861 diesel problems

[wmonroe]

Call around to local diesel repair shops and see if they will test the injectors for you. From the sounds of it they might be due for a rebuild.

 

[Soundguy]

you.. that thermostat is a common one used in auto's. carquest has it for 4.88

as to your oil line issue. you've doen 100X mor ethan I would have.

the new fitting for the blok and some 1/8 cap line is the real easy fast fix.

Another little tidbit. Before I installed my coolant thermostat and spout to the front of my engine, I had the idea to test it in a pan of boiling water because before I shut this tractor down when I had problems at the beginning of this thread, it seemed to be overheating also (but did not have a temp gauge on the tractor at the time to confirm it). Anyway the old Ford thermostat was closed so I figured the hot water should open it up. It does open, but not until after the water begins boiling. Then after it cools, it would not close again, but was stuck open. (glad I tested it). I figured a thermostat would be a cheap easy fix, but whoa Ford is proud of there thermostats - $40! I finally found a cross over number online to a Slant thermostat #13358 that is supposed to work for $5 that is on order.

 

[MitchellB]

I got the intake and exhaust manifolds on today. There was a bolt on the center of the exhaust that can only be installed at the same time that the intake manifold is put on due to the length of the bolt. I remember it was a bear to take them off. There is also a stud behind the exhaust manifold that holds the intake on (second from the front) on that took me 1/2 day to not only tighten it but I could just barely touch it with one finger because it was under the exhaust manifold. I ended up having to take an old box wrench and grind the head around it was thin enough to fit between the nut and intake casting (like a thin walled socket) before I could ever get a wrench on it.

Motor tested the generator (spun OK) before I put it back on, wired it up and tightened the fan belt.

My new thermostat is installed.

I went ahead and put my oil filter on and filled the crankcase with motor oil too.

Got the tubes casting that the hydraulic pump sits on bolted back on. I think I will wait to make sure I have no issues with the engine running correctly before I install the pump and test the hydraulic system though.

That pesky oil pressure line issue bugs me still. I got my used fleeBay flaring tool today that I was told goes down to 1/8". Well, it just goes down to 3/16" like my other one does. Maybe I can get my money back on that. So I've decided to replace the entire line with the copper line kit that I bought. I got to go Monday to buy an elbow that will take it into the block, but luckily I had a fitting that fit the pressure gauge.

I also found a set of used fuel injectors cheap online today. My plan is between my 4 and these 4 (when they arrive), I should have enough parts be able to make 4 good ones. I got to researching injectors and from what it would cost me to pay someone else test them and maybe clean/repair/replace parts or injectors, I can just buy the pressure hand pump and do it myself. May even be able to get most of my money back if I want to resell the pump later. My book says they are supposed to pop off at 2750 pounds give or take 50 pounds, are supposed to be adjustable and spray in four directions. Well see.

 

[Soundguy]

if yuo get a compression fitting for the block, my advice is to NOT use an elbow.. but a straight one. make a sloping bend from it to the oil gauge. should work fine. Mine do.

 

[MitchellB]

Looks to me like I have to use and elbow at the block. That oil pressure connection is right behind my hydraulic pump. I set my pump on there to be sure and looks like there is a small indention in the back of the pump that is just enough room to fit an elbow pointing to the front of the engine to sit. I don't think a straight connection would fit.

 

[TomSeller]

if yuo get a compression fitting for the block, my advice is to NOT use an elbow.. but a straight one. make a sloping bend from it to the oil gauge. should work fine. Mine do.

What problem was the elbow introducing?

 

[Soundguy]

What problem was the elbow introducing?

2 problems

1, none available locally!

2, hard to take elbow off with pump in the way, not so with straight fitting!

 

[MitchellB]

I got my radiator back on Sunday.

Monday I picked up an elbow at NAPA and some other stuff at Tractor Supply I needed. I finially put a new copper 1/8" oil pressure line on the tractor and filled the transmission with new 80w90.
Today I fabricated me an "old man" step for the left side of my tractor from some scrap I had laying around. My knees don't bend like they used to and this 861 is a couple inches higher than my 8N.


I also cranked the lawn mower today after it has sit over the past week and the battery fired right up good and strong. That trick with the ebsom salt in the battery really did work. I'll have to remember that for future use. Mowed some with it today, mostly just blew/chopped leaves into piles.

 

[wmonroe]

You're getting close now, hopefully soon you'll be enjoying that tractor. On a side note if you ever want to get rid of those rear pie weights I would love to take them off your hands.

 

[MitchellB]

This morning I took out the pressure relief value from under the tractor as suggested by Soundguy. I wasn't sure what to expect, but I did finally locate a few paragraphs in my book about how to take it out. I had poured some diesel fuel down inside of the tractor it several days ago and and drained and blew out all that with my air hose, so I think the inside tank was as clean as I could get it without taking it apart. The valve was not real dirty, but I cleaned it up and put new o-rings on it from an o-ring kit I had. The only thing I noticed that I did not like was it seems someone had put a drop of spot weld on top of the slotted screw in the top end. Luckily, it was not fused very well and broke off without much prying or penetration. I assume it was put there to prevent the screw head from backing out (or going in). I took the screw, spring assembly and ball out to clean, but when I put it back together, just placed a drop of lok-tight on the treads to hopefully keep it from moving before I put it all back in the tractor. Filled the tank up with 2 gallons of UTF from Tractor Supply.

I think I am on hold for a few days, until my extra injectors and pressure tester arrive. It is a shame too, because the weather around here is fantastic for this late in the month of October and it is great to be working outside.

By the way, I had a place online quote me a price on 4 little copper washers for the injectors; $55. They're copper, not gold! I'm still looking.

wmonroe, I've had a lot of compliments and lusting for those wheel weights. I don't know that I really need them for what little work I plan for this tractor, but until I get some time in the saddle to see what this heavy 861D can do compared to my little 8N that I've used so many years, I guess I'll keep them on there for now.

I do remember once getting my 8N bogged down to the rear axle in black mud pulling a trailer of wood behind it, so I imagine this heavy 861 would have sunk even deeper. I pulled the 8N out with a come-along chained to a tree (without the trailer attached). Not so sure I could have done that as easily with weighted 861D.

By the way, the guy I bought this from claims that after he had the fuel pump serviced, he was told to crank it every week or so, to prevent the diesel fuel pump from having problems. I had thought that was one of the advantages to diesel was being able to let them sit unused for long periods of time without problems. ?????