V10, no power.

[QRTRHRS]

Changing out the plugs has been on my "to do" list for awhile now. I have had coil packs go bad but the engine runs smooth and while setting, the throttle reponse is normal.

My oxygen is out for my torch so I decided to cut the pipe behind the cat, gut it out then band clamp it. I will get back on the results later on today.

 

[QRTRHRS]

Had the same thing happen, it was the fuel pump 100%

Did your engine run at all before you changed the pump?

 

[OldMasterTech]

I had an issue that was similar in a class C motorhome with a V10...It lacked power and was surging under load. Turned out to be a bad coil pack.

Ditto, same here - problem worsened after a couple of days to a severe shudder, replaced two coil packs.

 

[dodge man]

So what are you saying Timswi, never pull codes? Its a computer, it spits out info, its up to the person reading it to decide what to do. I've gone to Autozone, had the codes read 2 or 3 times for free, bought the part the scanner said was bad, and fixed it. I will say when having a problem like the OP has, ALWAYS run a scanner on it first. What if he farts around with and fixes a bunch of stuff that wasn't bad, finally runs a scan on it, and some $10 part is bad.

 

[deepNdirt]

Changing out the plugs has been on my "to do" list for awhile now. I have had coil packs go bad but the engine runs smooth and while setting, the throttle reponse is normal.

My oxygen is out for my torch so I decided to cut the pipe behind the cat, gut it out then band clamp it. I will get back on the results later on today.

I thought of another car I had looked at to purchase, when I test drove the car it ran fine and idle and even up to around 35mph, but when trying to reach hwy speed of 55-60 it was a dog, I took it by our local autozone to let them pull a scan code, it wound up being th o2 sensor, I purchased the car at a cheap price because of the way it ran, fixed it for 45.00 and drove it for 3 years, doubled my $$ when I sold it,
I just saying there can be so many things to cause this, It's probably best to run a scan on it before doing allot.

 

[Loadstar]

As far as the cat, I would guess that you'd have to have a poor running motor to wipe one out in the first place. I ran 2 '90's GM 5.7 4x4's for over 200k miles and never had a problem with a cat...Prior to those, I'd buy GM cars with 100k or so and drive them to 140k and never replaced one on those either...The only cat failure I had to figure out belonged to someone else and that thing was running terrible for a long time due to complete neglect. Not sure that the OP falls into that category.

Not always, when a cat con chokes up in our fleet vehicles it is usually our slow and easy drivers. All of the vehicles are maintained the same. Had one clog at 50k.

 

[QRTRHRS]

It was already dark until I got time to work on the truck. I polished up the pipe behind the cat with my grinder and a wire wheel then cut it off leaving just enough room for the band clamp. I had mentioned possibly using my torch to break the pipe about two feet back where it goes into the muffler. That certainly would not have worked.

I found at least three baseball sized pieces of ceramic rolling around in there. Being fairly round, I figure that the last one would roll to the outlet and chock it off. I had not thought about how hard it would be to break this stuff up though I have worked with ceramics. I have gathered an assortment of long tools including a three foot point for my jack hammer. The ceramic "balls" don't want to cooperate at all but I am making headway. Everything is iced up so I would not have wanted to take the truck out anyway.

It sure would be easier just to cut the cat out and put a pipe in but when I get done at least it will look somewhat stock other than the new band clamp.

 

[timswi]

So what are you saying Timswi, never pull codes? Its a computer, it spits out info, its up to the person reading it to decide what to do. I've gone to Autozone, had the codes read 2 or 3 times for free, bought the part the scanner said was bad, and fixed it. I will say when having a problem like the OP has, ALWAYS run a scanner on it first. What if he farts around with and fixes a bunch of stuff that wasn't bad, finally runs a scan on it, and some $10 part is bad.

I didn't say don't pull the codes. The mechanic up the road said that the codes thrown by the ECM on Fords can be deceiving (he maintains a fleet of Ford trucks for a large HVAC company). He told me that the OBDII codes on a $200 scanner can send you down the wrong path. The Snap-On's and whatever the dealers use give a more complete picture...I used my scanner to diagnose my Ford and it only showed lean, no misfires when there definitely was one.

 

[QRTRHRS]

It was the cat. Using a shop vac and a piece of wire I was able to pull the heavier pieces to the rear where I could get on them with a pry bar with an angled tip. A little pressure and they would break into small enough pieces to get through the pipe. I also started the engine a few times to blow the debris out that the shop vac was not able to remove.

I also went ahead and replaced the fuel and air filters before I took it out for a spin. Usually I would have tested it with the cat gutted first then changed the filters but it was getting late. I did not push the cold engine to hard but the truck did take a couple hills just fine.

So, the plan is now to get the truck on a computer in the next few weeks and at the least put in new plugs.

Thanks for all of the suggestions.

 

[Loadstar]

Good to hear.