub grade preparation?

If you want your money's worth there is more involved than just hauling and dumping asphalt. Consider a contractor with proper equipment??

 

[bandaidmd]

I am need to do some road work on my driveway at my place and was thinking about trying to lay some asphalt on a steep hill I have to keep the gravel from washing. Has anybody hauled some hot asphalt in their 14' goose neck dump trailer? I am worried about the heat effecting the tires ,pealing the paint or possible melting the wiring harness . I need to haul about 50 tons over 5 days so its not a big rush.

Regards,

Tim

Its 300F so i doubt it would be able to transfer enough heat out to the tires to matter.
I probably would do a small batch for potholes and patching but if you need 50 tons that's a minimum of 10 loads in a 12K trailer.

 

[QRTRHRS]

Ahh asphalt. Prior to about 1976, I hauled it, worked on a ground crew with a rather primitive spreader and tended a plant. If memory serves, it is 365 degrees out of the plant. Mostly, the trucks you see hauling it today have aluminum dump bodies. Take a look, they get pretty nasty looking. Back when I was doing it, there were alot of steel dump bodies with traditional paint not powder coat and much heavier steel. The paint held up okay, but there was not much shine to be had, nor did people really care. Chrome and chicken lights were not such a big deal back then. I expect it will at the least dull out the paint. Melted rubber and wiring were not an issue.

Spray a light coat of fuel oil on your bed prior to loading the asphalt. The state inspectors do not like it but for your useage, it won't hurt. Asphalt cools rapidly so unless you are like five minutes from a plant, cover it with a heavy canvas tarp which will hold up to the heat. When you run out, place a 2x4 against to leave a blunt end to start the next load against. Talk to the plant people. They can dial in the exact amount of weight to drop into your trailer.

I can recall this small company that did all of there work by hand, no spreader. They would rake it out to depth, maybe screed it like concrete then roll it. You do need to roll it out somehow. What are your plans for that? You can go back and forth with a vehicle and it will look bad but will function.

 

[94BULLITT]

Put some Kerosene in the bed so it won't stick as bad but you will still have a mess.

 

[paulharvey]

Most Super Pave mixes (Sp-9.5/12.5/19mm) are 305-325 degrees. We have put asphalt in coolers, buckets, pick ups, ect (the plastic 5 gal buckets are never shaped quite the same afterwords). Put some diesel in a weed sprayer and spray the inside of the trailer to prevent sticking. Trailer tires will be fine, paint I dont know about inside if the dump body (not many dump trucks have any paint left on the inside) but outside will be fine.

When you order asphalt, im going to assume they will basically sell you what ever they are running for the day, so just avoid anything they call Friction, Popcorn, or FC-5. These mixes have a lot of rubber in them, making handwork, cleaning truck/trailer/tools harder.

With what your working on, make sure you deal with any grass first, the asphalt will not kill it, and will actually spur its growth if you have over it. If you dont have a wacker packer (vibratory plate compactor) with watering system, you can throw sand on the hot asphalt before compacting to keep the asphalt from sticking (plus it helps fill the rough texture areas, improving appearance, ride quality)

Dont know what you have been quoted on materials, but in North Central Florida, its running $57-$64/ton FOB (picked up at plant).

 

[PILOON]

You could also consider recycled or shredded asphalt.
Costs less, not messy , spreads like crushed stone.
Very resistant to water run off damage on hills and within a short time fuses or binds itself back to a 'pavedlike' surface.
Should be done beginning of hot season and compaction helps a lot. Even driving back and forth helps. (city uses grader wheels to compact)
Naturally a vibrator compactor is the best.

I did my hills 18 yrs ago and never regretted it. (compaction was a loaded dump truck with bald tires)
Our city has been doing the same thing on all the hilly parts of their many gravel roads thus reducing grading drastically.
In fact down to 2-3 times per year as against bi-weekly plus every rain storm.

In my area crushed recycle is actually cheaper than crushed stone and much more effective.

On smaller projects some folks actually use a rented vibrating plate compactor.

 

[downslope]

Even recycled concrete aggregate binds better than plain crushed stone, especially if it has a good amount concrete dust in it.

 

[RedNeckRacin]

To everyone who suggested using some type of fuel oil as a release agent; They should realize that this is a very poor historic hauling practice that has contributed to the failure of many miles of roadways due to the contamination of the aspahlt mix. Please do not endorse/suggest this unless its for your own private use. Truckers will swear by the practice but have very little interest in the longevity of the HMA as opposed to keeping their trucks clean. I am not very familiar with HMA but I do believe that they have a release agent specifically for use in truck bodies to get the mix out. Most haulers (in this area) have heated beds and vibrators to help dislodged the material.

As for the recycled asphalt, check with your local regulations. In PA for instance, you cannot leave the recycled asphalt exposed to the elements in a road because it leaches petroleum products more easily than a placed mix will. It may be used as a sub-grade only and then sufficiently capped. The price of the binder has gone up so much that most companies recycle it to save on their costs and are not very likely to give it away.

 

[94BULLITT]

They have a tank at the asphalt plant here that they use to put fuel oil on the truck bed before getting a load but I see your point.

 

[paulharvey]

In Florida, technically, your supost to use "non petroleum based soap solution" and there is a orange oil based product. The amount of diesel I'm talking about is probably less than a pint sprayed over the bed, and should not affect the asphalt durability.

 

[downslope]

When you buy any of these recycled materials how do you know that they are contaminant/pollutant free? The RCA I've placed in my driveway from time to time obtained from the local supply yard seems to have anything and everything in it; concrete chips, rebar, brick, asphalt, soil, shreds of black plastic film, I even saw a condom in it one time. My guess is a lot of building demolition material is being ground up and mixed in. How would you know if asbestos debris was in there? Do the states regulate and inspect any of this stuff? I ask because some of the operators of these recycling/sand mine/quarry places don't always seem to be the most scrupulous of business persons.

 

[msmith1wa]

I would not expect the paint or the wiring to be affected by the heat. As stated above the asphalt should be 300 degrees plus or minus as it comes out of the silo at the plant. If you really want to make sure you could place some pieces of plywood on the sides. As part of my job, I test and inspect asphalt, part of which involves inspecting the plants. I live in Washington and in my state diesel is not allowed to be used on the boxes, the plants have a station for spraying a release agent that is supposed to be non hazardous.

I hope you have helpers and reasonable equipment. Without this, your project can quickly turn into a disaster, I have seen them. Spreading asphalt is not the same as spreading gravel, and it needs to be compacted before it gets too cool. If it is not compacted before it cools it will not have a long life especially on a hill.

For those recommending to use recycled materials, I agree that they can be superior to virgin rock. In my state there is a law that requires the company that processes and sells the material to have it tested every for hazardous materials.

 

[kw22614]

rent a small kettle, buy the asphalt kegs and do it yourself. careful you'll need ALL high heat buckets and equipement to do it.

 

[bandaidmd]

rent a small kettle, buy the asphalt kegs and do it yourself. careful you'll need ALL high heat buckets and equipement to do it.

Hes doing a driveway not a roof? unless your suggesting tar and chip instead of compacted asphalt concrete.

 

[kw22614]

Hes doing a driveway not a roof? unless your suggesting tar and chip instead of compacted asphalt concrete.

Same diff. Use with pea gravel. Spray the hot asphalt, spread pea gravel, or even cheap slag as on a roof, spray more asphalt. works on roofs for 20 -25 yrs. Why not a road? Do you only eat eggs for breakfast???

 

[paulharvey]

Same diff. Use with pea gravel. Spray the hot asphalt, spread pea gravel, or even cheap slag as on a roof, spray more asphalt. works on roofs for 20 -25 yrs. Why not a road? Do you only eat eggs for breakfast???

Thats basically what we call Chip Seal. A tack wagon or tack truck sprays the rock, and you spread rock. Its not a bad product/process, but its roughly $2.40/sy in large quanity for single coarse (1/2" rock on tack) compared to $5.00/sy/1" of asphalt (once again in quantity). You get a inferior product at less than substantial savings. It requires speciality equipment (tack truck, rock spreader, and traffic roller) and he still needs to haul in 1/2" granite chips at $20-30/ton. I agree with idea, lay 1-2" of asphalt (110-220#/sy) roll with small/medium roller or in small areas use plate compacter; and be good for next 15 years

 

[Tim Stuart]

Sorry for the delay but I have been working. As far as equipment I should be reasonably set. I have a Mitsubishi dozer, 2 30/40 hp tractors, and a brand new PJ dump trailer, as far as compaction I have a old 10’ long 40” tall / 325 gallon propane tank I want to build a roller out off. The roller should weight approximately 4000lbs and would even consider purchasing a walk behind compaction plate. I was also think about building a 10’ wide spreader box to lay a consistent layer of asphalt. I have little better that a ½ mile of road to my house down a private road so if I can make this work I would slowly do it all as my funds become available. The 400’ section I want to start with is the steepest section of the road the rest is reasonably flat or rolling hills. I have spent thousands of $ on this particular section of the road over the past 10 years due to washing down hill and feel like I am flushing money down the toilet so need to change my tactics on it. As far as spraying fuel oil in the dump trailer would not be a problem or a concern. I would not mind chip seal on top over good road base just need something to bind the material together to keep it from washing. There is about a 25-30 elevation change in this particular section of the road. I have considered pouring concrete in this area but can not afford to pour the entire 1/2 of road. So I am open to all suggestions.

Regards,

Tim