Link to homebuilt tractor cab, Kubota L3000

[roygage]

Well its coming on to summer this side of th Pacific. I read your article and echo the compliments of my priors on your build and particularly your literary skill! In fact it was motivational. I did a similar job but 'scored' a touchdown with a second hand engineered cab for a fair price on account of the armourplate glass being worth $$thousands$$ here & I need it for safety with tree work.It was designed for an IHI of some sort and All that needed doing was position the crate & create some mounts. Quickly discovered the roll bar could stay if cut & rewelded(I'm certed for arc),so done and MIGed it to mimick the rear cab frame angle is unnoticeable.Other benefits are built in roof mounted fan and front filtered intake and very importantly a windscreen wiper. I'll take a leaf from your book for the headlining as the foam remaining up there rains down on my hat at present. should serve to silence the inherent acoustics. I'll try to load a couple of pics for interested persons. And I Thank You for the motivation to tackle it myself and some nuggets of inspiration provided by your instructional account of your own venture.

Nice score on the cab and a great job of adopting it to your tractor. So much nicer with the cab.

 

[GPintheMitten]

Roy, I appreciate your blog with all your tips and techniques that you used. Great pictures too.

I'm doing some planning for a cab build on my Kubota B2620. Currently I'm trying to decide how to support the cab in the rear. I understand that you attached it to the ROPs somehow but I'm not clear on where or how. Is the cab supported at the top sitting on top of the Rops or down lower? And yes, I know about the warning on making modifications to the ROPS. I agree, I'm in charge of me.

Hope to hear from you (or any others who have put a cab on a B series). I have a plan for attaching the front to the fel bracket but not sure how I want to support it rear word.

While I'm at it, I'll ask about making the rear window fixed or openable. I have a rear pto mounted snow blower with electric shoot rotation, so it is not critical to be able to reach thru the rear. I also have foldable Rops but I don't have to fold it to get it inside the shop or barn. I just dont know if it is worth it to make it openable.

Thanks!

 

[chim]

Roy's site was one of the most helpful and informative places I found when doing lots of seaching befor talking my cab. I had a B-Series for 10 years and never gathered the courage to attempt a cab while I owned it. So attachemnt details were something I didn't check for. If it's any help here are the main attachment points I used on the L-Series.

Excuse the folded-down ROPS. It won't make it in the shed with it up. The FEL joystick support worked great on the right side, so I made a mirror image of it for the left side. On the rear, I drilled out the threads and through bolted it. The weight is carried by two small clip angles welded to the rear cab frame and they just rest on the ROPS stub. These don't show in the first pic because it was taken earlier in the build. I used 1x1x12Ga tube for the main framing. Since the cab is made in sections the tube is doubled up / bolted in parallel in most places.

 

[GPintheMitten]

Thanks Chim. After I posted I went back and took a look at your thread. I have the same threaded nut welded to the ROPS from the factory. That looks like a good way to go. I'll just use the same threaded bolt instead of drilling it out because I want the ROPS up. I also noted you attached on the fender where the light had been. I think I'll do that as well after adding some additional support on the fender bracket. You did a nice job on your cab.

 

[haroldy]

attached is my homemade can
I drilled and tapped two hole in the lower rops
drilled two holes in the fel supports
not too fancy but keeps weather off and easy to remove come spring

 

[chim]

..............................I'll just use the same threaded bolt instead of drilling it out because I want the ROPS up. I also noted you attached on the fender where the light had been. I think I'll do that as well after adding some additional support on the fender bracket. You did a nice job on your cab.

I think that's a good way to go. To help carry the weight on the back side you could make up the fastening point at that nut so there would be a piece of steel drilled to fit over the nut, and then run the bolt into the threads. I'm guessing the welded on nut will provide more support than the metric bolt that will go into it. Another possibility is running a tab back alongside the ROPS hinge and using a hefty bolt through an unused hole.

The bolts through the fenders were put there more for making sure they stayed clear of the cab frame. I expected - but haven't seen - some flexing and didn't want the fender's paint to get scratched off.

 

[GPintheMitten]

Thanks haroldy. I'm becoming less concerned about some slight mods to the rops.

Good points Chim. I was looking at the holes in the rops hinge.

Just came in from the shop. I've been working on a plan to beef up the fender brackets that were welded to the ROPS at the factory.

I'll start a new thread soon and post a link here when I do.

 

[roygage]

Roy, I appreciate your blog with all your tips and techniques that you used. Great pictures too. Thanks for the kind words, I am glad the site was of some help.

I'm doing some planning for a cab build on my Kubota B2620. Currently I'm trying to decide how to support the cab in the rear. I understand that you attached it to the ROPs somehow but I'm not clear on where or how. Is the cab supported at the top sitting on top of the Rops or down lower? And yes, I know about the warning on making modifications to the ROPS. I agree, I'm in charge of me.

Hope to hear from you (or any others who have put a cab on a B series). I have a plan for attaching the front to the fel bracket but not sure how I want to support it rear word.

While I'm at it, I'll ask about making the rear window fixed or openable. I have a rear pto mounted snow blower with electric shoot rotation, so it is not critical to be able to reach thru the rear. I also have foldable Rops but I don't have to fold it to get it inside the shop or barn. I just dont know if it is worth it to make it openable.

Thanks!

I mounted my cab off the ROPS but down lower. I used a couple of rear wheel drive GM transmission mounts. The front of the cab is mounted down low also. I did not use rubber mounts at the forward mount location.

As for the rear window, mine does not open and works well that way. The quarter window on the right side does open though and I am happy with air I get through the cab in the summer with that window open and the drivers door removed

 

[roygage]

Nice job! Gets my blood pumping.

 

[roygage]

Roy's site was one of the most helpful and informative places I found when doing lots of seaching befor talking my cab. I had a B-Series for 10 years and never gathered the courage to attempt a cab while I owned it. So attachemnt details were something I didn't check for. If it's any help here are the main attachment points I used on the L-Series.

Excuse the folded-down ROPS. It won't make it in the shed with it up. The FEL joystick support worked great on the right side, so I made a mirror image of it for the left side. On the rear, I drilled out the threads and through bolted it. The weight is carried by two small clip angles welded to the rear cab frame and they just rest on the ROPS stub. These don't show in the first pic because it was taken earlier in the build. I used 1x1x12Ga tube for the main framing. Since the cab is made in sections the tube is doubled up / bolted in parallel in most places.

Very nice job. Love the steel work.