YANMAR front right hub/ wheel wont turn? 2210BD. Looking for some advise?

[RUMBLON]

Before I ever used it, I drained everything and serviced it. Put new oils in everything here. here is the thread http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/yanmar/304679-new-2-me-yanmar-2210-a.html

Yes the retaining ring is beat up. Hoye says thats very common. Apparently there is a special wrench that needed to install it.

 

[winston1]

Winston Im in Idaho, an hour plus north of Boise. A recent escapee of Northern Nevada.

Ok you asking how the remaining wheel feels now that its in the air? And yes it did seem when I initially looked at it that one gap was wider than the other on the hub from side to side but that seemed slight and changed after I leveled the tractor.
Aaron from Hoye said some times small pieces will get caught between the gears and when you take it apart it clears them. So Im debating putting it back together and refilling it and seeing if its fixed or do you think I should take the beveled upper apart and see what up inside that first. Then the poster above 5030 mentioned that one of my parts looks like its the wrong part or something so maybe I should figure that out and order it after I figure out the rest.

I just went out and checked the GOOD WHEEL/ HUB. In 2x4 it spins freely. In 2x4 in neutral it will not spin.
RUMBLON



RUMBLON

I don't guess I will drive up to Idaho to take a look.

"In 2x4 it spins freely. In 2x4 in neutral it will not spin" Don't understand this?? It should spin no matter where the shift lever is with both front wheels off the ground. If not you may have differential problem.

 

[RUMBLON]

I don't guess I will drive up to Idaho to take a look.

"In 2x4 it spins freely. In 2x4 in neutral it will not spin" Don't understand this?? It should spin no matter where the shift lever is with both front wheels off the ground. If not you may have differential problem.

Ok maybe I stated this incorrectly. In 2x4 it spins freely when in any gear. It will not spin when the 4x4 is engaged. Winston are ya sure you don't want to drive here?(JUST KIDDING) BUT I HAVE ELK close by and deer and antelope every where. I hear Texans love to hunt.

Ok, no shop lights yet so I guess its martini time, (two garlic stuffed olives and two onions, shaken not stirred) I have good light until the clouds came out.

 

[winston1]

Ok maybe I stated this incorrectly. In 2x4 it spins freely when in any gear. It will not spin when the 4x4 is engaged. Winston are ya sure you don't want to drive here?(JUST KIDDING) BUT I HAVE ELK close by and deer and antelope every where. I hear Texans love to hunt.

Ok, no shop lights yet so I guess its martini time, (two garlic stuffed olives and two onions, shaken not stirred) I have good light until the clouds came out.

It should turn in or out of gear with both wheels up, if not, your differential is locked up.

 

[RUMBLON]

It should turn in or out of gear with both wheels up, if not, your differential is locked up.

Ok, if the front diff is locked up then why does the left side move fine? would they not both be locked up? It does not move when the 4x4 is locked in , when the lever is pulled out.

 

[284 International]

Ok, if the front diff is locked up then why does the left side move fine? would they not both be locked up? It does not move when the 4x4 is locked in , when the lever is pulled out.

The differential will allow you to spin the left wheel as long as it has an "out" that also spins freely. In 2 wheel drive, spinning the wheel is driving the ring gear, spinning the pinion, and the front driveshaft, not being engaged to the transmission, is able to spin freely. In 4wd, the front shaft cannot spin, since it is engaged to the stationary rear tires. That requires the right side axle to spin, which cannot.

In a way, this is a good outcome, because you have now isolated the problem to being outboard of the differential, since the spider gears must be able to spin freely if you can roll the left wheel smoothly.

My two cents: I believe Hoye when they say it is common for that retaining ring to be beaten up. I would be surprised if Yanmar's original factory process yielded that result, however.

If you pulled the final drive gear and stub axle apart from the tractor, and the right axle still won't spin, I would suspect that the trouble is in the top, first set of spindle gears.

 

[RUMBLON]

The differential will allow you to spin the left wheel as long as it has an "out" that also spins freely. In 2 wheel drive, spinning the wheel is driving the ring gear, spinning the pinion, and the front driveshaft, not being engaged to the transmission, is able to spin freely. In 4wd, the front shaft cannot spin, since it is engaged to the stationary rear tires. That requires the right side axle to spin, which cannot.

In a way, this is a good outcome, because you have now isolated the problem to being outboard of the differential, since the spider gears must be able to spin freely if you can roll the left wheel smoothly.
j
My two cents: I believe Hoye when they say it is common for that retaining ring to be beaten up. I would be surprised if Yanmar's original factory process yielded that result, however.

If you pulled the final drive gear and stub axle apart from the tractor, and the right axle still won't spin, I would suspect that the trouble is in the top, first set of spindle gears.

284 international/ Ok thanks and that is where I am at. I have a question, how can I attempt to spin the bad/right side with no hub/ tire rim to turn? I just have this spindle and and a gear sticking out? how do I grab onto this and try and spin it?

Also in 4x4 gears, I can get maybe a 1/4 turn on the left/ good side, which spins the right side a bit but wont go further. It wont turn further and its rough turning it.

So I guess tomorrow I take apart the upper spindle/ or as they call is beveled gear set.

 

[284 International]

...how can I attempt to spin the bad/right side with no hub/ tire rim to turn?

Placing the tractor in 4wd and spinning the left wheel will turn the right axle with the same torque you apply to the wheel, in the opposite direction.

There is a fair amount of "slop" in the front ends, with all the sets of gears. I don't know that there is 1/4 of a turn, but that may not be far off, either.

 

[winston1]

I am thinking if you unbolt the upper knuckle housing from the axle housing you will be able to remove it. I believe the axle is splined and will slide out of the differential bevel gear. You will then be able to see the outer axle bearing and how to disassemble the upper knuckle.

couple of pictures of mine removed and axle removed. Very similiar to yours.

 

[RUMBLON]

OK, so this morning I took the beveled gear off or as I would call it, the upper. The top steering arm is one bolt and the spindle came out attached. Not sure if it was suppose to(?) but it did. That said I then slid off the beveled gear.

The bearings on the spindle rotate fine and it looks ok, except for that shim or spacer at the end with jagged edges.

The gears look fine from what I can see as well. However to take it apart I need to get the snap rings off? I have some cheapo snap ring pliers but no luck and using other thinks didn't work either.

So, I then looked inside and there are two (2) round pieces. See pics. One looks like it used to house bearings? and a similar size metal ring that looks like it went with it? Im not sure if its the bottom of the bearing or what but its obviously rusty and junk? WHAT DO YOU GUYS THINK?

So In reading the manual it says when putting it back together, its more intricate? Since I dont know what Im doing and don't have the tools, I was wondering if at this point, I am better off sending this beveled gear and spindle to HOYE and having them rebuild them correctly?

The goal here is to save as much money as possible now that I am living on a pension the fraction of what I used to make but this little tractor is going to be my bread an butter come spring. Im not sure what they would charge me but if they can use my gears, which I am sure they can unless there is something I cant see, then they would just be putting in new bearings and correctly add the spacer is talks about ect. Or, is this something I can do here if I go buy a few tools?

In any case. here are the pics. There was some serious sludge in here and when I overfilled the front diff, I used the bolt on the other side. This side has the filler dipstick bolt which will help.

Looking at the parts that came off of that spindle when it slid out, do you think that was my problem?

Thanks Dave

BEVELED GEAR HOUSING



REMOVED SPINDLE CAME OUT WITH STEERING ARM?


OTHER SIDE


GEAR LOOKS GOOD FROM OUTSIDE.




PICS FROM THE BOTTOM INTO THE INTERIOR SHOWING WHAT I THINK IS A DESTROYED BEARING BUT ---NO BEARINGS ANY WHERE? AM I WRONG.







FLIPPED IT OVER AND YOU CAN SEE IT BETTER.






MY CRAPPY SNAP RING PLIERS IF THAT WHAT THEY EVEN ARE.

 

[winston1]

You have found your lockup. That is the bearing ball retainer wrapped up in there. That bearing has to be replace. Bearings are not super expensive. You really need a thorough clean up and replace all the the bearings in what you have disassembled. That is bearing #59 on Hoye's drawing. The inner race of the bearing is still on the upper spindle shaft right below the steering arm. Yanmar Tractor Parts: 4WD INTERNAL

Looked up my invoice from Hoye back in 6-13-13 and I purchased $194 worth of parts which included knuckle seals, bearings, seals, etc. Mine was not near as nasty as yours. This was for both sides.

I didn't know Hoye did repair work?

 

[RUMBLON]

You have found your lockup. That is the bearing ball retainer wrapped up in there. That bearing has to be replace. Bearings are not super expensive. You really need a thorough clean up and replace all the the bearings in what you have disassembled. That is bearing #59 on Hoye's drawing. The inner race of the bearing is still on the upper spindle shaft right below the steering arm. Yanmar Tractor Parts: 4WD INTERNAL

Looked up my invoice from Hoye back in 6-13-13 and I purchased $194 worth of parts which included knuckle seals, bearings, seals, etc. Mine was not near as nasty as yours. This was for both sides.

I didn't know Hoye did repair work?

Winston, I thought they did. I have been talking with Aaron on the tech side. he mentioned that they do work there so I don't know if its just stuff brought into their shop or if I can send parts in. Any idea what tools I need to get the snap rings off and take care of it on my own? Did you do this particular fix as well or just to the hub, lower?

I tried like heck to get those rings off to no avail.

Dave

 

[GWKID]

I believe the 2210 is the same.

On my 2210D It is in 4wd with the lever to the back.

 

[winston1]

Winston, I thought they did. I have been talking with Aaron on the tech side. he mentioned that they do work there so I don't know if its just stuff brought into their shop or if I can send parts in. Any idea what tools I need to get the snap rings off and take care of it on my own? Did you do this particular fix as well or just to the hub, lower?

I tried like heck to get those rings off to no avail.

Dave

I will attach the thread of my repairs. I can't tell you for sure what I used to remove the snap rings. Looking back at my pictures it may have been those needle nose pliers. You will probably need a puller too for removing bearings. Sometimes you just have to improvise. If you have experience removing and replacing bearings it shouldn't be to big a task. If you don't have experience it may prove to be difficult.

I imagine with all the crud in there the snap rings are pretty stuck. Sometimes you can get to the end of the snap ring with a punch or screw driver tapping on the eye and get it loosened a little. Maybe get the end out a little and then a screwdriver behind it and work it out.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/yanmar/248436-2002d-4-wheel-drive-spindle.html?highlight=

 

[RUMBLON]

I will attach the thread of my repairs. I can't tell you for sure what I used to remove the snap rings. Looking back at my pictures it may have been those needle nose pliers. You will probably need a puller too for removing bearings. Sometimes you just have to improvise. If you have experience removing and replacing bearings it shouldn't be to big a task. If you don't have experience it may prove to be difficult.

I imagine with all the crud in there the snap rings are pretty stuck. Sometimes you can get to the end of the snap ring with a punch or screw driver tapping on the eye and get it loosened a little. Maybe get the end out a little and then a screwdriver behind it and work it out.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/yanmar/248436-2002d-4-wheel-drive-spindle.html?highlight=

Thats the thing, I don't own a puller or a press. I will wait till monday to see what Hoye says to see if they even do that kinda work or not. I may end going to some place local to see if they can do part of it. And since I am new here that will be fun finding someone decent whos not going to charge a fortune.

Dave

 

[winston1]

Wonder what shipping on those parts would be? They are pretty heavy.

 

[RUMBLON]

Wonder what shipping on those parts would be? They are pretty heavy.

I don't know. To be honest, Im not going to touch the "FINAL GEAR ASSEMBLY" EXCEPT FOR NEW GASKETS. I can spin it freely and it will make a couple of rotations like a fax blade so its fine and easy to remove later if need be. I think I should worry about the bad BEVELED gear assembly and for caution sake remove the other one as well and do it as well. So those parts are much lighter than the big heavy FINAL GEAR ASSEMBLIES. I can clean it all out while in both sides. The axle housing interiors look fine too and the drive line looks fine. So if I had the beveled gears and splines done, that would be my priority unless I see issues in the other final gear case.


I will wait and see what Hoye has to say tomorrow. They may be too expensive anyway and I may have to try and find a local guy I can work with and if I source all the parts and just take a shop with a press ect the tools and diagrams ect I may be able to do it that way.

DAVE

 

[RUMBLON]

Wonder what shipping on those parts would be? They are pretty heavy.

Hey Winston or others, while I have this rig down, I have an issue I HATE idiot lights and especially on the TEMP. Has anyone done a gauge conversion or is there a kit or gauge for this application and if so, where did you mount your gauge?

I will also buy the clutch for my PTO while its sitting here.

any other needs for these rigs if Im ordering stuff from Hoye. I may have a buyer for an old vintage gas pump I restored so if that goes through I will put a few bucks into this rig. I have to be ready for gardening season.

 

[bmaverick]

Hey Winston or others, while I have this rig down, ...

I've just gotten keen on this tread and skimmed through it some. I'm not even sure what state you are in or located.

Being here in Nashville, I took order of a restored Yanmar YM2610 from Fredricks Equipment early this year. It comes with a 1-year warranty. Last Friday I trailered it 3-hours to Decatur, AL. They have an awesome setup and took me right away. This is not a mom-n-pop setup by any means. It's a fully national facility supporting the US Gray dealerships.

The 4wd parts you are looking for, Fredricks literally has HUNDREDS of them. Their warehouse is huge. Their body shop ran non-stop while I was there. They have a few hundred Yanmars rebuilt/restored and a several hundred waiting to be restored. They have several bays with full time mechanics full staffed with tools, lifts and overhead cranes. There were even a few YM number I had never heard of yet nor even seen. Thus if anyone is looking for a rare part, it could be found.

Now, if you are in TX, then Hoye would be easier to travel. Just PM Aaron if they do any work. I know their website talks about a few tractors rebuilt or repaired.

 

[RUMBLON]

I've just gotten keen on this tread and skimmed through it some. I'm not even sure what state you are in or located.

Being here in Nashville, I took order of a restored Yanmar YM2610 from Fredricks Equipment early this year. It comes with a 1-year warranty. Last Friday I trailered it 3-hours to Decatur, AL. They have an awesome setup and took me right away. This is not a mom-n-pop setup by any means. It's a fully national facility supporting the US Gray dealerships.

The 4wd parts you are looking for, Fredricks literally has HUNDREDS of them. Their warehouse is huge. Their body shop ran non-stop while I was there. They have a few hundred Yanmars rebuilt/restored and a several hundred waiting to be restored. They have several bays with full time mechanics full staffed with tools, lifts and overhead cranes. There were even a few YM number I had never heard of yet nor even seen. Thus if anyone is looking for a rare part, it could be found.

Now, if you are in TX, then Hoye would be easier to travel. Just PM Aaron if they do any work. I know their website talks about a few tractors rebuilt or repaired.

Ok I have to update my profile. Im sitting in Cambridge Idaho, an hour and 15 north of Boise.


Tomorrow I will know more. Today I worked on buildings and now Im going to do this.

Goose martini, two olives, one onion and a cigar!




and