Newbie looking for 1st welder

[mikefromnh]

I am looking to get a stick welder to learn with... Been thinking about the the everlast powerarc 160 or 200.


But then started looking at the 3in1's and multi process welders. And have confused myself as to what I want/need.

To make matters worse I now realize the everlast imig 200 also stick welds. So my question -- is the stick capability of the imig any better, worse or different then the powerarc 160???

I want to learn stick welding first for around the property stuff, tractor bucket repair/reinforcement and modifications to a log splitter. And later learn mig or tig.

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

YOu can cover all bases then with the MTS 200 or MTS 250S...They are very competent in any mode.
But, I'd recommend starting off with the PA 200ST. You can get stick down, then order the torch and learn DC TIG. The iMIGs actually weld very weld with stick...but I'd start off with a dedicated stick unit. Stay away from the TIG/Stick Plasma units...imho.

 

[Shield Arc]

I've read here on TBN this is the only welder you'll ever need. They build bridges, and skyscrapers with these.

 

[mikefromnh]

Other than the increased amps what does the pa200 offer over the imig200 in stick mode?

 

[k0ua]

I've read here on TBN this is the only welder you'll ever need. They build bridges, and skyscrapers with these.

Shield, I have one of them I will sell ya... and uh... I have a bridge up in NY, I will let go pretty reasonable too!

 

[Mattc8832]

A lincoln 225 which is called a buzz box is a good beginner machine. I don't like SMAW stick welding with AC current.You can look for a Lincoln 225 AC/DC buzz box which would be better. The Everlast looks like a nice machine also. Look at your options. You may want to consider taking a evening Welding class at a local high school or career center in your area.

 

[Shield Arc]

I've also read here on TBN, that there is no need for DC. AC is all that is needed.

 

[mikefromnh]

I've considered the buzz boxes but like the idea of dual voltage/portability. I've been watching for a used ac/dc but everyone wants over 300 for one...which got me thinking about a inverter.

The trouble is each different model adds features for only a little more $$$. I'm not sure which offers the best value for me... I don't want to end up with a bunch of boxes that overlap features and cost more in the end.

There was a new never used mts250 for sale locally for 1/2 of list but I missed out on that one. And it's not dual voltage...

When I built this house I ran a dedicated 10/3 with ground to the garage and another 10/3 line to the back door of the basement because that is what I had left over. So that limits me on welder choices.

 

[IslandTractor]

I've read here on TBN this is the only welder you'll ever need. They build bridges, and skyscrapers with these.

I had one of those but as soon as I finished building the Verrazano Bridge, I sold it and got a 110v MIG machine from HF and have never looked back. Glue guns rule!

 

[Shield Arc]

mikefromnh you realize you're not going to learn how to weld in a week or two? Maybe get the Everlast PowerArc 200, or better yet the PowerArc 300! When you get a handle on SMAW, then buy a Tig rig. Once you learn to use stick and Tig. Learning Mig will be a walk in the park. SMAW, and Tig will teach you how to read the puddle. Once you learn that it all falls right in place pretty quick then.

 

[SSdoxie]

Other than the increased amps what does the pa200 offer over the imig200 in stick mode?

A couple things the PA line has that I don't see on the MTS is 1. Hot Start - What this means to me, is simplicity in getting the arc started. No scratching required, just touch and go. If rod sticks amps are probably set too low.
2. I don't see the E6010 work port on the MTS. I have only had my PA 200 for just under 2 months and not much time to play with it, but have used 6011 rod (about same as 6010 except for AC) and there is a very noticeable difference in running this rod in normal ground negative versus using the E6010 port for the ground port.

Shield Arc recommended the PA 300, he did that to me to when I was trying to decide. The besides more amperage that may never be needed in normal "farm type" repairs, it has adjustable Hot Start and Adjustable Arc force. At first I was leery of getting more gadgets on it that I would need to learn how to run, but after using mine the past 2 weekends I can see where the adjustability could come in handy now and then but still don't think (for my use) it would be worth the extra $ since I don't/won't need that high amperage. The auto Hot Start and Arc Force take care of majority of common uses, so far. With some types of rod the adjustable hot start might come in handy.

 

[SSdoxie]

I've also read here on TBN, that there is no need for DC. AC is all that is needed.

Been there, Done that. No have DC only. I just park all my equipment facing East -West so it doesn't get polarized. :laughing:

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

The MIGs have hot start on stick....The performance is pretty impressive. It's just auto. It burns 6011 very well, better than the 140 in my opinion.

 

[CNC Dan]

....
But, I'd recommend starting off with the PA 200ST. You can get stick down, then order the torch and learn DC TIG.....

I 2nd this. The PA200ST is dual voltage so you can run it on 120 volts if you need to (up to about 90 amps output). Add a TIG torch to work on thinner steel.

And as far as getting an all in one machine or several machines, I would go for the multiple option. With several machines, you can have them in diferent locations, and you can build up your capabilities over time, rather than a large purchase.

 

[IslandTractor]

I've considered the buzz boxes but like the idea of dual voltage/portability. I've been watching for a used ac/dc but everyone wants over 300 for one...which got me thinking about a inverter.

The trouble is each different model adds features for only a little more $$$. I'm not sure which offers the best value for me... I don't want to end up with a bunch of boxes that overlap features and cost more in the end.

There was a new never used mts250 for sale locally for 1/2 of list but I missed out on that one. And it's not dual voltage...

Unless you are setting up in a shop with a dedicated 220 volt line for welding, a dual volt inverter machine is very useful. Everlast makes a couple and I have owned a couple of different Miller Maxstars, a Passport and now a Multimatic. I use both voltages and find it incredibly useful. I am not working primarily in dedicated welding shop where dual voltage would be superfluous but do use both household current, dryer outlets (with adapter pigtail) and 6000watt generator.

As you noted, for some reason I do not understand, the very limited Lincoln buzz boxes hold their value very well so it can cost $300 for a used AC/DC ( I sold one for that price range). For just a bit more money you can get a used Maxstar 150S or a similar Thermal Dynamics setup. For about the same cost as the buzz box you can get something like an Everlast or Longevity.

 

[wpala]

Hi
I bought a Miller 211MVP (Multi Voltage Plug) would highly recommend not cheap but quality machine with very consistent welds very happy with it

Paul

 

[flusher]

Still confused after the first 20 or so posts in this thread? If so, then just get yourself an AC/DC stick welder (mine is a Hobart Stickmate LX AC/DC rig, $400 at Tractor Supply). Get 5 lb boxes of 6010 and 7018 and start welding. 6010 for first pass beads (high penetration, large arc force). 7018 for capping passes. Learn to hold the arc gap correctly, watch the puddle not the arc, take your time, don't rush along the bead, learn to adjust the current to get proper tie in between the edge of the puddle and the base metal. Figure that after you burn the first 100 lb of rod, you'll have made most of the welding mistakes and will be able to run a pretty good weld bead.

Good luck.

 

[IslandTractor]

Still confused after the first 20 or so posts in this thread? If so, then just get yourself an AC/DC stick welder (mine is a Hobart Stickmate LX AC/DC rig, $400 at Tractor Supply). Get 5 lb boxes of 6010 and 7018 and start welding. 6010 for first pass beads (high penetration, large arc force). 7018 for capping passes. Learn to hold the arc gap correctly, watch the puddle not the arc, take your time, don't rush along the bead, learn to adjust the current to get proper tie in between the edge of the puddle and the base metal. Figure that after you burn the first 100 lb of rod, you'll have made most of the welding mistakes and will be able to run a pretty good weld bead.

Good luck.

"Watch the puddle not the arc". Easy for you to say.... I think that is the single trickiest part of learning to weld. Learning to ignore the arc and look through it for a "puddle" that you've never seen before is a challenge. I think it is similar to the challenge of a traveller arriving by car in a completely different place for the first time. So much is new that (in the pre GPS era) it is sometimes just hard to get oriented and drive purposefully towards your destination.

Puddle, puddle, puddle. That is really all a newbie should focus on for the first several pounds of rod IMO. Worry about penetration, angle, drag speed etc etc later. Learn to see the puddle first. Learn to control the puddle next. After that it is just a matter of knowing what you want the puddle to do for you in a particular welding situation.

 

[ishiboo]

Hi
I bought a Miller 211MVP (Multi Voltage Plug) would highly recommend not cheap but quality machine with very consistent welds very happy with it

Paul

I would second this recommendation. I borrowed a 211MVP before I bought my 252, very capable and portable machine. Predictable sales, service and support from Miller.

Bit more money but it will last you forever. Some Lowes also have the Mig 180s on significant clearance (ours was $350, almost bought it as a "borrow out" machine but when I went to take it they couldn't find the box with the gun/etc.) sitting around, which would be a nice machine as well.

Mark@Everlast - I emailed you 10 days ago for a quote on a TIG/Plasma purchase and never heard back, not sure if you missed the email or just don't like me from our spirited discussions?

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

Either something happened in delivery, or it went to my spam folder which occasionally happens if it was emailed to me. I get several hundred emails a week at times. I'll go back and look and try to find it and reply.