Grounding Rod For Portable Generators Necessary?

   / Grounding Rod For Portable Generators Necessary? #41  
Running a generator without a ground works 99.999 percent of the time. That other .001 percent can be fatal. You can ground to your house copper plumbing if your close, you can drive a piece of copper or even a piece of rebar into the ground in most areas there is enough moisture in the ground (if not add some) to give a better ground that you!!!
 
   / Grounding Rod For Portable Generators Necessary? #42  
if your running a 4 wire feed to the house, your tying into the houses existing grounding system. thats why portable units dont require them.
 
   / Grounding Rod For Portable Generators Necessary? #43  
A note to those who power their houses with a portable when the power goes out: to protect the guys and gals who come out in that storm to get your power back on for you, you must break all three legs between the house and the transformer. If you think that just flipping the main breaker protects the outgoing lines, you are wrong. You can give shocks out there in the world by current feeding into the neutral lead.
Wow, it's hard to believe that the linemen would get a shock of the neutral seeing how the neutral is bonded to ground (earth/ O volts) at your panel and the utility's transformer, and there is no neutral on the primary lines. The way I dealt with it is, I power only two light and outlet circuits when the power is down for extended periods. I don't run my shop, heat, or refrigerate with the portable. I do run all my lights and electronics (don't want to miss the big game).

What I did was connect the two circuits' romex to a split duplex outlet next to my breaker box. I put three pronged plugs on each of the romexes going on to those two circuits. They are plugged into that duplex under normal circumstances. When I'm on the generator, I pull the two light/outlet circuit plugs from the temporarily dead house power duplex, and plug them into a ganged duplex on the cable coming in from the generator. Under these conditions, I'm relying on the genset's own breakers. So, these two circuit's neutrals and ground conductors are isolated from your panel? So the ground conductor in these circuits are not grounded through a ground rod and the neutral is not bonded to ground anywhere and is floating when running on the genny? This would mean that in a fault, the electricity has no way to get back to the neutral of the genny and fault current may not become excessive enough to trip the breaker, instead it energizes metal parts that should be grounded, but are not, waiting for someone to touch them. Hopefully the neutral of the genny is bonded to the genny's ground. My understanding is that this bond sometimes exists, but may be left up to the owner depending if the have a transfer switch, and what type of switch that is (i.e. is the neutral switched (i.e. "a separately derived system")). If not, it may be a good idea to ground the genny with a ground rod and bond the neutral of the genny to its equipment ground so that the neutral doesn't float and is locked to 0 volts.

Our PUD line folks are great heroes of mine. They get out there in all conditions and at all hours. I don't want them to get any shocks from me. They have told me they appreciate this.

I hope I'm wrong, you should get this checked out before something goes wrong.
 
   / Grounding Rod For Portable Generators Necessary? #44  
The ONLY time you need to use a grounding rod is if the generator is part of a separately derived system AND perminantly mounted.

Separately derived system is the key.
Do you have a transfer switch that switches the neutral? Whether your power comes the utility or a generator you need the neutral bonded to ground. This does 2 things: 1) Pegs the neutral to 0 Volts and not floating. 2) In the event of a fault (short) there is a low resistant path (on the ground) back to the neutral of the transformer (or generator) so that the fault current (of the circuit loop) is high enough to trip the breaker (repeat: You want low resistant loop path that provides a high enough fault current to trip the breaker).

If your (4 wire) transfer switch switches the neutral, you have a separately derived system and need ground rods and bonding of the neutral to the ground at the genny (or transfer switch), otherwise neutral and ground should only be bonded in 1 place only (usually at your panel).
 
   / Grounding Rod For Portable Generators Necessary? #45  
A generator does not have a reference to earth ground unless you create one. That is why a genset in a truck does not create a problem as it does not have that reference. The code describes this as a seperatly derived neutral. If you take a volt meter and test from the hot side of an outlet to a ground rod it will not read any voltage. Utility power depends on the earth reference to provide a safe system. Our local code states grounds for panels are required to be copper clad 10' rods driven full length. If ground potential is not tested and recorded a second ground 10' away is required (the common situation for residential as the second rod is cheaper than the test).

My umbilical cord from the genset to the house includes the green ground wire; that then grounds the generator frame and the neutral to the house grounding system. Neutral and ground are required to have the same ground potential. As far as my code recollection goes a utility/genset transfer switch is not required to be included in the switching. It is not required by the serving utility either. Yes a poor ground connection could feed back on the utility neutral but would be shunted to ground at the firsts transformer. The first thing utility workers during an outage is ground all the conductors before starting work. This is all recollections on my part, you electricians out there correct this dialog once and for ever. I haven't cracked a code book for 5 years now.

Ron
 
   / Grounding Rod For Portable Generators Necessary? #46  
Seem to have stirred up a discussion.

At my furnace when I wired in the plug,

HOT from panel was disconnected
NEUTRAL from panel was disconnected
GROUND from panel was CONNECTED

In the panel GROUND AND NEUTRAL are together, the panel is grounded to my incoming water supply just as it exits my house.

My understanding is that with the ground connection above, that the whole generator system is grounded and any short/failure will dissipate through the ground--no backfeed potential.
 
   / Grounding Rod For Portable Generators Necessary? #47  
Okay, here s the way mine is done.
Genny is a neutral bonded set. I've got a 6' piece of copper pipe pounded into the ground, the 4 wire 30 amp connector from the genny goes into the house and stops at a DPDT (double pole double throw) transfer switch. When the power (hydro) is off I power my well pump off the genny. The hydro goes into the top half of the transfer switch and on through to the pump (which is protected by it own double fuse [15 amp] beside the tank) (220 V) this is a sub panel off the main. The genny feeds into the other half of the transfer switch and on to the well pump as well. [Switch in the up position and only hydro is feeding the pump]{switch in the down position and the genny is feeding the pump} After all that, I have 3 separate fused switch boxes that the genny ONLY feeds and they are connected to 3 duplex outlets and everything else (fridge, sump pump, lights, fan for woodstove, and a computer or two {through APC battery backups} runs off them via extension cords.

Is there anything 'wrong' with this setup?
 
   / Grounding Rod For Portable Generators Necessary? #48  
My umbilical cord from the genset to the house includes the green ground wire; that then grounds the generator frame and the neutral to the house grounding system. Neutral and ground are required to have the same ground potential. As far as my code recollection goes a utility/genset transfer switch is not required to have the neutral and ground included in the switching. It is not required by the serving utility either. Yes a poor ground connection could feed back on the utility neutral but would be shunted to ground at the first transformer. The first thing utility workers during an outage is ground all the conductors before starting work. This is all recollections on my part, you electricians out there correct this dialog once and for ever. I haven't cracked a code book for 5 years now.

Ron

Sorry guys I screwed up that second paragraph. The red is what I left out.

Ron
 
   / Grounding Rod For Portable Generators Necessary? #49  
here in the USA its hard to find a whole house transfer switch that switches the neutral. theres some after market 30 amp units, but not on the 200 and 400 amp residential units that i have installed. I guess that some countries require the neutral to be switched, but the NEC doesnt require it of us.

Ive been installing these inspected and passed UL approved systems for nearly 20 years of my career. Im not a lineman and have no knowledge whats at the top of the pole, but i was under the assumption that every pole mounted transformer has a solid copper wire stapled to the pole and embedded to the depth of the pole. this is what establishes the neutral at the transformer as we use mostly grounded wye systems up here. So any power sent back up the neutral would be grounded out. thats why theres not the need to separate the neutral. Some countries have open neutral sysrems that arnt grounded to the transformer case. those i could see an issue.
 
   / Grounding Rod For Portable Generators Necessary? #50  
Does the grounding of generators have anything to do with these straps I see dragging the ground on a lot of welding trucks? And if so why don't all of them have them?
 
   / Grounding Rod For Portable Generators Necessary? #51  
We were on generator power last spring and using a small 3000 watt generator. My wife was using an expensive sewing machine and it fried the circuit board. I always wondered if it was because there was no ground. :confused:

No. But power quality could have been an issue.

jonyyuma, do you think using a good surge protector would protect a LCD tv while using a generator?
I used a generator a few years ago when our electricity was out and powered our old tv on it. But I'm kind of reluctant to try our new tv on one without some sort of protection.
It seems that a lot of things have some sort of computer or electronics on them anymore.

BTW, are you "panther quick and leather tough" as the song goes? :laughing:

A surge protector protects only against large voltage spikes. This was probably just an under-voltage/over-voltage condition which would not have mattered.

The ground the owners manual calls for is most likely for a case ground. Should the generator develop an internal fault it could hot up the generator case and frame and you could shock yourself by touching the unit if it was faulted so.

Its not needed for generation of power. It's an operator safety concern.

A portable generator has its neutral and ground bonded together. Should a fault develop, the breaker should trip.

For computers, TVs, and the delicate stuff its better to buy an inverter generator. When our power goes out the generator powers the two fridges, freezer, well pump, pellet stove, electric skillets, and some lights. No TVs, computers or delicate stuff. Ours isn't an inverter generator.

A true sine wave inverter generator is the best quality, a modified/square is not much different than a portable generator. But electronics like computers/TVs/etc. are not sensitive to their power input and are safe on just about any portable generator.

If you want your UPS or line conditioner to be fully functional, you MUST have a good ground. --> Ground Rod

The more expensive UPS will have indicator lights or status displays for ground faults.

A UPS, power conditioner, etc. does not need the ground for working in any manner other than the safety it provides.

The purpose of the ground rod is to prevent there from being any difference in potential between the grounded generator output conductors and the Earth ground. Typically the grounded generator conductor is also bonded to the generator frame. That being the case, if your alternator had some problem in the windings and the genset frame was not connected to the Earth ground by a grounding electrode of some type you might see a higher voltage between an ungrounded generator output conductor and the Earth ground than between an ungrounded generator output conductor and the grounded generator output conductor. The difference in potential would be realized when you touch the generator frame with your bare hand while touching the Earth with your feet. You would become a better path to ground.....zzzzt. If you drive a ground rod and connect it to the genset frame that is already connected to the grounded generator output conductor you have bonded the frame to the Earth so there can exist no difference in potential between them. I am not an engineer but I cannot see this having any effect on breaker or ground-fault circuit interrupting devices. The breakers are tripping based on instantaneous or long term current wherever it goes and the GFCID's are measuring how much current goes out from the ungrounded conductor and how much comes back in on the grounded conductor and tripping when the difference reaches a setpoint of x milliamps. Remember the ungrounded conductor is the hot one, the grounded conductor is the return and the grounding conductor is used to bond conductive materials to the grounded conductor at the electrical service entrance to prevent your stove or dryer or refrigerator shell etc from becoming energized due to an ungrounded conductor coming into contact with it. If contact is made a short-circuit will result in a blown fuse or tripped breaker instead of the metal shell setting there energized and waiting for you to complete the circuit by touching it with one hand while your bare feet are on your concrete floor. Gotta Love it!

There's a ton of mis-information and confusion about what the ground rods in a home actually do and their primary purpose. The grounding conductors up to the main panel (or meter base, generator or wherever the ground and neutral bond exists) are for clearing shorts, typically with metal appliances. If the neutral and ground are bonded and the case of the appliance becomes hot due to an internal short, the current travels back on the ground conductor (otherwise unused) and trips the breaker. A connection to EARTH ground would be of too high resistance to clear these faults.

GFI/GFCI devices as you said do NOT need the ground to operate whatsoever. This is one of the reason they are used to add safety to older 2-wire receptacle locations without grounds present. Without the ground, your washing machine housing could become and remain electrified, however plugged into a GFCI receptacle (despite having NO ground connection) when you touched the machine, the current would be interrupted in time by the ground fault (the fact that current is traveling through you and returning somewhere else other than the neutral) before damage was done.

Past the ground/neutral bonding, the ground rods themselves are NOT to equalize voltage potential, return current via the earth or anything else. Their primary purpose is lightning dissipation. WITH a ground rod and a fault with a portable generator, there is actually a higher risk for shock as it's introduced a new "hot" area immediately around the generator in addition to the frame, so ground rods are NOT required nor recommended on portable generators with the neutral/ground bond in place (almost all of them). The NEC does not actually apply to portable generator use outside of where the NEC applies (when you connect it to a building, basically) but for personal protection the OSHA guide is a good reference.

In summary: for portable generator use (as a portable), it is not a safety advantage and maybe even a disadvantage to drive a ground rod. Do use the GFCI receptacles (required on generators that bond the neutral/ground and over 5kw anyway!) as they provide a large margin of added safety.
 
   / Grounding Rod For Portable Generators Necessary? #52  
I'm building a trailer for a Hobart Champion 10,000 welder generator now. Should I ground it while its on the trailer?
 
   / Grounding Rod For Portable Generators Necessary? #53  
My current generator has over 3000 hours on it powering my portable office trailer that contains over 100k of computers. I have never used a ground rod. The generator is an inverter and I have a heavy duty battery back up system in the trailer.

This would be a good time to quit trusting your luck and drive in a 10ft ground rod. Trailer chassis and generator chassis should be "earthed".
 
   / Grounding Rod For Portable Generators Necessary? #54  
A note to those who power their houses with a portable when the power goes out: to protect the guys and gals who come out in that storm to get your power back on for you, you must break all three legs between the house and the transformer. If you think that just flipping the main breaker protects the outgoing lines, you are wrong. You can give shocks out there in the world by current feeding into the neutral lead.



The way I dealt with it is, I power only two light and outlet circuits when the power is down for extended periods. I don't run my shop, heat, or refrigerate with the portable. I do run all my lights and electronics (don't want to miss the big game).

What I did was connect the two circuits' romex to a split duplex outlet next to my breaker box. I put three pronged plugs on each of the romexes going on to those two circuits. They are plugged into that duplex under normal circumstances. When I'm on the generator, I pull the two light/outlet circuit plugs from the temporarily dead house power duplex, and plug them into a ganged duplex on the cable coming in from the generator. Under these conditions, I'm relying on the genset's own breakers.

Our PUD line folks are great heroes of mine. They get out there in all conditions and at all hours. I don't want them to get any shocks from me. They have told me they appreciate this.

Depends if your genset has a floating or bonded neutral.

As for gen sets used temporary beside the house. Why drive a ground rod when there is already supposed to be two ground rods at the service entrance ? Just tie to them.
 
   / Grounding Rod For Portable Generators Necessary? #57  
Amazing how many people just willy nilly disregard code and safety issues " because they've done it for years"

The biggest reason - Insurance snakes. They want to find reasons NOT TO PAY YOU if there is a problem with the generator, or electrical issues. Why NOT do it - takes five minutes to pound the copper in and connect.

Generator Groundig

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=8&ved=0CFsQFjAH&url=http%3A%2F%2Foshaprofessor.com%2FPortable%2520Generators%2520and%2520OSHA%2520Construction%2520Standards%25203-05.pdf&ei=UMgNU4D3IcWqkAfDoYHABg&usg=AFQjCNG8iZYSWHtJaQpazbVBRFNgnrivXg&bvm=bv.61965928,d.eW0
 
   / Grounding Rod For Portable Generators Necessary? #58  
250.34 Portable and Vehicle Mounted Generators

(A) Portable Generators. The frame of a portable generator shall not be required to be connected to a grounding electrode as defined in 250.52 for a system supplied by the generator under the following conditions:

1) The generator supplies only equipment mounted on the generator, cord and plug connected equipment through receptacles mounted on the generator, or both and

2) The normally non current carrying metal parts of the equipment and the equipment grounding conductor terminals of the receptacles are connected to the generator frame.
 
   / Grounding Rod For Portable Generators Necessary? #59  
Amazing how many people just willy nilly disregard code and safety issues " because they've done it for years"

The biggest reason - Insurance snakes. They want to find reasons NOT TO PAY YOU if there is a problem with the generator, or electrical issues. Why NOT do it - takes five minutes to pound the copper in and connect.

You've missed it. Not only does code NOT require it for portable generators used as portable generators or under additional conditions, it is NOT RECOMMENDED for the very reason of safety issues - it can be LESS SAFE having a grounding rod.

An insurance company will not decline or not decline coverage or even attempt to based on the lack of a ground rod. Junk assumptions like this do nobody any good.
 
   / Grounding Rod For Portable Generators Necessary? #60  
Past the ground/neutral bonding, the ground rods themselves are NOT to equalize voltage potential, return current via the earth or anything else. Their primary purpose is lightning dissipation. WITH a ground rod and a fault with a portable generator, there is actually a higher risk for shock as it's introduced a new "hot" area immediately around the generator in addition to the frame, so ground rods are NOT required nor recommended on portable generators with the neutral/ground bond in place (almost all of them). The NEC does not actually apply to portable generator use outside of where the NEC applies (when you connect it to a building, basically) but for personal protection the OSHA guide is a good reference.

In summary: for portable generator use (as a portable), it is not a safety advantage and maybe even a disadvantage to drive a ground rod. Do use the GFCI receptacles (required on generators that bond the neutral/ground and over 5kw anyway!) as they provide a large margin of added safety.

Grounding rods are not there to establish the lowest voltage potential between any metallic objects attached to the house ground system and earth ground? Since when is that not the main reason for them? Have you ever measured the voltage difference between earth ground and the building ground system? There is test equipment (that I have) that is specifically designed to measure this and determine whether the ground system is functioning correctly. There would be no purpose of the grounding system in the case of a wet basement floor or carport, in the case where a metal item becomes electrified through a fault in the insulation, if the ground wasn't at the same voltage potential as earth ground.
 

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