rekees4300
Elite Member
Ditto ... been using one of these for a couple years. A high quality product that does the job. :thumbsup:
Chainsaw Sharpener Advice
- Thread starter TJP89
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Ditto ... been using one of these for a couple years. A high quality product that does the job. :thumbsup:
cat fever
Elite Member
I have used nothing but the Stihl brand grinder that you connect to a battery. 40 years and counting, it has a line to show you the angle to grind at. Takes a few minutes and is as good as new. Never leave home without it when getting firewood.
gsganzer
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I'm interested to hear what you didn't like about the Timberline. I've only had mine for around 6 months, but I can't think of a simpler more effective sharpening tool. I used to hand file when I logged full-time, but now as an occasional weekend warrior, my skills at hand filing have suffered and the Timberline has been a great alternative. Especially with the portability to use it in the field.
clemsonfor
Super Member
my nothern model (same maker as the timberline) had the head pin fall off. They replaced it as it was only like a few days old.
OP
TJP89
Veteran Member
First of all, thanks for all the info. I'm really looking into the timberline now, or maybe just a jig.
cat fever, I looked for the stihl brand grinder you mentioned, and haven't seen anything like it. Can you give me a link to it?
cat fever
Elite Member
Ya right, I'm the most computer retarded person on the web.
I would assume any Stihl dealer would have them. That's where I bought a new one just a couple years ago when I bought a new saw. It was like 30-40 bucks and its so easy to use.
The one on the left is the old one. Still works but has a broken housing. The right one is the new one, in the close up you can see the lines that you line up with the bar. Only takes a second or two on each tooth.
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crazyal
Super Member
I use a hand file (free hand) if in the woods and a dremel back at the house. I have a HF one somewhere, didn't like it, it took too much off. I rarely carry a spare chain with me in the woods, never needed it. So I would rather not remove the bar to take the chain off to sharpen it. I've thought about getting a bar mounted Oregon electric sharpener but I'm not sure if I would use it enough to justify the cost.
lostcreekranch
Super Member
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I found these diamond sharpening bits on Amazon. Bought set of the 5/32" two years ago for $10 and still using the first two. One is installed in a corded Dremel Tool and the in a cordless Dremel Tool. #3 and #4 still in the package. I never had great luck with the stone type bits as they wore down pretty quickly and broke a lot.
Anytime Tools 5/32" Diamond Chainsaw Sharpener Burr 1/8" Shank, 4 Pack: Cutting Burs: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
You can order these in all of the popular sizes.
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Anytime Tools 5/32" Diamond Chainsaw Sharpener Burr 1/8" Shank, 4 Pack: Cutting Burs: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
You can order these in all of the popular sizes.
Sent from my iPad using TractorByNet
lostcreekranch
Super Member
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- Austin County, Texas
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- NH TL-100A with Bush Hog 5045 FEL, WR Long 3rd function, LS XR4155HC w/FEL, WR Long 3rd Function.
Duplicate.
DB Pilot
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I've tried several sharpener guides and rotary drill sharpeners. :confused3: When I found the Granberg bar mounted sharpener it did a better job (professional quality) than anything I had tried before. I highlighted the small numbers for angle and tilt. That helps a lot. With any tool there is a learning curve but very soon set up becomes second nature. :thumbsup: Half the time I don't adjust the depth gauge and just file equal passes for each tooth. :2cents: Also I reshaped a used chain for ripping with my Alaskan chainsaw mill using the Granberg sharpener. I think it was 5 degrees and same 10 degree tilt. Worked very well and quick to make. Although I would not reconfigure a brand new chain. Only cut Oak, Cherry and very hard Maple with the homemade chains. They work! If I find some pine I will know how fast I can rip boards as Oak can really slow you down.
With any tool there is a learning curve but very soon set up becomes second nature. :thumbsup: Half the time I don't adjust the depth gauge and just file equal passes for each tooth. :2cents: Also I reshaped a used chain for ripping with my Alaskan chainsaw mill using the Granberg sharpener. I think it was 5 degrees and same 10 degree tilt. Worked very well and quick to make. Although I would not reconfigure a brand new chain. Only cut Oak, Cherry and very hard Maple with the homemade chains. They work! If I find some pine I will know how fast I can rip boards as Oak can really slow you down.