Buying Advice Cabela's selling Compact Tractors

[MinnesotaEric]

I don't have a table, but I have a buddy who runs the laser at his uncle's shop. I provide dimensioned chicken scratches and he bangs out some really nice parts. Despite being able to code in WAF, I'm virtually worthless on CAD and prefer drawings when I need to go that far.

Belly guards are something I intend to get around to doing when I bring the machine home to my shop. I'm not sure when that'll be. I have the road project going on up north, and I have a lot of cutting and moving wood to do for that.

I've got SSQD's and will have a dedicated third function valve (the walvoil that the power beyond plug goes to - which arrived today). I am kinda debating that decision though. If I did a diverter, it wouldn't impact my use any more or less than moving my hand to a different control lever. I have a diverter for the rear SCV and will use that additional connection for my hydraulic top link (working on welding the new eyelet on it right now).

I have a true third function and like that i simply have buttons on my joystick to hit to move the third function in and out/up and down/side to side/whatever is attached. With hydraulics, the thing that is easiest to move always moves first unless the total amount of fluid available (gpm) is more than what any one function can accept. In other words, if more than one function is asking for fluid, the easiest to move function will move before the harder to move function, so curl moves before loader lifting, for example. For this reason a diverter isn't that bad on lower flowing tractors, but still not as intuitive to use because the same movement does two different functions depending on the switch setting. On a true third function everything does its own thing and so that is a slicker set-up.

Deere offer a 3rd function or a diverter set up for your 65e?

 

[Jim Timber]

I'm sure they do, but I'm not sure I'm willing to cough up the money for it.

 

[schmism]

Just got a cabelas catalog for widlife and land management in the mail today.... There new tractors are heavly featured (in like half the catalog)

First question i had was who was makeing them...

 

[GreenCamo]

TYM manufactures the tractors - Woods for the implements (loaders, backhoes, tillers, disks, blades, etc.) and Titan USA for the tires/wheels

 

[stingray1]

Back on my feet....still going a little slow. I am off all my restrictions, but the neurosurgeon told me not to go crazy....like swing a hammer or anything.....well what does that mean? I have been on the tractor a little, but the bumps just kill me....wonder if they have a tractor with a suspension :laughing:

I don't want to totally hijack the thread....one pic of the "work" they did on me....I have a copy of this arrangement in the lower back more or less.

View attachment 416894

I've been putting this off for around 3 yrs.I hope you heal up and have no problems.

 

[IslandTractor]

Some people may not trust a off brand like TYM but trust a name like Cabela's. IMO.

True but if Cabela's has never sold tractors and doesn't have an experienced service dept or parts dept you might as well buy a new tractor from LLBean. Great brand but no experience in the tractor world.

 

[IslandTractor]

I have a true third function and like that i simply have buttons on my joystick to hit to move the third function in and out/up and down/side to side/whatever is attached. With hydraulics, the thing that is easiest to move always moves first unless the total amount of fluid available (gpm) is more than what any one function can accept. In other words, if more than one function is asking for fluid, the easiest to move function will move before the harder to move function, so curl moves before loader lifting, for example. For this reason a diverter isn't that bad on lower flowing tractors, but still not as intuitive to use because the same movement does two different functions depending on the switch setting. On a true third function everything does its own thing and so that is a slicker set-up.

Deere offer a 3rd function or a diverter set up for your 65e?

Run hydraulics from your rear remotes and you get a "third function" without spending and extra $700 or so. Takes about twenty minutes to rig once you have appropriate length hoses with fittings and a handful of zipties. If you can efficiently drive a four on the floor transmission, you can learn just as easily to reach for the rear remote valve to control the grapple or other implement.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

Run hydraulics from your rear remotes and you get a "third function" without spending and extra $700 or so. Takes about twenty minutes to rig once you have appropriate length hoses with fittings and a handful of zipties. If you can efficiently drive a four on the floor transmission, you can learn just as easily to reach for the rear remote valve to control the grapple or other implement.

I made my own 3rd function including hard lines on my loader because I work in the woods and lines running from the rear would get ripped off as well as use one set of my three rear remotes that I need for other things. Moreover, I don't want to move my hand from the loader joystick to grab a rear remote, and if I installed electric over hydraulic valves on the rear SCVs to get the function on the loader joystick, then I should do the job the right way.

 

[IslandTractor]

I made my own 3rd function including hard lines on my loader because I work in the woods and lines running from the rear would get ripped off as well as use one set of my three rear remotes that I need for other things. Moreover, I don't want to move my hand from the loader joystick to grab a rear remote, and if I installed electric over hydraulic valves on the rear SCVs to get the function on the loader joystick, then I should do the job the right way.

I used rear remotes to control the grapple on my CK20. I cleared about five acres of brush without ever snagging the hydraulic lines under the tractor. Those lines were 1/2" and simply ziptied as close to the bottom of the operator station as I could manage before bending up the FEL post.

My DK40se has a diverter valve that frankly I don't like as much as the rear remote set up. It is a little too easy to get out of synch with the button pushing and joystick movements so I sometimes inadvertently dump or open the grapple unintentionally. Not a big problem but not as smooth as with the rear remote. Taking your hand off the joystick to reach for the remote lever becomes automatic within a couple hours. Really just as natural as dropping your hand from the steering wheel of a car and reaching for the gearshift on the floor. Couldn't be easier and you eliminate another set of expensive valves and electric lines.

I would encourage folks to try the rear remote set up before investing time and money on diverter or third function. Put the $400-500 if you do it yourself or up to $1000 to have the dealer install a third function valve towards a new implement instead. If you decide you don't like the rear remote setup, all the quick connects can be reused for the diverter/third fxn and a quick trip to your local hydraulic shop can get the lines recut to appropriate lengths with new end fittings to reuse as well. Virtually nothing is wasted.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

I used rear remotes to control the grapple on my CK20. I cleared about five acres of brush without ever snagging the hydraulic lines under the tractor. Those lines were 1/2" and simply ziptied as close to the bottom of the operator station as I could manage before bending up the FEL post.

My DK40se has a diverter valve that frankly I don't like as much as the rear remote set up. It is a little too easy to get out of synch with the button pushing and joystick movements so I sometimes inadvertently dump or open the grapple unintentionally. Not a big problem but not as smooth as with the rear remote. Taking your hand off the joystick to reach for the remote lever becomes automatic within a couple hours. Really just as natural as dropping your hand from the steering wheel of a car and reaching for the gearshift on the floor. Couldn't be easier and you eliminate another set of expensive valves and electric lines.

I would encourage folks to try the rear remote set up before investing time and money on diverter or third function. Put the $400-500 if you do it yourself or up to $1000 to have the dealer install a third function valve towards a new implement instead. If you decide you don't like the rear remote setup, all the quick connects can be reused for the diverter/third fxn and a quick trip to your local hydraulic shop can get the lines recut to appropriate lengths with new end fittings to reuse as well. Virtually nothing is wasted.

Rear remotes may be cheap and good enough for snow plows and simple stuff, but not for things that require rapid coordination and timing of loader functions with the third function. Here I am operating a Kubota M135X with the plow functions slaved to the rear remotes. I'm proficient, and it stinks in comparison to having everything on a joystick loader control which is why my equipment is set up with a 3rd function as electric over hydro buttons on the joystick.