New (to me) YM240D

[Todd8665]

Would you mind posting a few photos showing how your loader arms connect to your bucket? I'd like to see what it 'should' look like.

Todd8665 made a good suggestion about testing the pump by putting a load on the rear 3PT hitch. I'll do that today and confirm that the pump is working correctly. The next step in getting the FEL sorted out will be repairing the dripping cylinder and possibly any others that are leaking internally. Once I'm convinced that the hydraulics are operating correctly, I'll have to address that bucket. It's ridiculous really! But if I can get it to lift 1/3 or 1/4 of a full bucket I can at least use it while I figure out how I'd like to get it setup.

Ideally, and if money and time were no object, I'd get that front pump going and plumb it with some quick-connect hoses for simpler removal and put a skid-steer quick attach plate on the front with a 48" bucket. Is that absurd? My PTO hydraulic pump, reservoir, and filter are officially up for trade!

I've got a 48" 3Pt snowblower that I trade you for that PTO pump. Was assembled from spare parts and blows snow about as well as a a lawnmower...

 

[California]

I found this post buried on the site in another thread. Makes me want to get some green paint for mine.

That's my second link in post #8 above. I thought you would like it.

Would you mind posting a few photos showing how your loader arms connect to your bucket? I'd like to see what it 'should' look like.

Here's detail cropped out of a different photo, taken moving lumber last Saturday.

Incidentally the 'chain hooks' along the top of the bucket are simply Cold Shuts, chain repair links, that I bolted to existing holes. I intended to weld on proper chain hooks some day but these work fine, for chain and also to wrap rope or bungees around.

View attachment 440152

 

[clemsonfor]

Would you mind posting a few photos showing how your loader arms connect to your bucket? I'd like to see what it 'should' look like.

Todd8665 made a good suggestion about testing the pump by putting a load on the rear 3PT hitch. I'll do that today and confirm that the pump is working correctly. The next step in getting the FEL sorted out will be repairing the dripping cylinder and possibly any others that are leaking internally. Once I'm convinced that the hydraulics are operating correctly, I'll have to address that bucket. It's ridiculous really! But if I can get it to lift 1/3 or 1/4 of a full bucket I can at least use it while I figure out how I'd like to get it setup.

Ideally, and if money and time were no object, I'd get that front pump going and plumb it with some quick-connect hoses for simpler removal and put a skid-steer quick attach plate on the front with a 48" bucket. Is that absurd? My PTO hydraulic pump, reservoir, and filter are officially up for trade!

if that resivoir is full of fluid and the tractor could lift it on the 3pt then your main pump is fine . the weight of that tank and the fluid would be enough to see if its connected and not just barely working from a sheared key with just the wirling motion moveing the pump.

You can stand on your lift arms and pull the 3pt lever to see if its working . It wont lift you if its bad.

 

[clemsonfor]

i would also just torch off the current bucket to a reasonable size. i doubt that you will find someone with a yanmar bucket just laying around. Maybe one for a similar sized tractor that you could adapt or if you went to a tractor junkyard but those are not common and they usually just sit in peoples yards wehn they die.

 

[woolyAcres]

I've got a 48" 3Pt snowblower that I trade you for that PTO pump. Was assembled from spare parts and blows snow about as well as a a lawnmower...

Thanks. I'm still trying to figure out what I've got in this current setup and I want to test it somehow to confirm it works. From the sound of it the fellow I bought the tractor from didn't use it, only kept it on as ballast.

RE: snowblower. I've got a front-mount blower for my other 'tractor', a Wheel Horse 520. Between that and my box blade I hope I'm covered for winter; and also hoping we don't have another winter like this last one! If I ever get this bucket sorted out I could also move snow with that.

 

[woolyAcres]

Here's detail cropped out of a different photo, taken moving lumber last Saturday.
View attachment 440152

Thanks. That's slightly different from mine. Your loader appears to pin directly onto the bucket. Mine pins onto a plate to which that bathtub of a bucket is bolted.

When you rebuilt your cylinder, how did you know what size o-rings, etc to get? Did you dismantle it first or were you able to get part numbers for the cylinders before pulling them apart? I can see why repaing it for $10 is a good deal, but for $165 why not just replace it?

 

[woolyAcres]

As per Todd8686 and clemsonfor's suggestion I went ahead and got something heavy on the back. See photo. Best I can figure that rotary cutter weighs more than 500lbs. The tractor did pick it up before running out of throw on the lift. The rear wheel of the brush hog would only ever get a few inches off the ground. I took that cutter for a spin as well and although it worked, my gut feeling is that was a bit much for the tractor. That's a pretty solid 5' cutter. I switched that cutter out for a box blade at lunch and left the 3PT hitch in the raised position. The loader was also left in the 'up' position. I'll check on it later today to see how far things have slipped. I'm sure the FEL will drop because I could actually see it falling just standing there. That's not hard to believe given the state of the lift arms.

I've got a lot to learn about hydraulics but my guess is that the hydro pump that currently runs the 3PT hitch and FEL is working. Will trouble with the loader cylinders cause the rear to drop as well?

 

[woolyAcres]

@California-

I see in another thread you replaced the loader control. How did you figure out what flow rates, etc you needed?

Maybe I should start an "FEL rebuild thread" over in hydraulics. I'm used to my father's New Holland 16TL loader which has a single joystick control. Something like that would be possible right?

Here's what I'd love to get my FEL to look like at the front. That would allow me to easily get a smaller bucket and use his pallet forks (for small loads of course).

 

[woolyAcres]

An issue that I noticed when running the brushhog involves the PTO engagement. When seated, below my left leg is a lever for the 540/1000RPM PTO. There doesn't seem to be much movement between the positions and when I move this lever up and down trying to go from 540-N-1000 I notice a lever under my right foot wiggling up and down. I believe this lever to be the diff-lock. Are these two related? Should movement in one be apparent in the other?

Thanks

 

[California]

For the first cylinder they told me the rod was bent so they went ahead and straightened it. They said that's why it wore out the end cap seal, and the straightening was why the bill was double what I thought was a firm price.

I hadn't noticed that but a bent rod is possible, the end cap where the rod goes in contacts the loader arm at full-dump position and the concave dings on the back side of the bucket indicate the bucket must have been turned forward and used to ram things in the past. So bending parts is possible.

Anyhow I didn't see a bend in the second cylinder's rod and its problem was leaking down, not the end seal, so I just disassembled it and took in the soft parts. They went right to the shelf and pulled what I needed without looking in a book. Apparently there is a limited range of possible choices and these cylinders are industry-standard so their first guess for seals was correct.

For the hydraulic components of your rig you might want to post questions in TBN's Hydraulics forum. I got a lot of good advice when I went to replace my loader valve. It lifted ok but dribbled on my shoe under extreme loads. It was clearly worn out and I learned there aren't replaceable parts in those. In fact somebody in the Hydraulics forum might want to buy your surplus system, that's where the specialists hang out.

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Added: just noticed your latest posts.
The stock Yanmar hydraulic pumps put out 4~5 gallons per minute (I think that's gallons they are rated in) and the existing loader hoses were I think 3/8 ID. So based on advice from the hydraulics forum somebody suggested a specific control to meet these criteria. That one is rated abut 9gpm and comes preset to the 2200 psi that Yanmar uses. I think these criteria are industry-standard for a tractor hydraulic system comparable in capacity to Ford 8N etc and the valve I took off was in fact widely used on 8N's back in the day. So choice of a valve fell in a narrow range of widely used replacement parts.

Then I cheapskated two features: Saved $100 for two loader sticks instead of single joystick. Saved another $100 by choosing the variant that lacks 'recirculation' or whatever it's it called that doubles bucket dump speed. I'm not trying to set production records. Moving that lumber or water tank is more typical of my loader projects.

The valve was available several places with a few weeks lead time then I found Amazon had it on the shelf to ship immediately. If you've looked through that thread you can skip over all my know-nothing questions and get right to the solution I ended up with, after a lot of good advice.

One point - there is a specialist there who insists plumbing a loader in series ahead of the 3-point will destroy the loader valve. Mine ran fine in series for 30 years and the new valve remains in perfect condition after a couple years use. The point to remember is don't lift the bucket and the 3-point at the same time, this can double hydraulic loads momentarily and does risk damage. Thoughtful sane operation respecting the limits of the equipment will avoid problems.

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re that Quick Attach plate - for myself I would design for minimal weight up front, ie bucket directly linked to the arms and cylinders, to not waste lift capacity on complex and heavy connectors. These are small light tractors after all. YMMV.