Factory triple remote install

[C4Ranch]

Got all the parts Friday and have "bench" assembled the major components, ready to drop into the L5240 cab next weekend.

Below is a pic of everything ready to go. I shopped 4 different dealers (2 often mentioned here, one didn't reply) and 2 others I've dealt with. Prices varied by several hundred. Best deal was local at just under $1.9k. Wanted a clean install so no real options. You can see quite a lot of pieces went into engineering the linkage.

 

[wmonroe]

I also have a 5240 but with no cab and only 2 remotes, if you need pics of anything to help with the install let me know. Do you have uses for all three remotes or are you just setting them up in case?

 

[C4Ranch]

Thanks!! So far, everything went together easily. Instructions would have been more helpful if they detailed which pm went with each bolt, washer, oring, etc. but I just spread it all out on the kitchen table and with a cup of coffee and the process of deduction it reminded me of my erector set when I was a boy.
Really the only things left are figuring out best way to remove a loaded tire and accessing inside the cab.
As for using all 3, I've got a TNT being built so that will use 2 almost full time. And this is waiting for the 3rd. 76" Gannon with hydraulic scarfers.

 

[flusher]

$1.9K--wow, talk about sticker shock.
When I bought my new 2008 Mahindra 5525 in March 2008, I had the dealer install triple rear remotes (his design). Cost: $750.



It's always more cost effective to bundle extras like this as part of the deal for the tractor.

Good luck.

 

[C4Ranch]

Yep, I've not found anything with the name Kubota to be cheap yet

I got the tractor used so didn't have the opportunity to order it with them.

They average out to a little over $600 ea. I could have got away with 2 but figured while I had it all apart to go ahead and fill it up. Nothing would make me more frustrated to tear it all apart and add another later. Looks to be twice the work vs doing it all the first time.

 

[k0ua]

If I ever add more remotes. ( and I probably will some day) I am going to go the stackable Electric over Hydraulic route. You start with one factory remote and one control lever, add the valves in a stack, and a 4 position rotary switch (or one of the multiswitch joystick controllers) and have a total of 4 remotes for under $1000. I have already sourced out the parts and pricing from the manufacture. And you can do it in stages if you don't have all the money upfront. You wind up with just one SCV control lever, but do you need more than one? You can switch the switch to control your top, then to control your tilt, and then to control your angle of say a blade, and I would have the pass thru position go to my front for my grapple.. All with one lever and an a simple switch, with the valves in a row on the back of my crossbar just above the present stock QC connectors. It is all just an idea in my head at this point, but maybe someday it will be a build thread.

 

[C4Ranch]

That's a good setup. I'm a fan of self design. Will you be able to control float on 2 different valves too?

I have 2 float valves so I can have my ground engaging implements always follow the ground by floating top and side links and be able to quickly pop out of float to raise and turn the drop right back into float by slamming down my 3pt and the 1st 2 remotes. I also wanted to maintain the factory finish.

 

[k0ua]

That's a good setup. I'm a fan of self design. Will you be able to control float too?

I have 2 float valves so I can have my ground engaging implements always follow the ground and be able to quickly pop out of float to raise and turn the drop right back into float by slamming down my 3pt and the 1st 2 remotes. I also wanted to maintain the factory finish.

No float because my Kioti valve does not have float, but on your Kubota if you had one original SCV that had float then your multiplied valves would have it too.

 

[DT86]

Loaded tires aren't too bad to man handle on pavement or concrete. If you don't think you want to try it and have access to another tractor with pallet forks that is a good option.

That is a serious blade you have, looking forward to seeing it all together.

 

[The Fred]

Thanks!! So far, everything went together easily. Instructions would have been more helpful if they detailed which pm went with each bolt, washer, oring, etc. but I just spread it all out on the kitchen table and with a cup of coffee and the process of deduction it reminded me of my erector set when I was a boy.
Really the only things left are figuring out best way to remove a loaded tire and accessing inside the cab.
As for using all 3, I've got a TNT being built so that will use 2 almost full time. And this is waiting for the 3rd. 76" Gannon with hydraulic scarfers.

I use an engine hoist and rugged strap to remove my tires, first remove the outer fender (4 bolts).

Fred

 

[J_J]

Got all the parts Friday and have "bench" assembled the major components, ready to drop into the L5240 cab next weekend.

Below is a pic of everything ready to go. I shopped 4 different dealers (2 often mentioned here, one didn't reply) and 2 others I've dealt with. Prices varied by several hundred. Best deal was local at just under $1.9k. Wanted a clean install so no real options. You can see quite a lot of pieces went into engineering the linkage.

I probably should not say this but I am.

I am amazed at that price you paid, but it is your money.

I don't know where you shopped, and if you did shop far and wide, but a simple search on Surplus, would have shown this Prince stack valve with two float spools and a spring center valve spool.

Surplus Center

Anyway, I wish you success in your endeavor, and that everything works to your expectations.

 

[C4Ranch]

Don't get me wrong gents, if I had an open station I would have built this setup for much less.

 

[The Fred]

No harm meant JJ but with a cab model it would be a clustermuk to set up 3 remotes obamatized like that.
Next time I do it I will have all 3 with float detent that's the cat's meow because you never know what you will be doing with it.
I have a dumper trailer with a single hose and using the remote with the float let's it come down nicely otherwise you are on the relief valve with the other 2 remotes. You're gonna LOVE those 3 remotes I use all 3 on my snowblower.

Regards, Fred

 

[ringo5]

If I ever add more remotes. ( and I probably will some day) I am going to go the stackable Electric over Hydraulic route. You start with one factory remote and one control lever, add the valves in a stack, and a 4 position rotary switch (or one of the multiswitch joystick controllers) and have a total of 4 remotes for under $1000. I have already sourced out the parts and pricing from the manufacture. And you can do it in stages if you don't have all the money upfront. You wind up with just one SCV control lever, but do you need more than one? You can switch the switch to control your top, then to control your tilt, and then to control your angle of say a blade, and I would have the pass thru position go to my front for my grapple.. All with one lever and an a simple switch, with the valves in a row on the back of my crossbar just above the present stock QC connectors. It is all just an idea in my head at this point, but maybe someday it will be a build thread.

That sounds like a good route. You got any links or pics for this setup?

 

[paulwestski]

$1.9K--wow, talk about sticker shock.
When I bought my new 2008 Mahindra 5525 in March 2008, I had the dealer install triple rear remotes (his design). Cost: $750.

View attachment 359952View attachment 359953

It's always more cost effective to bundle extras like this as part of the deal for the tractor.

Good luck.

Yeah that fender mount works...
The Kubota remotes are integrated and make for a clean installation.
That's why they cost so much more.

 

[k0ua]

That sounds like a good route. You got any links or pics for this setup?

Fasse Valve - 2010 Consumer

Look on page 17, at the 700-1512-4001.. it is stackable. with O rings between each valve.. and bolts to hold them together. Input of hydraulic fluid on the left and un-energized flow out on the right. and energized flow out the front.

 

[C4Ranch]

Started the install. Got the interior taken apart and rear tire off. Interior was a snap. Removing the loaded tire was the hardest thing, thankfully I didn't bugger up the threads on the 2 studs too badly.

Will finish up next time I'm out there. Weather was too nice, hit 75 degrees so my 7 & 9 yr olds and I broke out the clay pigeon thrower and 20ga!

Here are a few pics. Already had the lever bracket and it's awfully nice of them to have an access panel inside the fender.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

+

That sounds like a good route. You got any links or pics for this setup?

Here ya go.

 

[ringo5]

+

Here ya go.

Thanks Brian. That looks like what I am looking for, a nice clean install that looks like it belongs! :thumbsup::thumbsup:

Any pics of that selector switch setup installed that allows you to select the different valves? I like the joystick idea for the front remotes as I am going with a dual cylinder grapple bucket up there but maybe the selector switch setup for rear TNT control and control an extra remote for the rear. I guess I could run two joysticks though. One mounted on the bucket control valve arm for grapple and then another on on the rear 3PT lift arm next to the seat? Sound like a good setup or would one joystick for grapple and then selector switch for rear remotes be a better route?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Thanks Brian. That looks like what I am looking for, a nice clean install that looks like it belongs! :thumbsup::thumbsup:

Any pics of that selector switch setup installed that allows you to select the different valves? I like the joystick idea for the front remotes as I am going with a dual cylinder grapple bucket up there but maybe the selector switch setup for rear TNT control and control an extra remote for the rear. I guess I could run two joysticks though. One mounted on the bucket control valve arm for grapple and then another on on the rear 3PT lift arm next to the seat? Sound like a good setup or would one joystick for grapple and then selector switch for rear remotes be a better route?

If you look at the gray control grip, it is mounted on the OEM rear remote lever. This way the control switches are located in the grip of the control lever that is used to make any rear remote adjustments, just as they normally are with the FEL systems. You activate the unit that you need control of and move the rear remote lever just as you would if you were controlling any other rear remote. The only difference is that you always use the same lever no matter which cylinder needs to be adjusted.

You understand that I have an OEM rear remote on this tractor, right?? :confused3:

Very simple, very clean.

Here is the tractor with both control grips installed. The black grip is on the loader joystick and has a single button switch. The gray control grip is on the OEM rear remote lever, it has 3 switches, (2 buttons and 1 trigger). Scroll to the bottom to see both control grips. :thumbsup: