Building a "Log Horse?"

[Garandman]

I have a number of logs in lengths from 6' to 15' and diameter of 8" to 16" that I need to buck into firewood length for splitting. Right now I pick them up with pallet forks, mark the cuts, then cut off one end then the other until I have 4-6' left. Then I have to lower it onto cut pieces to finish the cuts.

Anyone make a "Log Horse" that I could lower the log into and cut it there? I'm wondering how big and heavy I need to make it.

 

[Mendonsy]

I made one out of 2x4's a few years back. It was just four 3' boards forming an X at both ends and two more connecting them together. It would work for your 4-6' pieces, but was not strong enough for the big logs.

 

[oosik]

I made the same thing as Mendonsy, only I used 6" X 6" timbers to create the X. I did this because I found that raising the log kept the chain saw out of the dirt and reduced the number of time per day I had to resharpen. On really big stuff - 18" up to 34" - I would roll the log up on smaller cross-layed logs with the tractor. While it was always fun to fall and cut up the "really big stuff" - the problems presented in working them into useable firewood were a real pain in the butt.

 

[s219]

AKA "saw buck" -- I made one from scrap 2x4 lumber when we were building our house. I don't have any pictures, but basically, make two identical assemblies like this:



Then cross these two assemblies into an X and nail or bolt about halfway up. After that, I nailed some additional bracing across the bottoms to keep the X open, but left the tops open to allow access. Also added some horizontal bracing just below the crossed part. Basically, stiffen as needed for your anticipated use. Mine is beefy enough that I can dump 4' logs in from my front bucket. Sometimes I will dump in 2-3 at a time if they are skinny (more care required when cutting).

Standard lumber OK for verticals, but I used pressure treated for bottom. The spacing of the verticals should be set to whatever makes sense for your typical log length, knowing you will cut on the side of the verticals -- or space then wider if you have a short bar on your chainsaw and need to get in closer. You may want to add more verticals that would support your cut rounds, depending on how you like to cut.

Offhand, I think my vertical pieces were 4-5' long to give the desired height when crossed, so that I don't have to stoop over when cutting. I'd estimate that the crossed point is about 30" high. I made the sawbuck about 4' wide and spaced for 16" cuts.

I do remember seeing some plans on the internet, but they were somewhat limited to that person's vision/workflow (for instance, what works for a short person would give me a backache). So start with the basic idea in my sketch and dimension it accordingly.

 

[s219]

I had to go out to the woodpile, so here are a couple pics.

View attachment 406258 View attachment 406259

Upon closer examination, it looks very much like what any framer would do with scrap 2x4 lumber and a nail gun, so definitely adapt to your materials/tools.

 

[Xfaxman]

Lots of ideas here: https://www.google.com/search?hl=en...sedr...0...1ac.1.60.img..7.4.2821.U1AdICrwGgA

 

[Baby Grand]

I have a number of logs in lengths from 6' to 15' and diameter of 8" to 16" that I need to buck into firewood length for splitting. Right now I pick them up with pallet forks, mark the cuts, then cut off one end then the other until I have 4-6' left. Then I have to lower it onto cut pieces to finish the cuts.

Anyone make a "Log Horse" that I could lower the log into and cut it there? I'm wondering how big and heavy I need to make it.

Funny you should ask! I use a classic sawbuck, like Mendonsy described, that I built from old growth doug-fir 2x4s about 20 years ago, but lately the cut from one end, cut from the other end dance has started to get old. I was thinking about adapting this idea to my 3pt forks:

Using some 2x2 1/4" wall tube, some 6" channel and some 1/4" plate I think I could knock something like this together in an afternoon:

 

[Leejohn]

I use this when I want to cut all day.

 

[s219]

I use this when I want to cut all day.

Now *that* is a sawbuck!

 

[EddieWalker]

I use this when I want to cut all day.

This is the nicest I've ever seen!!!! Very well thought out and something that should last forever.

I just cut about three quarter of the way through the log all the way down the length of the log, then roll it over and cut through from the other side to get my rounds. Unlike most people, I like my rounds to be about a foot long. I also like to split them pretty small. I've found that I can get the fire going faster and warm the house quicker with smaller pieces of wood. Once my wood stove is warmed up, it doesn't take very much wood to keep the house warm.

Eddie

 

[Xfaxman]

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Using some 2x2 1/4" wall tube, some 6" channel and some 1/4" plate I think I could knock something like this together in an afternoon:

That looks like a good idea Jim and would be easier to use with a hydraulic top link. :thumbsup:

 

[oldpilgrim]

those X frames used to be everywhere when I was a kid. We, and everyone else, had 55 gal drums of fuel oil sitting in them...usually to fire the pot heater in the kitchen stoves. We had a kerosene burner for a hot water heater supplied by one.

 

[Baby Grand]

That looks like a good idea and would be easier to use with a hydraulic top link. :thumbsup:

Thanks, Dennis - and exactly what I was thinking, regarding the hydraulic top link, since that's also a key part of making the 3pt forks really useful.

Since I already use the 3pt forks to manage my firewood on pallets, keeping the 3pt forks on makes a lot of sense for my operation. Something that I could slide the forks into when I have a need for it, then slide it off when I'm done and not have to deal with hitching and unhitching implements would really save me some daylight.

It really wouldn't be too much additional effort to put a pair of hitch pins on the sides and a top link clevis on it to make it a stand-alone 3pt implement, too. Flexibility being the mother of utility.

Thinking about using it - it would really need a pair of nuts/bolts/handles to the tops of the channels to secure it to the forks - same way clamp on bucket forks do.

 

[Buggs67]

This is the nicest I've ever seen!!!! Very well thought out and something that should last forever. But you have to have something to lift the log into it.

I just cut about three quarter of the way through the log all the way down the length of the log, then roll it over and cut through from the other side to get my rounds. This has been my method for 20 years (no tractor) in the woods. I then split on the spot with my log splitter (pulled by one quad), load into the trailer on the other quad and haul out of the woods.
Eddie

See my comments above. Wish I bought my tractor 10 years ago.

 

[deerseeker001]

I also made mine out of 6x6s works great.

I made the same thing as Mendonsy, only I used 6" X 6" timbers to create the X. I did this because I found that raising the log kept the chain saw out of the dirt and reduced the number of time per day I had to resharpen. On really big stuff - 18" up to 34" - I would roll the log up on smaller cross-layed logs with the tractor. While it was always fun to fall and cut up the "really big stuff" - the problems presented in working them into useable firewood were a real pain in the butt.

 

[Parkanzky]

I looked hard at the cantilever designs from the posts above and was nearly ready to purchase this: Forest Master 80-934 Ultimate Saw Horse

But I recently cut down a pine tree that was about 20" in diameter. I walked down both sides with my chainsaw and cut a broad V-shaped piece out of the length of it. Now, I just set the logs I want to buck onto that. If they're very heavy, I can put them there with the forks. Otherwise, it's pretty easy to lift one end on and then the other.

I love buying new tools, but in the end I decided that sometimes the simple solution is the best.

 

[Parkanzky]

I should also say that when I was cutting on the ground, I was completely dulling a chain after a long day of cutting even though I was rolling the logs and trying to be pretty careful not to get into the dirt. Now, it seems like my chains are going to stay sharp forever. I have saved more in cutting speed and reduced sharpenings than I waste moving the logs to cut them.

I like this over the commercial options because I don't feel guilty leaving it sitting out on the ground all the time and if I ever wear this one out or want one somewhere else in the woods, I can make another in five minutes with my chainsaw.

 

[bcp]

Lots of these cheap in thrift stores. Take off the swinging foot pieces, drop your log in, and saw. You could have several in line for long logs.



Bruce

 

[Mendonsy]

I use this when I want to cut all day.

The only problem with that is the steel. You have to be really careful not to touch it with the saw. It will ruin a chain much faster than dirt.
I had a steel one for a while, but I found that sooner or later I would stop paying attention and hit the steel with the saw.

 

[Leejohn]

I only done it one time and that was the 1st time I used it. I made it 6 or 7 years ago. My back sure does like it, just for one or two logs I don't use it.