Kubota B2650 and B3350 info and hints

[bumperm]

Comment ** between the lines:

Bumper,

Great work with the pe lining.

** Thanks! Couple of snows and no more sticking, clogging, or need to spray Pam etc - - at least in the chute.

I am waiting to see if you line the impeller housing...

** Still on the fence on this one. One of my impeller blades won't clear 1/8" UHMW PE, the other 3 will. To do it right, I'll need to remove the impeller, true up the edges, at least so they're even, and re-balance it. I can static balance it using a motorcycle wheel stand, but also have a computer balancer that's designed to balance aircraft propellers and turbines.

How did you fasten the pe in the areas that you lined?

** The larger chute liner fits snugly, and is only held in place by the two small front guard grill bolts (grill not used), and by the chute deflector radius slot bolts. It has not tendency to move and is firmly in place, mostly due to the geometry. The chute liner is in 3 pieces, I used 6-32 countersink SS screws, drilled and tapped the chute, countersunk the PE and just ran the screws in from the inside, with no nuts on the outside. Could have used screws with locknuts. I used only two fasteners per piece as the two at the exit edge of the curved flat piece (it gets the most impact) and the curved shape of the side pieces tend to hold the curved piece in place (curved piece installed first and overlapped by edges of side pieces.

Also, do you have a link to the led lights and the Jergens pin?

** I did get a smoking good deal on the Jergens pins. The seller corrected that eBay listing error immediately after receiving my order (I tried to order two more at the good price! Greedy, I know.) For the LED lights, just go to eBay and search <LED work light, 36W> it'll be the first one that comes up - - further, it's 7" wide.

I have a B3000 with a 2782, and the regen idiosyncracy exists in the B3000/LA403 FEL controls as well.

I was thinking about creating (drilling/milling) a hole into the chain cover plate so as to apply chain lube instead of removing the plate. Take a look at that and see what you think.

** Good idea! I'll have a look at it. I may install a drip tube that will drip the oil onto the inside surface of the chain. Only need a small cup or cavity on the outside with a cover to keep water and dirt out, fill with oil, go blow snow. Kind of like the McCoy (of "real McCoy fame") oiler used on steam locomotives.

RFB

bumper

 

[bumperm]

Dan,

Thankfully we don't have to deal with urea injection on the B3350, and my understanding is it doesn't use EGR either, just the DPF and as you said, delayed injection timing.

At least the DPF is *supposed* to last thousands of hours . . . at almost 69, I'm not sure I even have thousands of tractor hours left :c)

I plan to buy a shop manual for the tractor when I can find one. Looking at the free parts diagram/lists on Messicks is helpful, but haven't been able to determine much about the B3350's regen function, if it uses a computer, timer, or input from the 3 temperature probes on the DPF. I can't find any indication that is uses differential pressure (Delta P) to initiate regen. Nor is there an LCD display of DPF blockage percentage as there is on some of the larger 'Botas.

bumper

 

[Dan W]

Happy NewYear Bumper,
Interestingly there is a ton of information out there regarding emission systems in the truck transportation market and hardly any the ag business. The US EPA's mandate (from 1999 until 2013) was to get diesel engine NOx emissions down to near 0 and the same for soot. The first step was the removal of sulfur from diesel fuel, down to 15ppm (sulfur is what causes soot in retarded injection systems and EGR engines). The EGR systems worked to slow down the rate of burn during combustion, thereby reducing combustion temperatures which resulted in lowering NOx, but on the negative side, created soot due to cooler combustion, which required an exhaust trap or filter. The DPF works best under higher engine loads(it works as a function of heat), it traps soot and burns it into ash which falls to the bottom of the filter housing, to be cleaned out after so many hours of use. The filter does this while the tractor is working normally (under engine load) and a forced regeneration is not typically required all that often. The soot trap DPF loads up over time and will do so rather quickly especially when the engine exhaust is cooler due to light loads, and the pressure transducers (one at the inlet and one at the outlet) read the preset deltaP, then sets off an indicator light telling the operator to start a parked regeneration, (hopefully not while parked under a tree) which is a controlled burn set off by the DOC (diesel oxidation cat or furnace) to super heat the DPF. Some systems do not use DOCs and accomplish the DPF burn using an in-cylinder solution (needs to be an electronic injection engine controlled by an ecm). Either way super heat needs to be generated inside the DPF to burn the soot.
My new tractor has a retarded engine (the Fred should like that term) and it starts poorly, (inside my heated shop) never fires on all cylinders, takes about 3 to 5 seconds to fire them all, but my older one starts great.
Take care Bumper...

Dan

 

[bumperm]

Dan,

My B3350 has the same starting issues you describe. Holding glow plugs on longer (it's a manual decision on this model, not auto timed) seems to help a little, as does having the throttle at mid point . . . but still it chugs and stumbles along, sometimes for 6 to 10 seconds - - if it were a person, you'd slap it on the back.

The DPF on this tractor has three probes, all of them temperature sensors according to the parts list and each with different part numbers. I've removed each and they do appear to be temperature probes. One was quite difficult to remove, even though the engine was low time, 15 hours, the hex nut tended t deform though I was using a six point box end wrench (I had to remove contacts from plug to get the wrench on - - previous attempts with a flare nut wrench were not going to do it. Also had to apply heat. On re-assembly I used nickel anti-seize and moderate torque!

I'd sure like to know more about the tractors regen programming. If it were out of warranty I'd be tempted to . . .


bumper

 

[RFB]

Bumper,

"I may install a drip tube that will drip the oil onto the inside surface of the chain. Only need a small cup or cavity on the outside with a cover to keep water and dirt out, fill with oil, go blow snow."

I started looking at drip oilers and found this; not high tech but it has a certain elegance in its simplicity: Simple Drip Oiler for a Horizontal Bandsaw - YouTube

I saw one made from aluminum on Ebay for $11.69

After seeing some of your work I am sure that yours will be stainless steel with a wifi digital control from inside the cab

 

[bumperm]

Bumper,

After seeing some of your work I am sure that yours will be stainless steel with a wifi digital control from inside the cab

Guilty . . . I get carried away sometimes.

In this case, though, a drip oiler may be overkill. Most drive chains, and I think this one, are O-ring type, with sealed in lubricant. The user manual suggests chainsaw bar oil at I think 10 hour intervals.

EDIT: Manual says every 4 hours and after each use.

Bar oil is typically sticky, and besides making a mess, tends to stay in place for awhile. It's only being used to lube the rollers and sprocket wear surfaces as the lube inside the chain takes care of the pin to roller interface.

So, I'm thinking just a small metal cup with tube to dribble a little bar oil onto the "inside" of the chain loop as the blower is running. No needle valve needed, as the oil can dump onto the chain in seconds and enough will stay in place for the duration. Good news is it's a nice clean environment, no dust or dirt to speak of (completely unlike a motorcycle or bicycle chain) and so chain and sprocket life should be good.

bumper

 

[number two]

For lubrication of the o-ring chain on the B2782 blower,it's nice to have a helper.
I place the PTO selection lever in the rear PTO position;this allows the front(mid)driveshaft to turn freely.
Just ahead of where the driveshaft enters the blower is a small space through which you can see the chain.
Having the helper rotate the blower fan turns the driveshaft and chain allowing me to apply lubricant to the slowly rotating chain.
I've been using Lucas oil supplement at the suggestion of a long time biker friend.The quart bottle easily applies the lube through small opening.

Beats taking off the chain cover every time-I seem to recall 4 hour chain lube intervals.Good Luck!

 

[BadDog]

Dealing with a ridiculous amount of snow here in Erie Pa this year. Snowblower works great, B2650 not so much. It works great for 1 hour or so, then starts blowing black smoke and losing power. Dropping the revs removes the smoke, but leaves me unable to do any meaningful work, other than limp back home. It's relatively cold lately (only 15-20F), and I've been leaving the tractor outside, so I'm wondering if it's just the diesel gelling, or water in the fuel forming ice crystals. No obvious water is visible in the fuel filter. It runs fine (for another hour or so) if I put it in my heated shop (60F) for an hour or so. Added some Stanadyne (~2 oz) and new fuel tonight, and will let it sit in the workshop overnight and hit the snow drifts again tomorrow. Will update if this cures the issue, and appreciate any ideas anyone might offer.

 

[RFB]

Get it to heated shop, pull the filter and wash it in Power Service 911 (Red Bottle). Drain fuel tank; use a siphon to get most old fuel out. Add fresh fuel with Power Service White Bottle, and give it a generous amount. Mix some Red Bottle 911 with some fresh diesel and fill the filter cup, reinstall the filter, run tractor and also bleed 30 seconds.

The Red Bottle 911 should clear the filter and clean any downstream clogs; the fresh fuel with White Bottle will take over and prevent further.

 

[BadDog]

RFB, thanks for the advice. I replaced the fuel and installed a brand new fuel filter. Ran for an hour, then more black smoke and no power. Limped back to the shop at about 1400 rpm - that's all I could get without smoking. Clearly there is no fuel problem, even though it was only 3F this morning. Curious, I opened the air filter canister, the filter inside was entirely encased in ice crystals; in fact the canister was fully packed with ice. I pulled out both the outer and inner filters; the inner was a bit wet, but not frozen. I dried it out with compressed air, and re-installed with a new outer air filter. Looking at the air intake coming from the canister, I notice it was routed to sit on the top of the radiator shroud, so it draws in fresh outside air from the front of the radiator. I adjusted it to fit behind the radiator shroud, twisting the upper air hose assembly to put the intake on the other side of the engine bay, so it will not get fresh outside air, but air that is directly behind the radiator shroud. Closed things up and back outside to try again. This time, no issues, 2 hours of snow removal and no black smoke, no power loss, all is good again. When I finished, I went back in the shop to see if the air filter was wet or icy. Dry as a bone, and warm, but not hot. Problem solved! I will remember to move the intake back in the summer if I notice any overheating.