PTO shaft "stub" broke off

[SPYDERLK]

Have you told us how it happened yet? Inquiring minds want to avoid a similar experience

Hes holding it back til the very end. ... Its a very strong piece of steel. I have cocked PTO shafts sideways and broken the yokes w/o any apparent stub damage. -- The shafts are made and held differently on various tractors. There may may be a stress riser at the root of OPs, and a partial failure developed over time ... then a big stress and snap. :confused3:

 

[k0ua]

We are all just being polite and waiting for the payoff at the end. Something had to have happened, and I think the OP is not all that keen on "fessing up" about it.

 

[KenB2920]

We are all just being polite and waiting for the payoff at the end. Something had to have happened, and I think the OP is not all that keen on "fessing up" about it.

Lol, I will spill the beans when it's fixed. I promise.

 

[David_Kb7uns]

Lol, I will spill the beans when it's fixed. I promise.

Hurry up I am running out of popcorn, busted the right brake case once on the L3130, that was real fun.....

 

[dieselcrawler]

I rebuilt the pto shaft on an L2850 this spring, not hard. Get the new staking nut, tighten to specs, then a cold chiseled or punch works just fine to smash the new nut lip into a groove (much like a keyway).



It's as simple as removing the 4 bolts that hold the pto cover, and pull it out. Fluid may drain, the one I was working on was already drained when I pulled it. Be careful the coupling collar either stays on the shaft inside, or comes out with the pto shaft, it is just straight splines, and you don't want to have it loose in the bottom of the diff case.

 

[KenB2920]

I rebuilt the pto shaft on an L2850 this spring, not hard. Get the new staking nut, tighten to specs, then a cold chiseled or punch works just fine to smash the new nut lip into a groove (much like a keyway). http://s699.photobucket.com/user/wv...oads/2015-04-24 11.40.13_zpsu86dmddu.jpg.html It's as simple as removing the 4 bolts that hold the pto cover, and pull it out. Fluid may drain, the one I was working on was already drained when I pulled it. Be careful the coupling collar either stays on the shaft inside, or comes out with the pto shaft, it is just straight splines, and you don't want to have it loose in the bottom of the diff case.

This is great advice. Did you by chance take any photos when you redid yours?

 

[dieselcrawler]

I looked thru the pix I took, (few hundred) but few were of the pto rear shaft. That project included replacing trans case, and broken pto gears, clutch, steering gear box seals and universal joints, final drives removed for axle seals. Spent about a month on it, 40 hours a week.






Where's all the gears?!?!

 

[KenB2920]

Wow, excellent !!! Thank you...

Was thinking (not trying to reinvent the wheel), but instead of staking could it be torqued down then welded into place? Just a thought. It would the extra weight cause it to be out of balance and premature wear. Just a thought.

 

[dieselcrawler]

My earlier post #35, picture clearly shows the nut, the groove, and edge of the nut I mashed into the groove with a punch, on the pto shaft.

The rear axle final drives use the same style of nut/groove, one I was able to heat, un-mash, remove, and reuse. The other, not so much. Threads on axle got buggered, nut destroyed. Cleaned up axle threads, and ordered a new nut.

 

[pmsmechanic]

I'm here for confession time. My guess is that something was really our of balance or the op turned to short with a heavy duty pto attached.